Loads for 32 S&W Long with coated bullets

Load data and even bullet choices are pretty limited for the 32 SWL. No fear, I cast and coat my own. I'm working up loads for both a Pardini HP and a Smith & Wesson 16-4 and I want to use DEWC and HBWC bullets of 98-100 grain weight. I'm concentrating on loads for 25 yards since that it the farthest I shoot 99% of the time. I have molds from MP Molds for both and I size to .314" at this point. Has anyone come up with a load recipe that gives exceptional accuracy? I have been trying 231, Bullseye and TiteGroup powders so far and hope to try Clays, WST, N310 and others soon. The results so far have been promising with everything giving 5 in about an inch off the bags. Both guns will cut that in half with swaged HBWC's and that is what I'm trying to match or best with coated bullets.

1) I have found that coated bullets are not quite as accurate as standard bullets. Not enough to really matter, unless in tight competition.
2) I have NOT found any reload to be as accurate as any HBWC factory ammo
3) I have found that DEWC are no where near as accurate as HBWCs. 
"Perfectly" cast 97gn DEWCs gave me inconsistent groups of 1.60"-5.19" at 25 yards.
HBWCs gave me groups of 1.13-1.78" at 25 yards.
Factory Federal 98gn HBWC and Fiocchi 100gn HBWC factory ammo gives me 0.60-1.37" at 25 yards, with the average group size smaller with Federal.
Believe it or not, 1.3gn of Unique was my most accurate reloads.
Hornady 90gn HBWCs were not very good in my Benelli or Hammerli
4) Use minimum resizing (if guns will chamber unsized cases) of just the neck area where you need bullet tension.
5) Why dial in with heaviest bullets? Lighter bullets may be better in your guns.

Fairly accurate loads (though NOT as accurate as factory)
98-100gn HBWC, 1.6-1.8gn 231/HP38
Lapua 98gn HBWC, 1.7-1.9gn AA2
Lapua 98gn HBWC, 1.6-1.8gn Bullseye
98-100gn HBWC, 1.2-1.6gn Clays
98-100gn HBWC, 1.3-1.5gn N310 (work up from 1.0gn)
Cast 98gn DEWC, 1.7gn Red Dot

There are a lot of threads here on loads for the .32 S&W-L.  There is a long post of mine at the end of a thread here:  
https://www.bullseyeforum.net/t13896p25-32-swl-at-50-yds-vs-32-acp-at-50-yds

Id start by sizing to .315 if possible. Made a HUGE difference in my walther gsp. Other than that, 88gr "trash can" from accurate molds,1.7 bullseye, lots of crimp. The 315(top) and 314 groups are attached. Both were fired from a ransom rest at 50 yards. bullets were cast, weight sorted, coated (hitek), sized and loaded so all other factors were held as constant as possible
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Greetings,

Regarding the Hi-Tek coating...

I tested some coated bullets for a friend a while back.

They did shoot rather well; but, the odor while firing was quite obnoxious. Occasionally, my eyes would water from the fumes.

Perhaps it was the coating he used?

Do your coated bullets emit a foul odor during firing.

By the way, KUDOS to your casting efforts. Those groups are excellent.

With kind regards,

David

fc60 wrote:Greetings,

Regarding the Hi-Tek coating...

I tested some coated bullets for a friend a while back.

They did shoot rather well; but, the odor while firing was quite obnoxious. Occasionally, my eyes would water from the fumes.

Perhaps it was the coating he used?

Do your coated bullets emit a foul odor during firing.

By the way, KUDOS to your casting efforts. Those groups are excellent.

With kind regards,

David

Thanks Dave.

Id syggest to your friend to cook his bullets longer and/or hotter. My background in paint chemistry says some of the resin/crosslinker (catalyst) is burning off because it isn't fully reacted.

While there can be some odor, it is not tyoically noticeable, and never enough to make eyes water. I shoot on an indoor range with good ventilation, or in windy ND so fumes don't hang arround long in any case...

My experience is that the HiTech Supercoat does have a distinct odor. I personally use polymer powder coating that I buy from Smoke on the Cast Boolits forum. I use the "dry tumble" method of applying the powder. I don't notice the smell from this coating but when I'm around a shooter using commercially made HiTech bullets the smell is unmistakable. My lead levels are high enough already so if I'm going to do any indoor shooting, it will not be with bare lead bullets.

pergoman wrote:My experience is that the HiTech Supercoat does have a distinct odor. I personally use polymer powder coating that I buy from Smoke on the Cast Boolits forum. I use the "dry tumble" method of applying the powder. I don't notice the smell from this coating but when I'm around a shooter using commercially made HiTech bullets the smell is unmistakable. My lead levels are high enough already so if I'm going to do any indoor shooting, it will not be with bare lead bullets.

I started with Smokes powder, good stuff. Just takes too darn long to stand up bullets and ive never had anything but a big.glob.of.fuzed bullets when I try to bake them random. Thats why I went to hitek. Didn't think I'd like it... I was wrong... yes there is an oder, stringer if.your under cured, but life is a trade off...

A friend shot this group from his GSP today from a ransom rest at 50 YARDS. Same bullet/coating (.315) I used for the group earlier in this string...

While you're at it, try adding liquid tumble lube to your regular, non PC  bullets.

Lee liquid alox, rooster jacket, white label 45-45-10 or even Anchoseal emulsified wax.

I love the latter and now put it on everything...

bruce martindale wrote:While you're at it, try adding liquid tumble lube to your regular, non PC  bullets.

Sorry, ain't gonna do it... wouldn't be prudent, at this juncture...

i went to coatings to get away from lube that gums up everything...