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Nickel plated 45 Brass

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troystaten
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Post by Bestdentist99 10/9/2020, 6:30 pm

Aside from color, is there any difference between  nickel plated and yellow brass? I just purchased pre-primed (I don’t know what brand primers were used) brass for my 45 wad gun and am wondering if there’s any difference in performance between the two in your experience (accuracy, reloading, etc)?

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Post by Schaumannk 10/10/2020, 12:50 am

I’ve never had any issues.  My only issue with brass, is sometimes you find that companies prime 45 brass with small pistol primers.  That can gum up your reloading data, and a progressive press.

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Post by Bestdentist99 10/10/2020, 1:09 am

These are large primers. I generally use CCI, but since they are as easy to buy as hens teeth these days, I take what I can get. I’ll test these out this weekend.
Thanks for the reply.

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Post by CR10X 10/10/2020, 1:15 am

For me, no difference in accuracy. Brass reloading life always seemed significantly shorter for .45 and .38 nickel with case splitting showing up after only a few reloading cycles. Some batches of nickel .38 special would show splitting after thr first or second reloading at times. Some people like using nickel brass, so your experience may be different.
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Post by JIMPGOV 10/10/2020, 1:25 am

NICKLE BRASS IS EASIER TO SIZE.

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Post by Allen Barnett 10/10/2020, 11:18 am

Nickle can ruin a good sizing die if it happens to flake off and imbed in the die if you are not carefull.  It is much more a problem with rifle brass than pistol since you have to trim and chamfer it.

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Post by noylj 10/10/2020, 4:03 pm

Nickel cases have a large tendency to crack. 
Old nickel cases can slough off nickel into/onto sizing die and create "racing stripes" down your cases until you catch it and clean the die (I know, it happened to me).
I leave nickel cases to those who care more for looks...

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Post by mpolans 10/10/2020, 4:51 pm

Nickel cases are slicker, tending to extract from a gun easier, which might make them *slightly* more reliable. For the same reason, they're also usually easier to size. On the down side, IIRC, nickel work hardens, leading to cases cracking and splitting sooner than brass. You'll get fewer loadings out of them.

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Post by troystaten 10/11/2020, 11:03 am

I picked up a few at the range and use them for dummy rounds to test function.

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Post by REConley 10/11/2020, 11:13 am

The only variance I have ever had using brass VS nickel brass was when I was loading 38 Super +P loads for USPSA major. The nickel had a longer reloading life by far. I would have expected neck cracks using what I assumed would be a more brittle nickel case but my experience was just the opposite.
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Post by ric1911a1 10/11/2020, 11:19 am

I have always liked nickeled brass...........

If anyone has a couple thousand once-fired, large primer, same headstamp .45 cases, I would buy them........

Ric


Last edited by ric1911a1 on 10/11/2020, 11:20 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Spelling)
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Post by Kp321 10/12/2020, 2:24 am

For some reason, RP nickel brass seems thinner than others. If you are using it exclusively, there should not be a problem.

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Post by Slamfire 10/20/2020, 2:21 pm

This gentleman wrote an excellent article on the lifetime of nickle plated cases, and based on his experience, and that of the shooters here, the lifetime is less than non plated brass

Cartridge Case Longevity (Part 1)


and this was worth reading

How many times can you reload a .45 ACP case?


In my opinion, you only need nickle plating if you are going to store your case on a leather cartridge belt, the type with leather loops.  Or in some other corrosive environment. This is only for corrosion resistance, and the nickle plating is very good at corrosion protection. To a lesser extent the nickle is lubricative, and prevents the case from sticking to the chamber walls, (increasing bolt thrust) which is a good thing, if you want your cases to extract and the next round to feed. If you don't, then just apply super glue to the outside, chamber the round, and wait. I am sure you will require a long punch, or screwdriver and hammer to extract your case.

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