Homemade .22 conversion progress up-date Aug.24

Being I didn't go to Perry I spent time working on the .22 conversion. A somewhat copy of the Nelson I have that I altered. Moved the barrel back about 1/4". Barrel lock-up is by pushing the barrel back not pulling it forward. Photo is of GSG M-1911 magazine modified as per AMU and altered to fit feed ramp on barrel. .22 bullet is now slightly in the chamber, slide closes without issue!
 All that is needed is to get an extractor and firing pin installed. I do have an undersized firing pin hole drilled, ordered special size reamers to complete the holes. Have Nelson firing pin that I will need to alter due to to barrel being moved back about 1/4". Tool steel slide is a bit heavy so I'm looking for ways to remove weight. One piece grip safety/mainspring housing welded and installed. Pin is one of 2 I made so thumb safety and mainspring housing pin is not needed when working on the gun, turned blue when I used them in the fixture to weld the assembly. Aluminum Bronze trigger was made, will trim to length and radius after grips are installed then trigger shoe made. Recoil spring and full length guide rod also needs to be made. Have various 1911 recoil springs in the mail. Also have set of 3 Nelson and 41 recoil springs to try. Received complete 1911 pin set from EGW so Ill be adding hammer/sear assembly shortly. Got Rock River thumb safety on ebay, will be here tomorrow. Slow going but getting there! More photos if requested.

Thanks for the update. Very interesting!

Hey Frank,
I have 5, 6, and 7 Lb. springs coming from Frerking this week if you need to try later.
Doug K.

Doug: What kind of springs? 1911 or the size for the .22 conversions? I'm trying 1911 size springs, do have 3 Nelson springs (8,9 and 10lb) also have 6. 6.5 and 7lb from Wolff for the 41. Might use the same as Nelson springs if 1911 springs don't work. I'm waiting for some aluminum so I can finish my spring tester. I'm also waiting for Jerry to test the Barrel I made for Adam's Nelson, using a Anschutz barrel blank screw into a Nelson mounting block. Being I sleeved the one piece barrel with the sleeve from Brownells I might cut the screwed-up barrel (hole reamed off center) and screw in a Anschutz barrel.

They are for my AA conversion. Same as the Nelson. Do you need a piece of Anshutz barrel? I have a piece but it might be too short. 4.680”. You probably want 5” or more.

Doug;
 Yes it's bit short, if my memory is correct stock length of a Nelson barrel is 4-7/8" (4.875"), 4-3/4" (4.75 ) might work but will be flush with end of the slide. Barrel on my conversion is about 5-3/8" if my memory is correct. Might trim it shorter to lower weight. Have flush type 1911 extractor (not the long round type) in the mail from Caspian. Nelson extractor is too big because I want to round the top of the slide like a 208 top so as to lower weight. I'm hoping to us 3/8" radius. Width of the slide is .920". I'll have to modify a radius cutter to reduce the top of the slide to 3/4"wide.

More up-date photos of the conversion. Made full length guide rod, it's hollow on the inside, used 4130 steel tube from McMaster. Little long but better long than too short, screw to attach the barrel is inside the tube. Can trim it to what ever length I want later. Got 5 and 6lb variable rate springs from Wolff, 7,8 and 9lb  color coded 1911 springs, 2 of each size to add to my pile of new Wolff recoil springs so I'm sure I'll find the correct spring (5lb spring is in the gun at this time). Firing pin hole is complete, Nelson firing pin fits but is too long so end has to be trimmed, because it was too long I got springs from McMaster in various compression rates from just under 3lb/inch to under 2lbs and under 1lb all with same OD. Currently I have the under 1lb in the side but the pin to hold it in has to be drilled and reamed. Determining where to put the pin, thinking top to bottom on right side. End of the slide was trimmed, will grove it later. Naked slide is 7oz. (naked being not firing pin or extractor) A new, never fitted Caspian slide I have is 14oz naked. Slide back photo to show guide rod was held open with 45acs in between slide and barrel. Got Rock Island thumb safety. Pin the firing pin and install extractor and gun will be ready to test fire after putting in hammer, sear, disconnector, mounting some grips and completing slide stop. Do have Nelson slide stop so I need to make the pin. Getting there, should be test firing in a week to determine spring sizes. Also got complete 1911 pin kit from EGW so I have all the needed pins.

