Springfield RangeOfficer Trigger Issue

First topic message reminder :

I purchased a RO and performed my normal checks when at the store... lock-up, bushing, frame & slide fit. The intended use of this pistol is for range use as a poorman's bullseye weapon. All seemed good except the trigger. I thought my gunsmith will be able to take care of that so I made the purchase. Took the RO home and cleaned/lubed it and off to the gunsmith.

Here is where the fun starts. My gunsmith called me a week later and reported something unusual. The smith has done wonders for me in the past so I listen to him carefully. He stated that the stock trigger could not be set lower than about 4# as the pistol would slam fire on slide closing. He switched the modified trigger ( which I assume he stoned and polished ) to another RO in his possession and the modified trigger from my RO worked as intended ( safely ) in the frame of the other RO.

Here is what we are thinking...... could it be the pin placement is different in my frame as compared to the "other" RO frame and if it is what should be done? Could diagnosing the pin hole placement issue be as simple as testing to see if the pin holes line up with his armorer's block? Wouldn't that be an easy way to check?

Now that the Pistol have been modified it will not be covered by warranty so what we are going to try to do is this........ purchase forged parts with a taller sear along with a new hammer and "re-try". All this and the pistol has never fired a shot since purchased.

I posted this in another thread ( not in the GS thread ) and was PMed and advised I would get a better response from the experts. Thanks

Your thoughts.....

Anybody know of any good BE smiths in texas?

Since this rolled to a second page, some other members mentioned the following TX smiths earlier in the thread:
Buddy Chapman in Lone Oak, TX
Gunmaster in Plano, TX

I changed the MSH and installed a Brownells "comp" mainspring. This is where I'm stopping. I have about 300 rounds through it with no issue ( hammer drop, FTF, FTRB ) at all. So, I will treat it with respect and enjoy it till the next issue arises. Oh, now it shoots better than I do. Thanks for your input. I will contact Mr. Chapman when further service is needed.

Thanks to all.

Bill

Does it pass all of the function tests?: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxPxxYhZj1o

What weight mainspring did you use?

What does the trigger weigh in at with the new mainspring?

Yes, It does pass all the function tests. I used Ed Brown "Competition Mainspring". Came in a pack of 5. Not sure about the weight. Just proves I'm not even much of a hacksmith.

Repeat info? :
Before spending time & $s on your RO trigger:
Wolff makes reduced power mainsprings (28, 26, 24) for the ILS housings. Several of us use the 24s.- That and a touch of Neco-Molyslide on the sear/hammer hooks. -- TRY IT-YOU'LL LIKE IT !! -       Russ

ps: As I recall, the SA literature on the RO says it has xtra stout hammer and recoil springs.

+2 for the lube on the hammer hooks.  KC Crawford showed me that the silver permatex brake shoe paste is a good product for that.  Keeps your trigger pull feeling smooth.

20lb mainsprings aren't too light if they are available.  I think I have an ISMI mainspring in my gun.

Wolf has two hammer spring kits.  A heavy and light.

for bullseye its best to get rid of it and replace with standard 1911 mainspring housing and a 18# spring.

Rob Kovach wrote:+2 for the lube on the hammer hooks.  KC Crawford showed me that the silver permatex brake shoe paste is a good product for that.  Keeps your trigger pull feeling smooth.

Do you have SKU for the Permatex or a link to the product?  I can't find "silver permatex brake shoe paste" on their web site, but I did find 6 different brake lubricants. 

It's not silver it's nickel:

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-anti-seize/permatex--nickel-anti-seize-lubricant-detail

That's the stuff!

The Permatex Nickel anit-seize is not stocked locally, special order only or web purchase. 

I can find the Permatex COPPER anti-seize lube.  Is there any reason I should get the nickel over the copper?

LongSlide wrote: Is there any reason I should get the nickel over the copper?

Only that is what KC told me to use.

thanks, ordering on web.

LongSlide wrote:The Permatex Nickel anit-seize is not stocked locally, special order only or web purchase. 

I can find the Permatex COPPER anti-seize lube.  Is there any reason I should get the nickel over the copper?

It's fairly easy to order on Amazon.com.
JLK

i don't think it matters in a 1911.  Some assemblies are sensitive to copper, and that is why there is a choice for nickel.  Since ammo is brass and copper, I doub't there is a problem using the copper.

We are just looking for a compount that will stay put where you apply it, and won't easily wash off when you are routinely cleaning the top half of the gun.

Try NAPA.  I can't remember a time that the Nickel Anti-seize wasn't available in a big brush can (which would be a million year supply).

Call it drum brake anti-seize paste...if you ask the NAPA guy for anything else or say "gun sear lube" they won't be able to figure out what you are talking about.

A comparable permetex anti seize is available at all the auto stores,4.99, only diff i could see is its not as high heat rated but still over 2000

I just got the Permatex Nickel anti-seize and compared it to the Permatex Copper anti-seize.  The nickel anti-seize is thinner and feels slipperier; the copper anti-seize feels grittier too.   If I were to pick one just on the basis of that, it would be the nickel.

The MSDS sheets show the formulation to be quite different.  Higher graphite and heavy distillates in the nickel anti-seize, while the copper contains mineral oil.

Found it on Ebay, no shipping charge, $6.99 from JegsPerformance. I'm outside standing by the mailbox.


Sent From: Nokia Box phone

That's where I got it from.  It's crazy how fast I got it; ordered it on Tuesday and got it on Thursday.

Another thought is that your gun may be a victim of tolerance stacking. Every part has acceptable tolerances. No parts are perfect each time. I'd get a blueprint and check all hole locations with an accurate caliper. A thousands here, a couple of thousand there, etc. may be within spec but those less than perfect measurements can add up to a significant error.

Cylinder and Slide parts are excellent. I've used at least a dozen of their kits and in only one case did they not drop in and give significantly excellent results. Regardless of anything else they are a good investment as long as they are fitted and carefully checked by a meticulous gunsmith.

A good trigger job, one that is safe and ready for competition, is a work of art and craftsmanship. I don't care who made the gun I would never take a gun to the range that didn't pass all safety tests. No excuse for hammer drop. It's DANGEROUS! Not to mention possible damage to the gun.

Good luck. I've modified a number or RO's and got trigger pulls down to way below legal for Bullseye shooting with no safety issues.

I don't think any average guy with a caliper can do a frame hole check with just a caliper.

I agree that Cylinder and slide drop in trigger kits are awesome.  If you do decide to drop the money to buy one, that is a good opportunity to convert the gun over to ball legal if a Distinguished badge is something you are interested in.  You can order a kit with a ball legal hammer and separately order a ball legal grip safety.

I spoke with a shooter on our club's public range today re: 2 SA 1911's he was shooting. One of the guns trigger is set at 2.5 lbs and the other 3.5 lbs. Neither has ever exhibited any of the problems discussed here, both triggers were done by pro's and though both are SA's I don't know if they are RO's.

Springfield is one of the makes Clark's web site says they will use to build guns and I don't recall any comments about triggers by them.
Ron