Sizing Primed Cases

Is it safe to first prime the cases and then size them? I plan to use a universal decapping die to decap all cases on a single stage press, then prime them using Lee Bench Prime, and then put the cases into a progressive press for sizing, flaring, charging, bullet seating and crimping. If sizing after priming is not recommended, I will change the workflow to decap and size first.

Best Regards,
Oleg.

You can size them after priming. Just remember to remove the decap pin.

Thanks, Ashley. Appreciate the confirmation. I plan to use the .454 Casull sizing die with decapping pin removed, for sizing the cases for lead SWCHP bullets. I think that it was you who recommended the .454 Casull sizing die.

Best Regards,
Oleg.

I may have recommended a 45 Long Colt die, but they’re about the same.

Why that order of operations?

You could decap with the universal decapping die, tumble, then run through the progressive press, including priming.

I am just starting with reloading. (Yes, my timing is impeccable). The press I was able to buy is the Lee Load Master. From all the research I have done, it is a good press, however, on-press priming may be problematic and the priming system appears to be rather finicky. 

Starting out, I want to reduce the need for fine adjustments of multiple components of the press to a minimum. Therefore, I decided to prime off press, using Lee Bench Prime tool. It appears to be straightforward and reliable. Since I am priming off press (off the progressive press), I will decap the cases off press as well, using a Lee single stage APP press.

To keep adjustments to a minimum, I will use the universal decapping die on the APP  press, which will allow me to run .45 ACP, .28 Sp and 9mm through the same setup without changing the dies. Then comes priming. I plan to have the sizing die of the appropriate caliber as part of the setup for the caliber-specific turret. The caliber specific setup will include (for .45 ACP - my staring caliber) a sizing-only die, Lyman neck-expanding M die, power-through charging die (not using the flaring function) with Lee Auto-Drum powder measure, bullet seating die with the seating stem made for lead SWC bullets, and a taper crimp die.

While, this is setup involves 3 discreet components (APP press, priming tool and Load Master press) it appears to be problem-free and reliable for a beginner reloader.


Finally, in these times of shortage, this is the setup I was able to procure without having to pay scalpers' prices.

The never-ending renovation of my attic is nearing the end in the next couple of week and I will be finally starting to reload.

Best Regards,
Oleg.

Meh. Try priming in the progressive cycle.

Honestly, try decapping in the progressive cycle as you size.

Not to be dismissive of the thought you have put into this (and you clearly have put a lot), but sometimes we're our own worst enemies by overthinking things.

I had a Loadmaster for a while, the priming was lousy and didn't work well. I did something similar.  You could get a tool head with just the sizer/decapper that you want to use and take advantage of the case collator/feeder.  Prime separately.  Then set up a tool head with the belling/powder feed, seater, crimp stations.  Then there's plenty of room for the the powder check and bullet feeder stations.

Whilst I accept JohnB's points above, I also prefer to prime off the press.

I have come to really like the Lee APP machine which I mostly use for decap/size. I have it set up next to my XL650 and can use the case feeder for both by just moving it over from the Dillon tubular mount to a similar home made mount for the APP. I run dirty brass quickly through my (walnut shell) vibro to get rid of any grit, etc. Then apply some Hornady One Shot which significantly reduces the effort required to size the brass. Then I polish the decapped brass thoroughly to a bright shine. Prime the brass using a hand tool. 

I like to process everything in batches using one or more plastic Planters Nut tubs (about 400 45ACP brass) which are convenient to store large quantities of brass at each stage.

I have found that I can run the primed, shiny brass through the XL650 very smoothly. Not having to worry about primer tubes is good. The Case feeder likes no more than about half a tub of 45ACP, got a mirror mounted above the feeder to see if it needs refilling.

I know that many others prime on their progressive presses without trouble, but I am sometimes a bit of a Klutz, and my process now works really well for me. YMMV!

I have one of these and after mods, it makes the best tested ammo I have.

They are finicky though.

