New Pardini SP Bullseye on its way...

First topic message reminder :

I'm very excited, I have a brand spanking new Pardini SP Bullseye on its way. I will get it as soon as Firearm retail is allowed to resume and the ranges open.
Does anyone have any tips on setup or initial maintenance for the gun before shooting it?
Thanks,
Dany

Hey Crankster did you encounter this problem using the Pardini Rings that are milled down

James Hensler wrote:Hey Crankster did you encounter this problem using the Pardini Rings that are milled down

hey Jim:

Yes these were the Pardini milled rings that this happened to. It appears that the Pardini rings are a bit wider then most rings (longer?) so there is more real estate to make sure that they overlap on both the initial rearward travel of the bolt and when it slides forward to load the next round.  

Regards, 
Cranky

Just asking because I got lucky and I had zero issues. Now the dot is located on the rail so no worries out there

Buy spare parts ahead of time to stay ahead of the curve. I would suggest getting a spare recoil spring, extractor, extractor spring and a firing pin and two magazine springs. I shoot about 12K through mine every year. The recoil spring seems to last 4K or 5K rounds. Also the rubber bolt buffer o rings needed replacement at 15K rounds. I also replaced my magazine springs at 15K rounds.

Search this forum and target talk forum for maintenance tips and trouble shooting in the rare event you experience a technical problem with the gun. Mine is very reliable but when the recoil or magazine  springs wear out the alibis start, otherwise its rock solid for reliability.

Here's a good post on other functional stuff !
https://www.bullseyeforum.net/t14472-the-annals-of-troubleshooting-a-pardini-sp-be-22

From this post I ordered:
Mc Master Carr O rings:
Part number 5308T113, Buna-N, Durometer Hardness (90A), 0.07” Width, 0.070” ID, 0.201” OD

Very good alternative to paying $$$ for the o rings from Pardini. So far the new o rings are working fine after 400 shots.

Good luck and enjoy, I think I will be buried with mine so I can play in my after life!

Thanks for the pointers!!
Do you order your Pardini parts directly from Pardini USA?

"I think I will be buried with mine so I can play in my after life!"   <=== I like that LOL

Yes I order parts from Pardini USA. They have a service kit that is a bundle of the commonly requested parts that helps for ease of ordering. I can't remember if it has a firing pin in it but it at least has the recoil spring and extractor and spring as I recall.

Wow! Thank you Craig B, very timely reminder for me. I bought my pair of Pardini's mid last year and put about 6k of mostly Aguila Super Extra SV through the SP22. I sent them back to Pardini USA whilst I was away over the winter and they kindly serviced the guns and replaced the damper o-rings and the recoil springs. So far this year I've put about 5k through the SP22, again mostly Aguila SE SV, but just a couple of days ago, due to the ammo shortages, I switched to Aguila Pistol Match and immediately started to suffer failures. I thought that might just be because I haven't cleaned it for about 600+ rounds, but then read your post. This morning I pulled it apart to clean as usual and measured the recoil and magazines springs. Fortunately I have the Pardini spares kit and so was able to swap out the springs. Tried again this afternoon with a clean gun - perfect, no failures of any kind with the Pistol Match ammo (it is slightly lower velocity and "less sharp" than the SE SV, it is very similar feel to Eley Target). Phew!!! I've bought a large stash of Pistol Match and it would have been a disaster if my SP22 did not like it.

The magazine springs have seen about 11k rounds 

This change to the recoil spring is after only about 5k rounds
 
I will order more springs from Pardini USA so that I've got spares ready to go in the future.

Good post... nice to actually see the springs difference.
Thanks.

I just replaced my HP spring hoping it fixes my FTF with XTP 85’s

Hi All, just shot a few photos.

Here is the email I received from Alex at Pardini when I asked where to mount the scope. (Note I had already mounted it when I got his reply, so I didn't exactly follow his advice.)

Mike,
It is really shooter dependent but I like to mount the rear ring forward enough from the rear sight so that I can access the first stage weight screw (the hole right in front of the rear sight, on the top of the frame, left side).


Now, Mr Cranky has put a lot more rounds through his Pardini than I have, but with the scope mounts supplied by Pardini in their package which includes the scope, there is almost 1mm space between the bottom of the scope mounts and the bolt. (Could not get a photo of that).


Attached are three photos of my gun, with bolt open, bolt closed and the screw in question. I still don't know what that stage weight screw is for, but am guessing it's only used with the iron sights?


