Best case trimmer, opinions needed

I just picked up a Hornaday lock and load progressive reloading press. I am going to start reloading for 9mm with the goal of going distinguished. What is the best choice for case trimming and chamfering? Doing all three steps (length, outside/inside chamfer) At once is ideal.

What are my best options?

I have seen pictures of the Dylan trimmer that mounts onto the progressive press. That looks like a pretty convenient option. What do you all think?

It’s Pistol. 
Most don’t

I read the pistol reloading section of my reloading manual yesterday to become familiar with the process. The manual stressed that having consistent OAL on each case was a critical step because of the crimping process.

Is this not the case?

Is crimping not used for bull’s-eye reloading?

Since you don't "crimp" a 45 case it doesn't grow so trimming isn't necessary. Bullets in 45 cases are friction fit. Military and commercial loads are held in with glue! Of course everyone knows about 22 loads but if you shoot any other calibers that require crimping you may want to buy a gauge for them. Personally I use gauges on all my loads to check diameter and length.

Larry2520,
Thanks for the info. I will be loading for 9mm exclusively.

What is the purpose of the gauge that you use? Is it just to be sure that the brass is not too long or does it measure OAL of the loaded cartridge also?

Are you referring Wilson OAL gauges that you use?

I have crimped my lead 45’s to .463 since 1988

Most people don’t trim pistol brass for the following reasons:

1. Most brass is below the maximum case length from the start.
2. It never gets longer as the firing process tends to collapse the 
    extraction groove.
3. When the case shrinks they do not shrink the same case-to-case
    So you’ll be trimming constantly.

The Dillion trimmer is good, but it doesn’t come in 9mm.  

The best approach to loading 9mm on a progressive is to process your brass by de capping and sizing in one setup and then loading the brass after wet tumbling (no pins).   

With 9mm, you need to scour your brass for military cases with crimped primers.  Even if you buy new brass and meticulously pick up only your own, military brass WILL get in to your stash and the crimps on military brass are heavy.

Wobbley,
Thanks for the explanation. Do some people size cases without case lube? I have loaded for rifle for competitive shooting for about 16 years and I have never heard of anyone sizing rifle cases without lube.
-TH

Straight walled cases can be sized without lube with a tungsten carbide sizing die.

You can size 9mm without lube in a carbide die. Or, get away with it at least ;-)

It's so much easier with a little lube.  Hornady One Shot, one of my buddies uses Pam.

hengehold wrote:Wobbley,
Thanks for the explanation. Do some people size cases without case lube? I have loaded for rifle for competitive shooting for about 16 years and I have never heard of anyone sizing rifle cases without lube.
-TH

There are carbide rifle dies and you still have to lube them.  You CAN get away with notblubing when using carbide dies.  If you do use Hornady One Shot it has to be used per the directions.

There was some helpful advice here a while ago, for 9mm. There is no need to crimp...just use another sizing die in the last step and remove the flare, down about .1" below the case mouth. Remember it's a tapered case. Depending on your barrel twist, load 147gr Zero or Hornady XTP JHPs at about 975 fps, or 125gr a little faster (1050 fps). You barely need to flare the cases since these are "boat tail" bullets. No trimming/chamfering necessary, but good idea to sort by headstamp and length. Good ammo for an EIC match.

After becoming distinguished with the 1911 and factory ball .45 ACP ammo, I was shooting the Kidd accurized Beretta for fun in EIC matches.  I used new Starline 9mm brass. I did lube the cases so they'd be easier to size. I never felt the need to trim the new cases and I actually never trim any 9mm cases. I used the once fired cases for the short line and even used mixed headstamps. Actually for the small amount of ammo used for the long line in EIC matches, I would consider a known accurate factory round today. Back in the day Atlanta Arms ammo shot very well. The tip not to really crimp 9mm, but just take out the bell, is a very good one.

Sizing new .32 S&W-L brass in a carbide sizing die, without lube, I found the press would pull the rim of the case off if I did not use some of the spray-on-and-dry lube, both outside the case and inside.

I have a dillon trimmer (for 223/30.06) and stopped using it, 

loud,  even if you don't use the plastic bits w/ the vacuum hose attachment, 


I've never trimmed pistol brass, but use a Gracey now (had it for years) for rifle brass

No trimming needed for pistol cases. New Starline brass can be purchased for 12 cents per round, for 50 yard loads. 

The info I use is in this topic:  https://www.bullseyeforum.net/t7790-bullet-and-pwd-charge-for-9-mm

I don't trim pistol brass either. For rifle brass, I use the Worlds Finest Trimmer:
https://www.littlecrowgunworks.com/

I slap it in the mini lathe and can run through 100 rounds in a few minutes.

Joel