Headstamp Matching?

I have a lot of Starline .45 brass and have tried to keep them separate from my piles of mixed. Obviously sorting takes more time and I'm probably not good enough to tell the difference. Do any of you experienced shooters out there think it is worth the time to sort brass based on headstamps? If so, do you do it for accuracy or just because this sport tends to attract the Type-A anal types (myself included?).

I like to seperate by head stamp....the main reason being...brass verys in thickness...this will effect the consistency of you crimp....By how much?? cant really say...never check'd it....Ive got all my brass seperated...and I load as such....Brass also these days has 2 differnt size flash holes so just another reason to be picky I guess....

I have a seperate bin for match brass and practice brass. My match brass was 1000 once fired Speer and I keep that seperate simply because I can keep my brass seperate from everybody else at a match. Some guys put colored lines with a sharpie on their brass to keep theirs seperate, I just look for the Speer head stamp if an ocassional piece gets out of the brass catcher. My practice brass is mixture: S&B, Winchester, S&W, Federal, Remington, FCC Match, Blazer, TZZ, and I am sure some others. I have never had any feeding issues with the mixed brass nor have I thought I was having accuracy issues at the long line because of it. The only problem I have had with keeping match and practice brass seperate was when I would mistakenly dump a couple hundred of one in the bin of a thousand of the other and then have to go and seperate it.



Scott

I have 1000 Speer and 1000 WCC Match spent casings that I save for matches. I do not have the capability to test whether it's better and certainly can not shoot well enough to tell but it does in my opinion eliminate one possible variable.

not me. I just load whatever and shoot whatever. When all my shots go exactly to call, I'm pretty sure my ammo is going where the gun was pointed.

I shoot really good slowfires (low 90's is what I think is really good) so I thing it doesn't matter very much. I'm certain that the 7-10s 3-9s and the 5 that I shot was me, cuz I called all of those shots there.

It might matter when you start shooting clean slowfires, but, until then, mixed brass is ok. Spend more time dryfiring, making ammo, and practicing instead of sorting brass.

I have three bags of brass: Win, Fed, and all others combined. I can't honestly say I can see any difference between using one brand or mix-and-match. I segregate it only out of some twisted sense of and desire for orderliness. Tight groups, Bill.

I shoot all one brand of brass for matches. And mixed brass for training.

I have shoot many very good targets with both. Does it matter? To me

it does. Why? Because I believe that brass uniformatey makes a better

round, I think, maybe.



Dave C.

I think, maybe, you are correct. But then again...

Bill T.

I have large amounts each of Win and Federal and Rem brass. I rotate a batch exclusively for maybe 6-7 loadings then all goes in the same pot. I do keep Starline by itself for SF. I found that almost any BE load 3.8-4.0 with even yucky bullets will clean 25 yds. (If I can Look at my pix on the right. That is one rare time I had my act together. Felt good.

Lifes too short to fuss over brass. Unless it's Starline.

Nice target, Jack!
I use only Win brass, mostly Govt match from the '80s. I run them through a Forster case trimmer and re-size them using a .45 Colt sizing die. Seat bullets with a recessed plug. No bottle-necks and the amount of lead above the shoulder is consistent.

Roddy tuned my pistol. I think the issue is not with the ammo or gun.

The problem these days by not separating by headstamps can cause real issues as it did with me last season. After a 5 year layoff i resumed shooting and after having shots not go where i thought they should on many shots i did some research. I found that things had changed in the brass world in 5 years. I was using speer and federal, and starline. I tested my loads and zeroed my gun with starline loads, but the same load would shoot to a different point at 50yds with the speer and sometimes with the federal, The problem was the old federal was the same as starline and shot fine, the speer and some of the federal had bigger flash holes and the inside of the case had a bowl design to the bottom of the case, this caused different pressures and flash and a different point of impact. Now federal has moved one step farther, and have 45s with small pistol primers. My solution was to sell off all my brass and replace with starline.