Just obtained a unicorn. Smith & Wesson Model 52-2, New-in-box, NEVER FIRED!

Time to start shopping. Grips, dot, dot mount, dies, bullets, brass...

Can anyone tell how old it is? Serial # A488285.

VERY : ))

Sorry, couldn't help myself. Congrats!!!

A series were about 1972-1980.  My chart says 1978-1979.

As for optics mounts.  I put a reflex on mine.  No change in load or spring. EGW mount, Burris Fast Fire3

Thanks for the tips Wobbley. I've been reading a lot of your posts about loading. A new adventure.

Directions say, to field strip: safety off, slide back to notch, pop out slide lock, remove slide. Didn't work. Slide lock wouldn't budge. Took the bushing off, removed the guide rod & spring, then the slide lock came out and the rest was easy. I would prefer method 1 as I know the bushing tool is going to mess the finish. Suggestions?

The slide notch on a 52 isn’t easily visible like on a 1911.

Look at the slide panel that has “Smith & Wesson” on it.
Now move the slide back until the slide stop points to the “n” in 
Springfield, Mass. The slide stop should come out towards you if you apply 
pressure from the backside.

The protrusion in the slide lock hole is the stud on the end of the guide rod. It looks like the notch on the slide lock engages that stud so there's no way to remove the slide lock without first removing the bushing and letting the guide rod go forward 1/8" or more. Can anyone confirm? Or Am I missing something?

More info: I reassembled the slide first, barrel, bushing, guide rod and spring. The angle on the end of the slide lock was able to push the stud forward and allow full reassembly. That seems to indicate that I should be able to remove it the same way but, either the angle of the notch is too steep or I can't generate enough force with my finger.

Anybody else experience something like this?

On mine, I remove the slide lock pin first, remove the slide, remove the guide rod and spring, and then remove the bushing. That way the spring tension is not on the bushing when you unscrew it. and you don't need a wrench.

Assembly is the reverse.

@DA/SA That's what I want to do but I'm having trouble getting the slide lock out.

I still have my bushing wrench (and everything else that came with it new).  I've never needed to use it.  I never tried to take the slide lock out before removing the bushing.  Removing the bushing is not a big deal, even with my arthritic fingers.

Ok, got it! A little awkward but maybe it'll ease in time. Pull the slide back to the notch. Hold both the gun and the slide back with right hand. Pull guide rod forward 1/4" with left hand, push slide lock out with right pinky (while using rest of hand to hold the slide).

mspingeld wrote:Ok, got it! A little awkward but maybe it'll ease in time. Pull the slide back to the notch. Hold both the gun and the slide back with right hand. Pull guide rod forward 1/4" with left hand, push slide lock out with right pinky (while using rest of hand to hold the slide).

Next, with your third hand, grab the tools that you dropped in the previous steps.

I am green with envy that is a really nice pistol.  Be sure to check out the S&W forum there is a lot of info about 52's on it including posts by a guy who assembled them at the factory.  Also through the bushing wrench away.  You can use a flattened 12 point socket to loosen the bushing if it is two tight. Let us know how it shoots.

Not sure if this is helpful - I have two Model 52's, one that was put away in a gun safe back when dinosaurs were walking aground, and another that had a problem - which eventually turned out to be the magazine disconnect parts under the rear sight.

My "like new" gun is "stiff", and "gummy", probably because the oil inside it was from back in the Jurassic era.  My other gun, that lots of people tried to fix, with no success, is completely free.  The fellow in the S&W forum who used to assemble them is "donq52" as I recall.

Anyway, once we got the non-working gun to function properly, that has become my main gun.  I put a Vortex Venom rear sight on it, and you'd think it could have come this way from the factory!!

I might sell the un-used gun, as it is the closest to being a "collectors item".

Firing the gun that's been worked on is like firing a 1911; everything is smooth, and free.
The other gun feels like it's packed with the original grease.


The point of writing this, is that if your gun had been sitting around as long as mine, the grease might have thickened.  I've never had the trigger components out in either gun - that was the last thing on my list from Don, but we tracked it down to the magazine disconnect.

(On my gun with the red dot sight, I took that plunger and spring out completely.  Why would I need or want a magazine disconnect on a Bullseye gun?

Not "gummy", dry as a bone. I field stripped it and oiled it. Just waiting for the last few bits needed to start loading ammo for it. Starting with 2.7 Bullseye, Zero HBWC, Starline brass, seat flush, roll crimp. I'll also load some 2.8. Assuming both function well, I'll bench rest and see if there's a difference in group size. If so, obviously I'll go with the better group. If not, I'll stick with 2.7 which so many say is the "go to" load. Open to other suggestions.

Since 452AA is unobtanium, you can sub WST, (sorta).  2.9 Red Dot is absolute max.

Starline brass might give you an issue.  Suggest reviewing recent thread - https://www.bullseyeforum.net/t19125-reloading-148-hbwc

AP

I have read that thread but:

1. Starline was the only brass I could find.
2. Your post said the minimum plug depth was .625" and the maximum wall thickness was .009". The chart further down shows Starline as .632" and .0098", OK on the depth and only 8 thousandths too thick!
3. Starline was the only brass I could find.

For the time being, I'm only planning to shoot at 25 yards so, hopefully the results will be satisfactory. Now, if you want to give up 1000 of those Winchester cases you found, we've got a whole new story . Otherwise...Starline was the only brass I could find!

I do not have any Winchester.  I found old loaded Federal ammo.  I have not shot any of it yet.  Otherwise I'd be happy to share some of the brass.  However I have some old mixed brass that came to me from retired BE shooter.  Not many, maybe couple hundred of cases.  I don't plan on using it.




AP