Walther X-ESSE Long Pistol 22 caliber Questions ?

Anyone have experience with these firearms? I think they are build by Hammerli?  Likes or dislikes. How is the trigger pull weight in pounds? Thanks

The Xesse is a Hammerli design currently made by Walther.. the original pistol was called the Trailside and was made by Sig when they owned Hammerli. The Xesse ia an upgraded version of the Trailside. The design was a value version of the 208.

The xesse has a sleeved barrel and an improved trigger bar spring along with a updated trigger. 99% of the parts are the same between the two pistols..

The trigger on both pistols is a 2 stage design and can be quite good.. each stage can be adjusted for pull. Pull can be reduced to around 2.5 lbs

Most of the problems found in the original Trailside have been addressed in the Xesse. The one weakness is.the slide release. Which has a very fine adjustment to lock the slide back. Experience with the pistol will resolve that. The trigger guard which also serves as the slide stop was known to break. This problem for the most part has been resolved and is easily addressed. I fixed my trailside and have never had this issue.


Overall a very good accurate pistol..

OK, but shouldn't this thread (and all of the other recent questions about various guns) be posted in the "Equipment" section?


Yes.

I have an X-Esse Sport and the slide stop is not working reliably at this point and the slide doesn't lock back after the magazine empties. 

Anyone have a fix?

Val

1st thing is to clean the slide stop well. they tend to gather dirt.. then tighten it slightly.. there is a screw on the inside of the frame that tightens it.. remove the grips and use the access hole on the right side of the frame

it a bit tricky to get just the right amount of tightness.. Also I highly suggest you sling shot the slide to load the first round.. When Larry's guns stock gets back to being sold by the Cardinal shooting center get some of his magazine springs.. they help with the magazine catching the stop.

Thanks!

I have the X-esse ISPC model. I have already fixed the slide stop/trigger guard, so I don't have to worry about it breaking. I have always sling shot my slide because I already knew that the slide stop is easily worn. I have a 2X scope and a Larry's Guns Scope Rail on it, which makes hitting a 2" steel plate very easy free hand at 25 yards. After I figured out how to properly load the magazines I have had no more problem about the pistol not picking up a round from the magazine. But it also may just have needed a break in period.
I have 0 regrets on my purchase of this pistol. It shoots as good as a model 41 and ejects better than the model 41 S&W.

Here is a picture of mine before the Larry's Gun Scope rail was added.



Here it is after the Larry's Gun Scope Rail.

I would recommend that if you are looking at the Long version to spend a little more and get the ISPC model. It has a few improvements over the long version that are worth the extra money.

jstanfield103 wrote:I have the X-esse ISPC model. I have already fixed the slide stop/trigger guard, so I don't have to worry about it breaking. I have always sling shot my slide because I already knew that the slide stop is easily worn. I have a 2X scope and a Larry's Guns Scope Rail on it, which makes hitting a 2" steel plate very easy free hand at 25 yards. After I figured out how to properly load the magazines I have had no more problem about the pistol not picking up a round from the magazine. But it also may just have needed a break in period.
I have 0 regrets on my purchase of this pistol. It shoots as good as a model 41 and ejects better than the model 41 S&W.

Here is a picture of mine before the Larry's Gun Scope rail was added.



Here it is after the Larry's Gun Scope Rail.

 

Just curious, why did you move to the rail mount from Larry's Guns?   Was using rings on the built in rail not sufficient?

The X-esse is a very light weight pistol and using Larry's mount puts a little more weight up front and keeps the muzzle down during rapid fire for me.

Thanks Ray, makes good sense now.    I see two allen screws in the photo, did you have to drill and tap the frame for the mount?

No it slides onto the bottom rail and the two large allen head screws are used to tighten it down. Goes on and off very easily and leaves and you won't have to re-zero your dot after you remove and reinstall it.

Guy's I went with the rail because I really did not have an 11mm scope rings for the factory slide rail. I wanted to use regular scope rings Weaver style. Plus as said, the rail can be removed and put back on with out re-sighting the scope back in.

Thank!  Good info.  If I decide to go that way, I'm hoping I can find one of Larry's mounts.

Ray Dash wrote:No it slides onto the bottom rail and the two large allen head screws are used to tighten it down. Goes on and off very easily and leaves and you won't have to re-zero your dot after you remove and reinstall it.

Ray,

You just busted the reason I didn't want to go this route.  How is it that I don't need to re-zero the dot.  The mount ends up exactly in the same place
each time?  If so, and easy on and off mean I can clean the gun without needing to re-zero afterwards.  The extra weight up front will be a nice bonus
too.  Wish I had known this earlier...

Doug

I will put it this way. You have to take the 11mm rings off the rail every time you want to remove the slide to clean the pistol well. Then you can remount the scope and rings as a unit. You still have to loosen the plastic stop or cover that is under the barrel to remove the rear slide also. After remounting the scope and rings, it will be close to 0 but not exactly. Will the scope be in the exact same place on the 11mm rail. Probably not. Much easier to loosen the 2 screws on the Larry's Mount everything comes off in one quick motion and goes back on exactly where it was. No worries.

Doug Tiedt wrote:

Ray Dash wrote:No it slides onto the bottom rail and the two large allen head screws are used to tighten it down. Goes on and off very easily and leaves and you won't have to re-zero your dot after you remove and reinstall it.

Ray,

You just busted the reason I didn't want to go this route.  How is it that I don't need to re-zero the dot.  The mount ends up exactly in the same place
each time?  If so, and easy on and off mean I can clean the gun without needing to re-zero afterwards.  The extra weight up front will be a nice bonus
too.  Wish I had known this earlier...

Doug

That is right Doug, it mounts in the same exact place when you put it back on so no need to re-zero.

How did you fix the trigger guard issue?

The little nub on the guard that serves as the slide stop must make full even contact with the frame when it's in a normal position...they have been known to have a casting line.that needs to be flattened on the frame side to allow full contact.  The guard must be able to rise far enough to allow the stop to rotate up and contact the frame. The 1" portion in front of the guard controls when the guard stops rotating upward so a bit of filling can adjust this.

Larrys suggested bending the guard in a vice so it would.make full contact.. bend at your own risk!!

If you search the web you will also see a modification done to the recoil spring guide that stops the slide prior to impacting the guard. I've never needed this method but it certainly has promise.  Btw Walter USA has been known to replace a broken trigger guard for free