tuning 1911 ejection with red dot

Hi,all have not been on for a while, been working on putting ultra dot on my colt series 70, I have a had the slide drilled and tapped and the port lowered .140 inch put a Clark base on and I put a longer ejector in and bought a new extractor and have looked at all the drawings and data that I can find on how to shape the ejector and extractor but cant get it to throw the brass out side ways, it is chewing up the bottom of red dot, what am I missing, looking for things to try.

Thanks Deerspy

I have a scope mount more like this--it has an angled cut that protects the scope:
http://www.marvelcustomguns.com/1911_old_bo-mar.htm

I probable should have started with one like that but all ready have a different hole pattern drilled and don't want to weld up and start over, I have seenl guns with the same base I used that worked and red dot was not beat up
but could not tell how the extractor was cut, I think extractor might be the problem or length of ejector

Show us a picture of your ejector with the slide off.  Maybe we can see the difference and make recommendations.

OK I will see how good smart phone will do might not get it done till to morrow

I always considered brass chewing up the UltraDot to be a normal thing. Now if I were getting malfunctions, I'd be concerned.

OK got some pictures

I'm going to agree with Mike on this one.  I'm not sure how you avoid brass hitting the scope with that rail.
A couple things for you to try:
--Lighter recoil spring.  A faster slide in my guns makes the brass go farther and faster to the right.
--Longer ejector.  Make that case spit out before the slide makes it all the way back.

I have my Ultradot mounted farther forward--that moves the electronics closer to the ejection port but makes it so the brass won't catch that edge anymore.

Oh, and the Marvel scope rib that I showed you before has the same hole pattern as the Clark rib that you are using.

I had not thought off moving scope forward but had thought off moving it up I have a set of rings that make it set .10 higher, I already have a longer ejector in stalled and have a 12 or 13 pound spring in not sure witch is in right now will have to check but did not seam to help, I was looking at clearance above the ejector it looks like I could add some to top and not hit slide which should help to, I am not having any jams or malfunctions or case damage I just don't like the digging in to scope that might cause problems down the road.
thanks Rob and Mike

My thought about moving the scope forward has to do with keeping the brass bouncing off of the scope on the round instead of tipping up and dinging the scope by hitting the case mouth edge on the scope.
A taller ejector doesn't change anything...just the length.

Those Ultra-dots are lifetime guaranteed, and it would take halfway to forever before the brass could erode the scope enough to cause a problem...

If brass hits the tube between rings, wrap it with a few layers of tape.

I have the same set up as you. BUT I have my red dot mounted more forward than you and my brass hits off of the body of the red dot where the scope tubes enter the adjustment body. Been shooting it that way for over 5 years now and never had a problem with ejection. I do get some brass marks on the red dot body but NO damage to the metal on the scope like I see on yours. I think your getting damage because it looks like the brass is hitting right on an edge when ejecting. With mine some brass smears but no damage to the scope OR the empty brass. Try mounting it more forward and see what happens.


Virgil Kane

Damage to the dot as a result of brass impacts would not be covered under warranty, every dot i have on a 45 has marks from the brass, if you want to cure or lesson its damage change out the recoil spring to a higher weight. It will slow down the flying brass and lessen its impact. you should be running the heaviest spring that your gun will take and still function with.

I have a 11# spring in there now, (will try a 13# that I have and slide scope forward as far as I can) to see if it just leaves brass mark with out digging in, if all it does is leave a mark with out digging in I think I can live with that.

thanks all for your thoughts

Deerspy,

I've tuned a few 1911's for ejection.   It seems to be a combination of recoil spring weight, extractor tension, extractor claw shape, length of ejector and shape of the ejector nose.

Here's a site that has info for a starting point: 


   [url=http://www.brazoscustom.com/magart/ejection perfection.htm]http://www.brazoscustom.com/magart/ejection%20perfection.htm[/url]


The link didn't work in this post - do a google search for ejection perfection and you'll find it.

I found that very small changes in the shape of the ejector nose sometimes has a big impact on the direction the case leaves the gun.  One light swipe of a fine file can make a difference.  The length of the ejector was key in one of my guns.

The fact that you had the ejection port lowered is a good thing to start with.

It seems every gun wants something different - I've never determined a cookbook explanation for ejection tuning. 

Looking close at the function of the extractor and ejector with dummy rounds will show you what they do.  Where the ejector nose hits the case has a big effect in my experience but also how the extractor holds and releases the case does as well.

will I bought a new extractor from EGW a heavy duty that is shorter than stock my old one was longer than stock on the distance from hook to firing pin stop,
and I notice the hook is deeper also, it looks like it is designed to have the end of hook ride in the case extractor grove but all the extractors that I have had in the past the rim of case would ride in bottom of hook. would it damage any thing to let the end of extractor hook ride in bottom of case extractor grove?

"would it damage any thing to let the end of extractor hook ride in bottom of case extractor grove?"

Not normally.

I actually prefer it that way, to make sure I have as much inside of the rim getting pulled on as possible. So long as the edge is not so sharp as to be pulling brass shavings off of the bottom of the groove, I see no problem.

That impact point looks like case mouth impacts. I would be amazed if even 30,000 rounds of such impact could shake anything loose in the optic. Just cosmetic, but annoying.

I've seen this situation on some of the setups I have used but never had a problem. If I were worried about it I would cut a piece of brass shim stock to the proper shape and secure the ends between the scope and rings making a small shield under the sight. A piece of soda or beer can might work rather than brass. In that case I would use Michelob Light.
Ron

got the new extractor fitted so case rim hits in bottom of hook but have not tried it yet, burrrrrr it cold out!