If you have piano fingers and shoot a 1911, read this!

Gentlemen,
I have finally found the perfect grip and trigger setup for my hands for the 1911 and wanted to share. I have been running this for almost a year and have found it to be ergonomically perfect with slab grips.

You may have received advice in the past about different grips, trigger lengths, finger pad placement, etc, but remember that unless you have identical hands, the measurements/triggers etc that worked for them are probably not going to work for you. I have large but thin hands, and was just not satisfied with the usual options. Ergo grips are out of the question, due to EIC rules. Plus, it seems a lot of the best shooters are using slabs so why chase down that rabbit hole?

My palm span is 3.7", and my trigger finger is 4" from top of knuckle to fingertip. My thumb protrudes about 2.75" from my hand when held out in a L.

The following is the setup I use in ALL of my guns (22 conversion, ball gun, wad gun) for a perfect grip and finger placement.

I use a long trigger, a cmm thick 0.060" spacer under the right side grip only, a rounded low-pro springfield safety, arched checkered MSH, sharkskin grips and a very long, very heavy trigger shoe made by Frank S. This perfectly aligns my trigger finger, allowing a straight back trigger pull and a VERY consistent grip. I can settle into my perfect grip instantly, and when it isn't just right it is very obvious, there is not a complex process of setting and resetting my grip.

With this setup, I have nearly full contact of stippling/checkering on my hand, as evidenced by the red marks after a nice firm grip. It can't move, without either a very, very loose (like about to drop it) grip or tearing skin.

Some notes:
Low-pro safety allows my thumb to tuck in tight and assist in gripping.

Arched MSH gave me the best contact on my palm, and the least amount of shifting around under recoil.

Kensight Sharkskin grips give the best grip for slabs, bar none. I have tried everything, they are cheap and they work, even when oily, wet or bloody.

The shoe is very, very heavy and does not play well with light (under #3.5) triggers. It provides enough mass to the trigger bow that it will cause doubles with a #2. That cost me a miss on slowfire last year at the dist 22 match at perry. Still managed a 264 even with the miss on the first target. Now I shoot a #4 trigger on all my guns and don't worry about it.

Top view-finger is nice and perpendicular to trigger. No side-side binding feel with a long roll.


Top view other side. Notice my thumb digs in hard. I get red marks on it. If i relax thumb pressure, I get flyers.

Finger pad placement with slack taken out of trigger.

Finger pad placement with trigger all the way to rear, resting on stop. Total travel is around 0.2" from fully released to the stop. Finger stays optimally placed for entire travel.


Just wanted to share, and as always, your results may vary. Please don't rush to make changes if what you are currently using is working well for you.

SmokinNJokin wrote:I use a long trigger, a cmm thick 0.060" spacer under the right side grip only, 

Sounds like you have tuned your grips to fit right for you!

Just an FYI because you mentioned EIC rules.
They probably would never catch it but according to EIC rules the grips must be identical on both sides.
- Dave

Dave,
Thanks for pointing that out. I never considered a shim under the grip for that, but under the spirit and intention of the rules, I think I should remove it for EIC matches.

SmokinNJokin wrote:Dave,
Thanks for pointing that out. I never considered a shim under the grip for that, but under the spirit and intention of the rules, I think I should remove it for EIC matches.

Or add a spacer to the other side, you need to try both to see which one works best for you.
- Dave

dronning wrote:Or add a spacer to the other side, you need to try both to see which one works best for you.
- Dave

I certainly did try both, a spacer on the other side compromised my thumb placement and ability to grip with my fingertips. I can remove the one I have if needed, less thickness is better than too much I suppose.

I have a similar problem but went the other direction to solve. I spent this winter re-thinking my ortho grips. I shoot better scores with slabs but my finger position has to be forced. I found that by going wider on the grips while still keeping the feel of slabs I was able to find grips that let me get the finger position I need. I would also have the problem of not having enough room in the trigger guard if I moved the trigger any further forward. I also use Franks shoes but not super heavy ones so I get away with 2.5lb triggers on the 22 and 38. I have one set of the Nills originals but like the Sig clones just as well. I'm looking forward to this coming Sundays match to see how the plan comes together. They sure fit in the box better.

I had spacers once, and a separate set of thicker panels, failed EIC rules; had to change them. 20 years ago. Don't think they really care anymore...

SmokinNJokin wrote:Gentlemen,
I have finally found the perfect grip and trigger setup for my hands for the 1911 and wanted to share. I have been running this for almost a year and have found it to be ergonomically perfect with slab grips.

Andrew, I wish you had figured this out about a year earlier.

In the past year I have:
    added a trigger shoe
    swapped out the grip safety for one without the memory bump (much more comfortable)
    added sharkskin grips
    added an arched mainspring housing (2nd biggest difference for me after the sharkskin grips)
    added spacers

I now have a 45 that sits tight in my hand.  Sounds familar, doesn't it?