I felt the gun was nose heavy enough that I wanted the red dot as far back as possible, and I do not regret that decision, although I guess I would have pushed the scope forward a few mm to have access to that mystery bolt.
 

For this Question "Attached are three photos of my gun, with bolt open, bolt closed and the screw in question. I still don't know what that stage weight screw is for, but am guessing it's only used with the iron sights?"

Answer:
The screw in question is used to adjust the first stage part of your trigger pull, its nice to be able to get to it with the allen wrench supplied with the pistol. The adjustment details are in the owners manual. After you shoot it for a while you may want to adjust the part of the two trigger stage length and pull weight for each as a matter of fine tuned personal preference.

CraigB5940 wrote:

Answer:
The screw in question is used to adjust the first stage part of your trigger pull, its nice to be able to get to it with the allen wrench supplied with the pistol. The adjustment details are in the owners manual. After you shoot it for a while you may want to adjust the trigger stages length and pull weight for each as a matter of fine tuned personal preference.

Ahh, if I ever get there, I will break the Loctite and push the scope forward those few mm. Thanks for the clarification. Still new to this gun.

I have had my dot all over my Pardini and now it is perfect for me. I used to avg 90-92 at 50 yards with the dot mounted on the rear of the pistol and now I avg 95-98 out on the rail. The first thing I noticed was how much more the wobble was. It was dramatic. I worked on reducing it and bam my scores went up. I think that by putting the dot on the rear it masks or downplays the amount of wobble or you don’t even know it’s moving hence a 9 or 8 that you blame on being a flier. I don’t get fliers without knowing I was off center. I don’t like how it looks but I definitely shoot better than I did. 

One other reason I love the dot out there is I can switch from SP to HP with no dope change because I have another dot on it as well.

Cranky is onto something in regard to the "wings" of the bolt contacting the forward ring and resulting in ring movement.  I pulled my front ring (a Pardini purchased ring) and the underside showed clear wear from contact with the bolt.  That explains my ring movement.  I stuck that ring in the milling machine and made some clearance.  Everybody doesn't have a mill I realize, but judicious work with a file will suffice.  Make your cut angled so that you do not reduce the thickness of the claw itself.

I started with the dot out front but moving it back seems to be better for me. I avoided it because I feared the dope change between 22 and 32 ACP regarding windage would be too much but it's only 3 clicks on my Match Dot II which surprised me, its not the same for everyone and that's I didn't try it when I first got the pistol 3/4 through the match season  for 2018. I think it's all personal. I actually did not see any other shooters using the dot on the front as I recall.

I haven’t seen any either
If I can ever get to a damn match and bust out a 880+ we might see a few in the future. I openly admit I hate the looks! Lol

Ok guys, want you to take a look at the third photo from Mike Margolis.  

The front ring needs to be moved forward about 1/2 inch so that it overlaps the charging handle of his bolt, the shiny silver part you put your fingers on.  Do not move it too far forward so that the bolt can catch it when it recoils.  See Mike picture number 2.  

It is ok to mount your red dot with the front ring not catching all of the scope tube, and it is also ok to mount a sunshade and have the front mount half on the shade and half on the front tube.  

Regards, 
Crankster

Vociferous wrote:My Pardini does not like CCI.  It does like CMP Eley.  YMMV.

Same for me......

CrankyThunder wrote:
The front ring needs to be moved forward about 1/2 inch so that it overlaps the charging handle of his bolt, the shiny silver part you put your fingers on.  Do not move it too far forward so that the bolt can catch it when it recoils. 
Regards, 
Crankster

So I took your advice, Mr. Crankypants, and moved the dot forward by half an inch.

Screwed up my sighting in, redid that, 10 10's on the bench, and all left in real life, and spent an hour adjusting it for my hand and my eye. Still not happy, shot a 254 instead of my usual 270ish

All your fault. Just sayin'

Picked it up today.
Greg from Derr Precision set it up for me as a starting point.
Wow, what a nice piece of equipment!
Feels really good in the hand.

Now to book some range time!

That’s a cool way to mount the dot...congrats

Looking forward to your range report!

Congrats and welcome to the #PardiniFamily. Looking forward to your first impressions.

There is a range open near me on a reservation basis. So I booked a couple of hours for Monday.
This visit will be mainly to zero-in the dot.
I don't have access to a 50-foot range, so this will have to do...
One hour at 7 yards to zero-in.
One hour at 25 yards to zero-in that distance and to see how shaky I am.

I won't blame the gun :-)