Marvel Conversion dry firing

I have a new Marvel Conversion  from FCW. When i bought I also bought the dry fire device they sell. It lasted about 800 dry fires. What are others using? I remember reading about cutting pieces of a butter tub for this? Can anyone explain further? Thanks!

I don’t use one in my Nelson

I have 3 options for you....

1. Larry's flag inserts (the orange ones through Red Feather). You need to stretch out the flag CAFEFULLY, but it'll work. The flag will eventually come off, but it's still usable. You just need to remove it with a range rod. Not a big deal for longer dry fire sessions.

2. Use flexible refrigerator magnets to recreat the ones from FCW.

3. Buy a Nelson. Their firing pins are nearly unbreakable, no buffer required. I can't tell you how many Marvel firing pins I've broken. It's the weak link.

Dave

Cut a piece of 1/8" rubber to fit over the firing pin.

I have no experience with the Nelson, but I really like this Marvel on the dedicated lower from FCW. I like DA/SA idea.

Don't get me wrong, I really like my Marvel. I have a steel slide unit that feels really nice, and is probably more accurate than my Nelson. But you absolutely must use some sort of dry fire buffer/insert, or you will definitely break the firing pin. I would also highly recommend having a spare, complete firing pin block that you can swap quickly, especially if you plan on competing with it.

Dave

I just nip off about a 1/4" piece of foam ear plug & shove it behind the firing pin.
It lasts much longer than the ones FCW sells and are all over my work area any way.

DA/SA wrote:Cut a piece of 1/8" rubber to fit over the firing pin.

I have pretty much same made from old leather belt. Took a whole 5 minutes to make it. Lasts forever.

Good idea, I used the Red Feather or Yellow Dry Wall anchors I file off a 1/3 of the flange so they stay in and not get ejected,

Dcforman wrote:I have 3 options for you....

1. Larry's flag inserts (the orange ones through Red Feather). You need to stretch out the flag CAFEFULLY, but it'll work. The flag will eventually come off, but it's still usable. You just need to remove it with a range rod. Not a big deal for longer dry fire sessions.

2. Use flexible refrigerator magnets to recreat the ones from FCW.

3. Buy a Nelson. Their firing pins are nearly unbreakable, no buffer required. I can't tell you how many Marvel firing pins I've broken. It's the weak link.

Dave

Option 4
Get good at replacing firing pins (~$20 each time they break) and always bring a backup gun to a match.

I typically don't dryfire my Marvels much, and I have too have a pile of broken firing pins. Marvels are a good option but I have had zero parts failures with my Nelson and have used it 20x as much as my Marvel. When I do dry fire my marvel I use a chamber plug and a firing pin cover, still didn't prevent firing pin breaks.

Also an aside, if you have an alibi with your Marvel, always check the firing pin.

Are the firing pins failing in the same area all the time?

Foundryratjim wrote:Are the firing pins failing in the same area all the time?

I have personally experienced two points of failure, the shoulder where it tapers down to the point that impacts the rim and by the cut that allows the pin to hold it in place.

[quote="chiz1180"]
Also an aside, if you have an alibi with your Marvel, always check the firing pin.[/quote]


Can you explain please?  I've about 2-3k rounds through a new Marvel and in the past 300 or so firings, have had two alibi's.  Both times the hammer fell and I extracted a live round with no FP indent.  I was in a match so did not do any detail eval of the gun.  Whatever was going on through, it is intermittent
since the gun went back to working fine.  I've never taken the block out.  
Thanks.
Ed

Haven't broken one since this thread. (I'll whish I wouldn't have said that! )

https://www.bullseyeforum.net/t11854-broken-marvel-firing-pin

I'm glad I posted the question. I've learned a lot. I dry fire mine while using a Mantis X. It has helped me with my grip and trigger control. I keep track of rounds fired and dry fires. It will be interesting to see how long my pin lasts. I will be ordering a spare.

inthebeech wrote:

chiz1180 wrote:
Also an aside, if you have an alibi with your Marvel, always check the firing pin.

Can you explain please?  I've about 2-3k rounds through a new Marvel and in the past 300 or so firings, have had two alibi's.  Both times the hammer fell and I extracted a live round with no FP indent.  I was in a match so did not do any detail eval of the gun.  Whatever was going on through, it is intermittent
since the gun went back to working fine.  I've never taken the block out.  
Thanks.
Ed

Ed,

The firing pin should move freely, best way to check is to clear the gun of ammunition, lock the slide back, and test movement of the firing pin. It is also wise to check the front of the breach block as it is possible that the pin can get stuck in the foreword position, which is something you don't want to find out on the load command. In your mentioned example, I would also ensure the chamber is clean, one possibility is the round did not chamber fully and it got bumped home by the firing pin.

Yellow Drywall Anchors will magazine feed and protect your firing pin. You will want to check out the anchor sizes in person, since some brands are smaller than others. Find the best brand, and buy a bunch. They are cheap.