Need dry fire target

Would like to start dry firing in the basement and can't seem to find what size target I should use.  I have 33 ft to work with.  Ive used reduced targets for my High-power stuff but not so lucky finding dimensions for Bullseye.  I start a league Monday for .22
 First time ever and would like to get some dry firing in this year.

Also pretty nervous as it's my first time trying any kind of Bullseye shooting.  Building myself a range box and on the prowl for an inexpensive spotting scope....

Thanks Gents

I dry fire in my basement reloading room at about 14 feet. I simply cut out the ten and X ring and taped it to the wall. I'm only working on trigger control, timing of the trigger break, and whether or not the dot moves at trigger break. IMO size of the target is not relevant as long as it is bigger than the dot.

This forum thread may be useful to you.

https://www.bullseyeforum.net/t7323-a-question-for-you-math-wizards

Outstanding!  Answered all my questions..However now my brain hurts...hahahahahahaha.

Thanks again Gents

Joe

I recommend 90% of your dry firing on a blank wall. The target is a distraction to breaking down most of the fundamentals. Glad to hear your dry firing!
Jon

+1 on blank wall

I agree that the vast majority of your dry firing should be at a blank wall.  However, I think a little should be done with a target.  Experiment with various size black circles which look about the same as your dot would look at the 50 yard black.  Might be the size of a nickle, maybe a quarter, you'll figure it out.  Just a little paper and a magic marker.
Phil

The SCATT professional software: http://www.scatt.com/file_download/143/scattpro-6.82.0-setup.exe(<= link free) has the ability to print targets for any distance.  Just select your target and the distance you want the target resized for.

You may have to load the NRA targets
NRA pistol targets for SCATT:
http://www.centershot.com/downloads/NRAPistolTgts.exe

- Dave

Thanks for the suggestions fellas.

As a first thought, if you're normally shooting a six inch target at 15 yards (45 feet, which I'll round off to 50 feet), and your dry-firing area is maybe 10 feet, just multiply six inches by the new distance divided by the range distance.

6" x  10/50 =  ______.

Do the math, and you'll get a new size.

If you have a computer and editing software, it would be useful to use a "blur" filter, to make the edges of the target look out-of-focus, which is what they're supposed to look like with iron sights.


Having said that, Jon's advice is FAR more useful.  Forget the target, and just use a blank wall, for all the reasons given above.  Most people I tell this to think it's silly advice, as how can you get better without having something to aim at?   :-)

(I used to think that - boy, was I wrong!)

Nowadays I like to do both, mostly aiming at a blank wall, but every so often using my photoshopped target simulating a B-8 target at 25 yards.

I believe blank wall or plain white paper dry firing is tremendously useful as has been stated. Even more so when using metallic sights, not a red dot. Learning to break the shot while maintaining perfect sight alignment is critical. The plain background works extremely well in learning to achieve this. Once this skill is achieved, applying it to a red dot equipped gun will yield enhanced results of trigger control, IMO. As for size of bullseye if required. Consider, converting yards to feet, feet to inches and simply make a black target the proportional size desired to simulate your normal shooting distance. The dot size however will remain a constant.


The trigger finger has the ability to erase all other perfectly executed fundamentals, the ability to make quality ammo give the results of a musket ball, and to make the precision pistol no more accurate than a rubber band gun. The trigger finger is the "eraser" or "maker" of good things at the target. Trigger control should be learned first. It is that important. My .02.

Awesome info guys.  Tomorrow is my first .22 bullsyey match at a local place that has it all winter long.  I'm pretty nervous but really looking forward to it.  Bad thing is it's at 5pm and I hope I can get off work in time.

You can do what I did...   forget it's a match, and just treat it as a practice session, and try to ignore your scores - just enjoy the shooting.  It was my first match, and for 90% of it, I was mostly having a good time.  

(I finished in the top 1/3 anyway, would have been worse I think if I was in a competitive mood.)

Well it was a 600 match and I ended up with 432.  My first 30 shots were not that hot.  The last 30 soooooo much better.  I mean miles better.  The last 30 shots I had nothing less then an 80 for each round.  I was thrilled and now I'm HOOKED BAD!!!!!

Congrats on 1st match.  I dry fire on blank target sheet and 10 meter air pistol target in my basement.

I use a 1" black pasty when firing my air pistol in the garage.  Distance is about 20'.

I dry fire while watching TV (I aim at the TV screen).  My practice involves focusing on the front sight (iron sights) and keeping the sights aligned during the trigger squeeze.  Grip is also part of that sequence.  I have been told by several (better) shooters that the target is a just a distraction.  I tend to believe them.


Edit: since you have 33 ft, a 10m (ISU or NRA) air pistol target will work.  Also, I have used a Celestron Landscout spotting scope (10x-30x) for 25 yard indoor use.  It's somewhat difficult to pick up .22lr with that scope when the shots are in the black against a black backstop.  But then, it's a ~$50 scope and optics is something that you get what you pay for.  My Kowa TSN-601 spotting scope is ~10x that cost and is a bottom of the line Kowa.  For a shooting box, the Celestrons seem to be what most buy - but it's not what I consider a good scope for lower light conditions.  Using higher end optics tends to distort one's opinion though.

My opinion - you would be better off aiming at a blank wall, no TV, no distractions, and pay attention to what happens to the sights when you press the trigger to fire.  If anything moves, in any way, even the slightest, you need to figure out what the sights are doing, and how to correct it.  Before you start, look up "Keith Sanderson's" post (easy to find) on how to dry fire.  He recommends cycles of one minute "on", then two minutes "off" to rest.  He also recommends that you start out with "holding drills" (read his article on that first).

Question - why do you think you do dry firing?  What is the purpose, as you see it?

i have a brand new I target system for 45 acp for sale google it for the details, 100.00 shipped.

DavidR- What are you selling?