Mayleigh Cup Team Match Pistols

I visited the firing line while the shooting was in progress on the covered Petrarca Range.

Here are the pistols in use by these top .22 shooters at Camp Perry.

Hämmerli 208s . . . . . . . . . .6
Marvel Conversions . . . . . . .4
Pardini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
S&W Model 41 . . . . . . . . . . 2
IZH-35 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Total . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

All had red dot scopes except for one Pardini shot by Emil.

Don't ask who shot which pistol, as I didn't note this info.

Best Regards,
Slo cat

The best top shooter at Perry this year Gunny Zins shoots a Fernwerkbau AW93 w/aimpoint micro-dot

I would have guessed....

Less Marvels
More M41's

Jim

Were they all Marvel Precision, or Advantage Arms, or Nighthawk?  Maybe even Kart or Dworak(sp?)

Jack H wrote:Were they all Marvel Precision, or Advantage Arms, or Nighthawk?  Maybe even Kart or Dworak(sp?)

As you might imagine, I could not examine these firearms closely, this was the middle of the match.  I viewed them from a slight distance, and they all appeared to be some kind of Marvel, but not 6" Karts.

Great information, I agree i thought there would be more 41's.

Great report Steve! There has been some discussion here while you big guns were at Perry. Some was regarding the worth of the Marvels. I'm kind of surprised that there wasn't a shooter using the FWB or a Hi Standard. I am even more surprised to see someone shooting an IZH. I wasn't surprised to see that most were using the Hammerli 208s.

BE Mike wrote:I'm kind of surprised that there wasn't a shooter using the FWB or a Hi Standard.

Normally Brian Zins would have made the team with his FWB AW 93, but it was windy during the HM/M .22 relay.  Brian was waiting for lulls in the wind, but waited too long and ate a round.  Thus killing his chance to make the team.

IIRC, this isn't the first year Brian won the nationals with a big ole goose egg. He's amazing.

BE Mike wrote:IIRC, this isn't the first year Brian won the nationals with a big ole goose egg. He's amazing.

 If memory serves me correctly, wasn't it in 2002 that Brian had a squib load with factory Federal match, scored a zero and still won?

I would have thought there would be some Rugers on that list...  

Yes, I like my Mark II that I've had for 25 years.  Currently shooting Expert class with it.

I agree with Marlin1881 regarding Rugers. I currently shoot a MK II Target Competition but will go to a S&W 41 next season. Rugers are every bit as capable as the other rimfire pistols, but I believe they are more difficult to shoot well. The triggers and sears need expert rimfire gunsmith work, such as Clark Custom Gun and the grip angle just does not suit some shooters. For some, it is merely following the crowd.

I would have to caution anyone attempting a trigger job on a Ruger MK2 or 3, as there is one critical component to watch for.  Basically, the Ruger factory trigger is not ready for primetime bullseye shooting, but I now have my MK2 setup with a perfect amount of pre-travel, sear engagement, and minimal overtravel.  2-3/4lb every time, using factory parts.

I have the 6-7/8 stainless tapered target model.  I did have to drill and tap the pre-travel screw, and I had to assemble/re-assemble many times before I got it right.  The sear and hammer hooks had to be polished with a ceramic stick.  I also added shims to minimize sideways movement on the trigger control parts.

The situation you can run into with factory Ruger parts is when you minimize the sear engagement.  I use .020".  The factory safety captures the sear itself, with a "hook", and holds it in place.  If you have any loose tolerance in that safety hook, with minimal sear engagement, it is possible to fire the gun with the safety on.  Take one apart sometime and take a look.  It will make sense.

Another option is to put a Volquartsen trigger kit in it.  I'm not sure what the specs are for this kit.  My attributes of a good bullseye trigger are:  1) poundage for release, 2) smoothness of engagement release travel, 3) amount of engagement (I use .020"), 4) amount of overtravel (minimal, while making sure all rotating parts clear each other), 5) pretravel/reset clearance (I don't worry about this as much as the other items).

This is all do-able with a factory Ruger, but will take some work.  I consider a 1911 trigger job to be 1/4 the amount of work, just to put it in perspective.  The Ruger MK3 almost doubles the amount of MK2 work.  It's easier just to convert it to a MK2 action, using the factory parts and some shims.

Fun stuff!  There's nothing quite like a good trigger...