Progress today

Jon Eulette wrote:Martin,
As a long time BE competitor, coach, and observer, I have made some observations. Most shooters expert and below hold too long and break shots later rather than sooner. The common result is a poor shot. Why? Fatigue from holding too long, psychological breakdown (damn this gun isn’t going off), forcing the shot to break, etc. Earlier breaking shot omits the fatigue issue. Starting squeeze before entering target bull and breaking it sooner prevents jerking trigger from holding too long ( in most cases). Another reason I prefer short roll trigger is because I can ‘feel’ it moving and ‘know’ I’m squeezing the trigger and ‘know’ it’s going to break ( prevents jerking trigger); chicken finger preventer. Long rolling triggers require much higher level of confidence to squeeze it and higher level of physical conditioning to hold pistol in position long enough to hold 10 ring without drooping low and breaking the shot. I call this two grouping; centered 10’s and low dropped shots. I cannot shoot a long roll. A medium roll is good for a newer shooter. But at some point graduation to shorter roll is necessary to break into higher classifications. Statistically if you hold longer you will not shoot a 10. Statistically if you hold to long you will not have good trigger squeeze. There are very few shooters who can hold long and shoot well. So from observations and personal experience I know that the odds are in my favor of shooting a 10 are greater if I break the shot sooner. So the shooter needs to develop their own timing on when is it best to break the shot for them. So keep track of how long shots are taking. Figure out the approximate time (2-3 seconds, etc) and try to stay in that framework. I find that I sometimes have an extremely early shot that could be an 9 or 8 at 12 o’clock. I will take that! It’s a good shot. It wasn’t jerked or drooped because I held too long. It had good trigger squeeze and my other fundamentals were good; just broke a little early. So the goal in my original post was to self test whether the earlier shots as opposed to holding longer were better. It also allows more consistently good breaking shots with no extra help from the trigger finger. Through good results it will improve your confidence and your trust of squeezing the trigger. It’s not for everyone, but what do you have to lose trying it for a while to see if you can break through a plateau.
Jon

chopper wrote:Ed, I'm trying to understand this null. In other words when I'm taking up the slack, I'm focusing on my steadiness (settle above black) this is my null period (usually about 4 seconds), trigger is pressured and bringing dot into black (bang). 
 I've been dry firing this: take up slack, dot is above black, trigger pressure  starts while I'm moving dot into black(about 3-4 sec) most hammer falls are low but most are centered vertically. I'm assuming the null is the last second of my 3-4 sec period.
Stan

Ed Hall wrote:

chopper wrote:Ed, I'm trying to understand this null. In other words when I'm taking up the slack, I'm focusing on my steadiness (settle above black) this is my null period (usually about 4 seconds), trigger is pressured and bringing dot into black (bang). 
 I've been dry firing this: take up slack, dot is above black, trigger pressure  starts while I'm moving dot into black(about 3-4 sec) most hammer falls are low but most are centered vertically. I'm assuming the null is the last second of my 3-4 sec period.
Stan

I might be misinterpreting your description, but let's try to work to a common theme.

I would suggest not settling above black, if it means being stationary at a point other than the bull.  You should raise the gun into your basic position and lower it to the black without staging anywhere.  During the lowering, you should capture your sight alignment and start the trigger as you approach the black.  As you enter the black, settle there as the shot happens.  As to the null(s), your hold will have movement that decreases and increases several times, if you were to wait long enough.  Each of those decreases in size represent what I'm calling a null.  The normal progression of nulls is that even though they are smaller than the rest of the hold, they increase in size, the more nulls you pass through.  That's why the earlier nulls are better to "shoot for."

thessler wrote:OK thanks Robert
Now that you say my way is a common starter way, I feel better about that. If others can make that transition to the faster shot,  I can. I'll keep at it.
Tom