who puts a drop of oil on first round in magazine

anot sure if this is the correct forum to ask this question but my Marvel steel unit#1 seems to only run 100% without any issues when i place a drop of oil on my first round during matches. Shooting cci SV. Currently using recommended #6 spring. If I shoot cci mini mags it runs fine with no oil on first round. Its a complete FCW built frame. It seems like its short stroking and not picking up the following round without the drop of oil, I tried lowering to a 5# spring then it fails to push round fully into battery. Sent gun back to FCW on my dime cost me $120 and they installed new barrel. Still having the same problem. question is will placing oil on first round effect any accuracy? I read that theres many shooters that do this, but seems like alot of mixed reviews.Tried a few different ammos, fed match, aguila super extra 1130 fps and still have the same issue unless i oil first round.

Perhaps the mainspring is a bit too heavy.

Find out what is in it now and drop it a pound.

The result may be light strikes, but if not, it may help.

I will but not every round.
Make sure the action is oiled. When I have issues that's usually the reason.

It does sound like the root cause could be a tight chamber though.

I use a drop of oil on the first round of every magazine on my 41 and Nelson conversion. Might not be necessary but doesn’t hurt. Both run 100%.

I have a 41 with a Clark barrel.  It requires a drop of oil for any brand of ammunition I have tried.  I just accept it.

I do not need to do that as long as my guns are reasonably clean.  If I have an alibi or two during a match, I will oil that first round for the rest of that match and then clean the guns when I get home.  There are many people that will oil the first round as a matter of routine so there isn't any harm that comes from it but prefer not to have to until I have to.

John

Every few mags ill do a drop, but I usually dont have a lot of issues. I do try to remember to brush the chamber occassionally

I have a model 41, most important point is to keep the chamber clean.  I also brush off the bolt face periodically.  I do add a very small drop of oil to the top round of every other magazine, then smear it with my finger on the brass.  I don't like to overdo the oil, it tends to build up in the action and magazines and attract debris.  Using this procedure my 41 has been very reliable.


I have not seen any effect of oil on accuracy.

I shoot a High Standard Victor using SK Standard Plus or CCI Standard. I put one drop on the top round in the first magazine following cleaning the chamber. Has not been necessary on following magazines. The clean chamber must be a bit grabby on the brass case.

If I forget the drop of oil, I'll get a fail to extract, eject, or go into battery on the next couple of rounds until the chamber picks up some fouling.

TAB wrote:I shoot a High Standard Victor using SK Standard Plus or CCI Standard.  I put one drop on the top round in the first magazine following cleaning the chamber.   Has not been necessary on following magazines.  The clean chamber must be a bit grabby on the brass case.

If I forget the drop of oil, I'll get a fail to extract, eject, or go into battery on the next couple of rounds until the chamber picks up some fouling.

I see this with clean chambers on my S&W M41 (worked over by KC Kustoms with Ten Ring Precision and Clark barrels) and Nelson Conversion. First round ejects but the second round isn't picked up. Not a problem since it is very regular and happens in the first string of Slow Fire. Any problems after the first string of Slow Fire is ammo related.

Being fixed barrel/blow back designs checking if the second round is chambered by pulling the slide back slightly to see brass is no big deal. There is enough lube on CCI SV and other ammo so I don't bother oiling.

I have a Nelson Conversion on a DW PM9 frame.  Using Nelson mags, only way I don't have an Alibi is to put a drop of oil on first round in the mag!

Oil rounds, center fire or rim fire, when ever the action is running sluggishly with your ammunition. Case to chamber friction is absolutely undesirable in 1911's or blow back pistols, which is why for rimfires, the cases are coated in wax lubricants,  or grease. And have been for basically, forever.



Even so, wax lubricants will dry, get gummy during a match, and that (especially in cold weather) cause failures to eject/stove pipes.

At one 2700 Match an All Guard shooter with a President's 100 patch, was wiping all the grease off his Red Box Tenex, and then rubbing each round with an oily patch. Obviously he found even the heavy lubricants on the expensive pistol match ammunition created malfunctions in his 22 lr pistol.

He shot this target the same day. Pretty good with a 45.




This is Clark's advice on lubing 22 lr with oil




Now I encountered an issue after liberally oiling all the rounds in my M47 and M41, that is weak ignition developed. 







 I had stove pipes. Firstly I replaced the old mainsprings, and recoil springs, but still had issues. Finally I knocked out the block that hold the firing pin, and found the firing pin, and channel swimming in oil. That was oil squeezed out of the chamber and it flowed into the firing pin channel. The S&W M41 has a relatively weak ignition system, adding oil, which increased drag on the firing pin, created even weaker ignition.

After cleaning the firing pin and channel, and reinstalling the block, I decided after every match, to blow compressed air down the firing pin channel. I found that I had to press the firing pin forward, put the nozzle over the breech face hole, and blow, to get the gunk out of the channel. The firing pin at rest blocks the firing pin channel. Maybe it is a safety measure, maybe an accidental feature, but to blow the channel out, the firing pin has to be pushed forward.  And that helped considerably.

I really wish manufacturers made 22lr ammunition with a more sensitive priming compound for semi auto pistols. But they don't.