Cost Comparison - .38 Special vs. .45 ACP

I'm considering getting a revolver to shoot targets with and will reload.  What are the costs associated?  Don't need to figure in a reloader, just ammo.
Thanks,
Jeff

If you discount the brass, which is probably a wash, since you'll be reloading both quite a few times, and stick with lead for both (let's say Zero brand 185 SWCHP VS 148 HBWC), cost for 45 rounds is around $0.14 a round, cost for 38 special is $0.11 per round. Difference in primer (none, really) and powder costs ($0.013 vs $0.009) is pretty minimal.

Dave

my suggestion, contact Magnus bullets about your bullet needs.

Use WST for either one.
any old primer will do.

I have lightened triggers in my 38 and 45 acp revolvers, and the only primer that will consistency ignite (shooting double action) is Federal.  Just FYI if you plan any trigger work.

Remmington for D/A

Federal also for DA

gregbenner wrote:I have lightened triggers in my 38 and 45 acp revolvers, and the only primer that will consistency ignite (shooting double action) is Federal.  Just FYI if you plan any trigger work.

I have no problem with CCI large primers on my lightened trigger SW .45 revolver in SA or DA.  Maybe back in the olden days it was different, but no longer.  I currently use Federal for small primers for .38/.357, but that is just because they were available, not because I have to.

I could not set off a friend’s borrowed ammo made with Winchester primers.

You need to take care that the primers are well set so no energy is lost by the hammer pushing them in before setting off.  The pistol also should have well tuned and polished lockwork to ensure that drag is not robbing energy.  Just changing springs alone may be a recipe for light strikes.

As for cost, when reloading a case the first time, it is not bad at all.  When I load that case a second time or more, I start considering reloading as making a profit vs. buying target grade ammo.  All my reloading equipment has paid for itself many times over and I have stopped caring what the cartridge components cost and only buy the best.  It only cost pennies more a round, so saving money with cheap powder and parts is not worth it.

 I have Ransom Rest tested and chronographed my handloads against several of the best commercial target ammos and they shoot equally well, so don’t buy the argument that you can’t load as good as a factory if you pay attention to what you are doing.

Thanks for the replies.  I've been "shopping" S&W revolvers and man, there are lots of different ones out there!  I'm going to borrow a friend's S&W book to help figure out all the -# models, when MIM parts came into play and which have locks.  Not sure if all of that matters for trigger pull or not.  This will be strictly a range gun, so not concerned about the lock becoming activated in a life-or-death situation.  Any suggestions for revolvers?  Not sure if the current crop of .45 ACP revolvers being marketed by Smith would work as well as an older one.  The 625s with the 5" barrels sure handle nice.  Also considering a Model 27.  Decisions, decisions.
Jeff

S&W Model 25-2, .45 acp. (2nd cylinder is .45 Colt)

Man, I have always wanted a Model 25.  I have a stainless 625-4 and like it a lot, but still...

Same in .38.  I have a Model 19 [.357], but am always finding myself looking for that just right Model 14\K38.

I just love that vintage look and quality of the older revolvers, yet I want to turn my Model 10 into a PPC barreled monster, go figure.   I love the ugly guns too.

If you're not tied to S&W, don't forget the old Colt OMM's. I don't have a lot of experience with revolvers, but I love mine. 1:14 twist, lock up should be damn tight.

JNW1 wrote:Thanks for the replies.  I've been "shopping" S&W revolvers and man, there are lots of different ones out there!  I'm going to borrow a friend's S&W book to help figure out all the -# models, when MIM parts came into play and which have locks.  Not sure if all of that matters for trigger pull or not.  This will be strictly a range gun, so not concerned about the lock becoming activated in a life-or-death situation.  Any suggestions for revolvers?  Not sure if the current crop of .45 ACP revolvers being marketed by Smith would work as well as an older one.  The 625s with the 5" barrels sure handle nice.  Also considering a Model 27.  Decisions, decisions.
Jeff

 I'm a fan of the 38sp. Easy to load, can be made extremely accurate and uses very little powder for target loads. I use 2 different S&W revolvers regularly and a third (Ruger match champion) on occasion. One S&W is a 70s model 15-3 that was a PPC gun at some point and the other is a 686-6 with a 7 shot cylinder, a lock and MIM parts. They are both very accurate, have great triggers (7 1/2# DA and 1 1/2# SA) and are 2 of the most reliable firearms I own. You would be very, very hard pressed to tell the difference in how they function.

 The current S&W revolvers work just as well as the older ones. Purists worry about MIM parts and locks. They are crabby and vocal about it but certainly in the minority.

James,
Thanks for the delightful pics. Very nice.
Mr. Kidney,
I appreciate your response. Getting a new 686 is probably the simplest thing for me to do. With older guns being more expensive, and not knowing what exactly to look for in a used revolver, a new gun would be the safest bet for me. Looked at a used performance center 686 Plus with the unfluted cylinder and giant orange front sight. It looks virtually new and maybe has 50 rounds through it. Nice balance.
Nephrologist?
Jeff

I might also suggest looking for a m14 from a -2 to a -7

The -5-7 will have the full underlug

JNW1 wrote: 
Mr. Kidney,

Nephrologist?
Jeff

 Jeff,
 Transplant recipient. 11-26-2003 got a kidney from one of my brothers. Everything since then has been bonus time

Glad to hear your kidney is running well. It’s nice when modern medicine works!

I have a 27-2 with a five inch barrel, nice but it is a heavy gun with most of the weight in the frame. If I was looking to shoot the revolver seriously I would look at a S&W model 14, there are a lot of them out there.  As for the Colt, I lust for a nice Officers model match, there are not a lot of gunsmiths that know how to work on them and there will be fewer in the future.

james r chapman wrote:I might also suggest looking for a m14 from a -2 to a -7

The -5-7 will have the full underlug

Why no -1, or no dash?

Regarding the older 14's (the ones with 5 screws) and the 14-1's. They are sweet guns and perfectly functional but the ones in 98% or better condition are starting to be collector items.  Also the earliest 14's also called K-38's had a lighter weight barrel.  There is a huge amount of info on the S&W forum from collectors and users  of these guns.

As has been said by many before Colt or S&W are the way to go. Ruger are OK too. The best value, all things considered will be a model 686 or 586 S&W revolver. The older K-38, early model 14's or even Model 19's and the like are good for sure, however, parts if needed are getting harder to find.

The 586 & 686 are built on the "L" frame and they are stronger (more durable) than the K frame guns of the K-38, M-14, M-15, M-19 family of guns.

Jack H wrote:

james r chapman wrote:I might also suggest looking for a m14 from a -2 to a -7

The -5-7 will have the full underlug

Why no -1, or no dash?

never lucky enough to have owned one...lol