Now, can it handle .32??!

Being I stopped shooting the .32 or 38 in Center fire (never owned a 9mm) ever since being advised by a few top shooters at Perry to not shoot anything but the .45.  I doubt I would ever build a 32. My interest is to have the "One" gun to shoot a 2700 so having a 1911 type pistol in .22 is interesting to me. However I think the assembly will handle the .32 since it's of the blow-back system used in other top shooting .32s.
  Problem is I would have to start over, some of the tooling and fixtures made to make the slide would work on the 32 but others like drilling the hole for the firing pin would have to be made. I drilled the hole for the firing pin from the chamber side but it probably could be done from the hammer side if some type of drill bushing can be inserted into the larger diameter bored hole. Pin diameter that hits the rim of the .22 case is .0895" on the pin I got from Nelson (I'm using a Nelson firing pin). I drilled the hole with a guide I made using a #45 drill (.082") then reamed with solid carbide reamer .0900" in diameter. The pin on the large side is .245" so I found a few solid carbide letter D drill size end mills on ebay. One had flute length of 3/4" the other was 1-3/4". Being the depth of the hammer slot is 5/16" the 3/4" flute length mill having a 3/8" shank would only bore in a little over 7/16" deep due to the added length between D size and 3/8" shank transition. I then finished the hole with the long length mill. I didn't want to start with the long end mill because I was worried that the long mill might grab and break. Prior to using the end mill to bore the hole I used a #1 drill (.228") to remove most of the material. Work was All done on a Moore #3 Jig Borer. Long story to tell how much work putting in just the firing pin was. 
  The ejector I used was made by me and a copy of the 1911 ejector with a projection at the top so as to reach the .22 rim. Works but not installed yet since I was waiting for the pin set from EGW. Being it will not come out with the slide on the frame I will not pin it until after Rust Bluing the frame.
 If I were to use an insert to hold the firing pin like is done on the Nelson steel in aluminum insert it would have probably saved time and $$ but I wanted one piece slide made from S2 tool steel (S2 being very strong plus I had some on my tool steel pile).

Froneck, that is an extremely cool project. I love the progress updates and can't wait to see how it turns out.

Did drill and ream the hole needed for the pin to hold firing pin in, works great. (actually used a 3/32 carbide endmill after starting the hole with a #44 drill [.086"] to get past the Firing pin hole).  Used a 3/32 wire to test function so it would slip out easily, will need to trim the firing pin length because I moved barrel back about 1/4" the Nelson pin is about 1/4" too long. Next is the extractor! Did cut a slightly less than 3lb/inch spring for the FP, thought it was too strong so cut another that's slightly less than 1/b/inch (.7lb) but might try the heavier spring first. Since I purchased Chatillon force gauge to make a spring tested Ill use it to check what FP spring pressure is on my Nelson slide. Since I really don't need the extractor to test the FP I might drop in a hammer and sear to test FP spring and give me an idea what recoil spring will be needed. Have a few different main springs from EGW, will be interesting to determine which combo works best.
  My thoughts on cutting the FP is to measure at the .22 rim recess on the slide the amount FP is recessed if any when the FP hammer contact area is flush with the rear of the slide. Then cut mine to match. I'm sure Marvel or Nelson did a bit of testing to determine the best length no sense in me doing it!
 Will not be long before it will be a complete project ready for Rust Blueing since I have all that is needed to do it. I have 2 solutions one by Rustblue.com and the other from Brownells. Brownells bottle is bigger and 1/2 the price. But will determine which is better! Shipping by Brownells was less too!

Cut the slot for the extractor and drilled hole for extractor retaining pin. Ordered 2mm reamer to complete pin hole. Radiused (1/4" R) the top of the rear portion of the slide to reduce weight and cut groves to provide traction on both sides. Probably will cut groves in the front too then slide will be complete. Maybe cut a radius on the back by the hammer slot. Barrel needs extractor slot cut then it too will be complete. Make the slide stop pin to fit into the slide stop purchased from Nelson. That will complete the making of the conversion. Rust Blue the assembly after testing. Getting close!!

Interesting ! nice set up