refacing a HS barrel in the lathe due to dry fire?

Long time lurker, first time posting. 
I recently inherited a HS model 107 and started using it in local Bullseye matches, needed to add a mount for red dot but dont want to drill the barerel, love the gun and want to keep it the way my Grandfather left it. 
SO purchased a mint looking HS 107 from GunBroker to use as my bullseye Gun and find that the seller posted just the right pics to hide major dry fire damage to the barrel. Im looking for a chamber iron to try first but having doubts it will fix this damage. Does anyone have any experience machining one of these? Will it cause any issues Im not aware of? I dont think it will be much, maybe .015 thou but I dont know if that will be a problem with the ejector slot etc etc. I had been waiting on a few other purchases at the time and left this sit at my dealer too long to get any help fropm GB or the seller.  I will likely order another barrel from Dave at LSP but in the meantime I would like to make this usable for myself or resale etc etc. 
Thanks for any advice, I will be posting more in the future as this site has been an excellent source of info!

Barrel relining would be the best option, and David Sams would be the best one to do it (IMHO).

AP

Brownells has a tool that is made to iron out those kinds of dings. Looks like a lot of things these days, though, it is out of stock:https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/screwdrivers-sets/magna-tip-bits/chambermade-chamber-ironing-swage-gunsmith-tool-prod144240.aspx

here you go.. 

https://www.tandemkross.com/ChamberMadeChamberIroningSwage

a copy of the old Merit tool

Dings that deep are often from a broken firing pin.

For the machining question and some other possible ideas, you might try calling Alan Aronstein at Interarms Texas - www.interarmstx.com

After properly ironed back, it should still shoot.  I have done it with good results.  One in particular was an Olympic Space gun that had a huge crater from a broken firing pin.

I have two barrels from Alan.. They are good.

As deep as that is, I would reline the barrel.  Alex Hamilton at 10 Ring Precision in Texas would be my first choice.

Thanks guys, Ive been eyeing the chamber iron first and if that doesnt work I will try to face it in the lathe, just so I know if it can be done or if it is a viable alternative...Also good point on the broken firing pin. Didnt consider that as my other Hi Standards dont hit the chamber on the odd time they are dry fired without a snap cap. I chalked it up to maybe an aftermarket pin that was longer than the OEM. 
I havent used the Interarms slab sided barrels yet, I purchased a LSP barrel from Dave At LSP and its fantastic. Aluminum with steel inner barrel and drilled and tapped WITH  scope mount for 185.00 and weighs 5 oz less than factory barrel. From a rest it will make a quarter sized hole with CCI standard velocity so it far outshoots me at the moment. 
I will likely be putting a new barrel on this one, if anyone has experience with the new match barrels from Interarms I would be interested to hear.

Also, please remember, if you machine any off of the back of the barrel you will shorten the chamber,

Annnnnd THAT is the "its so obvious I didnt think of it" reason I made the post....I have a nicely equipped machine shop so may try it and use a chamber reamer when finished more to know for myself than to save the barrel. Also considered silver solder but I think it will be problematic.

Agree that facing the barrel will require a chambering reamer to reset chamber length.  Also probably need to adjust the extractor slot.  Not familiar enough with the high standard mechanism to guess whether the slide going forward that much extra will interfere with the operation.  I also would recommend a reline.  Alex Hamilton has a good reputation and probably less wait time than David Sams.

and, relocate the attachment button i'd suspect.

One more thought. How about sell the pistol and simply buy an LSP or Interarms barrel, D/T’d, for Grandpa’s pistol? Maybe I’m missing something?

Nothing to lose by trying to iron it out. If it were mine, I would start with a hardened rod that just fits the chamber. With the barrel on an anvil or heavy vise, strike perpendicular to the rod to flatten out the ding. It may restore enough to use. After that consider the chamber iron

If you have a machine shop….

Why not just bush the rear face of the chamber? I’d use a piece of “O-1 drill rod for the bush. It wouldn’t need to be super deep, maybe .125 (?) . Make the center hole .001 bigger than the existing chamber, the outer diameter .002 bigger than the counterbore (heavy press fit), then recut the extractor groove. If you’re uncomfortable with a press fit a pinch of silver solder paste will hold the bush.

I would think the OD would be about .315 to .375.

Why not a little bit of TIG rod - Minimal HAZ. Then file.

Wes Lorenz wrote:Why not a little bit of TIG rod - Minimal HAZ. Then file.

Unfortunately Wes most TIG welders have ruined all the parts I have had them weld on guns! It’s hard to find a guy that can TIG weld as good as you :-)
But I do have a really good micro laser welder text really good care of me :-)
Jon

RodJ wrote:One more thought. How about sell the pistol and simply buy an LSP or Interarms barrel, D/T’d, for Grandpa’s pistol?  Maybe I’m missing something? 

I will be buying one. This is mostly about keeping an original barrel with the gun and wanting to know how it can be done for the sake of learning...and peing po'd the seller hid this obvious issue in the pics.  Other than the 30.00 chamber iron nothing is cheaper than upgrading to a new LSP or aftermarket barrel. 

Several other good ideas, but not worth it unles the barrel was sentimental. Tig was a thought, I do that all day but wasnt sure if the barrel is any specific alloy that would crack. Seemed wrong although Sib would be easy.  Im going to use a tapered drift first either on the bench or in a arbor press. If that doesnt work tig might be acceptable since that part of the chamber isnt critical if it did need a bit of filing. as long as it doesnt snag brass.

Talked with Alan yesterday at a show. He was in good spirits. 
  I rh

Posted quick. He can walk you through repairs once he has seen the pictures. A barrel ironing tool may be all you need.

I don’t have a nicely equipped machine shop and I bushed my 45 acp came out great still shooting it. If you really want to learn that’s the way to go.
Just some thoughts.
Tom

Old fix for eroded chambers was a bushing made from a particular ford/chevy pushrod. Had the right ID for a 22.

Bushing is a reasonable fix, but it's got to be concentric. Make it case length minus an 1/8" and Loctite will most likely keep it in place. But a light press would be better.

But since it's a match pistol, I'd prefer a liner properly done.

yall are over thinking this, 

iron it out,  should work fine afterwards

then go buy another barrel to use if need be