PM me for phone # so we can talk, much easier

I too am an advocate of priming off the progressive.  My work flow is;
1. deprime on a single stage with universal deprime punch.
2. wet tumble the deprimed brass without pins; just soap and Lemishine.
3. After brass is dry I prime on an RCBS bench prime tool. I use modified Dillon primer tubes.
4. Store brass for future loading
5. Run the brass through my progressive loaders which have deprime punch and priming systems removed.

Why do this?  First it keeps all grime and crud out of the progressive machines.  The single stage press can get amazingly dirty doing only the deprime function. I can see each and every primer before I seat them with the RCBS tool.  I'm anal about seeing the primer.  As long as one is paying attention it is virtually impossible to not properly prime a case.  I'm retired so my time while valuable is not so valuable that I have to conserve time reloading.  It takes longer but over the years doing it this way I have only very rarely had a problem producing excellent handgun ammo.  bob

Same here but for a different reason: I´m reloading, amongst other, the Swedish 9mm M39B brass which is Berdan primed. During the winter months when the amount of daylight or/and the outside temperature doesn´t/don´t allow range time there is extra time for reloading (being retired helps as well). Over the years I have collected many, many kilos of once-fired 39B brass casing. Using the right tools and practice, reloading them is not that big a problem. First, cleaning in a tumbler (can be done at any time) then SAMMI resizing using a Case Pro 100 to make sure the cases are as consistently externally similar as possible and brought back to proper specs (when used in some auto fire weapons the cases would often show bulging that even a carbide sizer die won´t completely remove, resulting in sizeable finished round seating problems; in my Walther P88 about a 40+% and in my SIG P210-6 about a 30+% in-barrel drop-test failure without the Case Pro 100 treatment), which gives me a case re-use rate of almost 100% and a drop-test failure of 0%! Then using my trusty RCBS Berdan de-priming tool I can sit and de-prime a lot in an evening while watching tv. A tip: use a 9mm rod or drill (a duct taped 5/16" drill will do also), slightly end-round shaped matching the inside of the case, to hold the cases. The original rod that comes with the tool is too small in diameter to hold the cases well and firmly. A little training will show you the best technique, once learned it goes rather quickly! The primers are RWS #5005 with a 5mm (.197") diameter (try finding  those  at your local gun shop!) and I prime using my #09460 RCBS primer tool (used manually because of the primer size) mounted on a low stool in front of the tv or listening to music, always keeping a close eye on the work in progress to prevent mistakes. I like using the 39B brass because of the very high quality and consistency and above all-it´s free! After a few hours work I have ready-primed cases all set to go for the rest of the reloading process on my RCBS Piggy Back 2 progressive reload set-up. Just thought I´d share.

Makes me so very, very, very happy we have boxer primers here!  

I bow to your perseverance, patience, ingenuity and desire to keep shooting! 

CR

I'm late to the thread but I've got to agree with John Bickar, all this on-press then off-press then on-press shenanigans seems like taking a simple fast process and turning it into a complex slow process.

On-press priming was invented for a reason.


Dirty brass -> wet tumbler -> dry it -> spray with HOS -> clean lubed brass goes onto the press

Pro2000 progressive press:
Station 1 - resize & deprime
Station 2 - primes on down stroke, charges on up
Station 3 - powder check (lockout) die
Station 4 - bullet feeder die
Station 5 - seating

Then I put rounds 100 at a time into a Shockbottle case gage. I check for fit and primer seating, put a nice bright blue metallic Sharpie stripe across the bottom of each to mark them as MINE, put in box, done.


Unless you guys think there are accuracy gains to be had by depriming and cleaning out the primer pockets before priming? That seems unlikely to me. I don't see the point of making this a multi-step process ... and hand priming? Ugh.

I too use to de-prime/size on a single stage press, rotary tumble, hand prime, load, then hit on the single stage with a factory crimp die. When I was performing these steps my rounds became incredibly consistent! One less thing to think about so I could focus on fundamentals. 

What led me to this point was a square deal having some priming issues. Not fully seating and in some instances crushing (but never detonating!) primers. With the unavailability of primers these days, cant afford to be wasting any!!! YMMV.....