Reloading 38 special cases.....fit help please

First of all, thank you to all who have been so very helpful in my journey to reload accurate and low recoil 38 special target loads.
I'm using an old but very clean and smooth 3 die set from RCBS. I load on a single stage Forster Co-Ax reloading press.
I deprime and employ a vibratory cleaner for my once fired 38special cases....currently using S&B cases. I'm using Hornady LHBWC 148gn projectiles.
I read the directions on the RCBS dies and believe that they are set up per their defined instruction. It's an older RCBS die set that uses the tapered dilating rod and i have the appropriate bullet seating stem for the projectile.

After decapping, cleaning, full length sizing and priming....the empty case fits/drops into the cylinder of my 686 plus revolver perfectly and also fits into my model 52 barrel perfectly.
I gently flare/expand the case mouth so that the projectile fits in stable, at perhaps 10-15% of it's length. 
I then add by hand the measured amount of powder, place and seat the projectile to the appropriate depth which for my model 52 is just abit above flush with the case mouth.
The finished case/cartridge looks great, nice and smooth and uniform, no bulges....however it no longer fits the chamber of the barrel or the revolver cylinder. it's just too wide.
I run the completed cartridge through the empty full length sizing die and now the cartridge fits both beautifully.

I would very much appreciate help as to understanding why i'm having to re-size once again the completed cartridge....and what to do to rectify the problem.

The cartridges are firing consistently and accurately.

Thank you

Taper or roll crimp, and how much?

Does it go into the chamber at all, or just part way?

Blacken a round with a Sharpie and push it into the chamber and then back out. Look for where the black is rubbed off, or post a pic of it.

my impression was that the seating die sufficed in completing the process...the projectile felt very stable and fixed in position so i didn't add a final crimp

They need to be crimped after seating.

thank you 
does the crimp then also size the full length of the case?

No, it just removes the slight flare at the case mount. But you can also use a Lee Factory Crimp Die, and that will re-size the case as well as crimp it. The trouble there is that there is a broad tolerance band on them when manufactured, so you may get one that sizes it too small, and accuracy will suffer.

thank you
will make a change in my processing and will update as i learn more

Lots to learn about reloading, but fortunately, you will also find lots of helpful members on here!

A Lee “Factory Crimp” die does have a sizing ring in them as well, as applying a crimp.

However, I’ve never used one, never found the need. What I do when loading 38 flush seated wad cutters is to set it up as follows. Thread the die into the press so there is approx a nickle (5cent coin) between the bottom of the die and the top of the shell holder, then back out the seating stem. Take a charged case and start the bullet in the case; place it in the press and start seating the bullet until you get the bullet seated to your liking, then back off the seating stem a few turns. Then place the same loaded round into the press, run the round up the ram, then screw the die down while short stroking the ram so a crimp is applied. You don’t need much but it should look like in the picture below. Then re-set the seating stem to seat the bullet. That way you’ll seat then crimp in one stroke.

What you want is like this.

thank you. will try this.

great forum, really glad i found it

a resource to help troubleshoot chambering problems:

https://www.shootingtimes.com/editorial/reloading-tips-the-plunk-test/99389

S148 wrote:a resource to help troubleshoot chambering problems:

https://www.shootingtimes.com/editorial/reloading-tips-the-plunk-test/99389

great article.
I have to perform this with .22LR ammo since every manufacturer uses lube on the bullet which increases size and causes some ammo chambering issues.

Hello all,
I acquired a fair amount of this military "IVI" .38 special once fired brass. 
I thought I ask here before I spent all the time to de-prime & swage the primer pockets if the time will be well spent.
As I understand, with Military brass, there are some features (smaller inside volume) to contend with but am wondering if this will matter. I've heard some say to use a slightly oversized expander to keep the bullet from being distorted because of the thicker brass & smaller inside diameter.
Have any of you out there used this brass? Results?
Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks

rcsch

Sounds like an opportunity. Decap and remove the crimp if there is one. Find some Remington 148gr HBWC and load some up

Ray_Grigsby wrote:Sounds like an opportunity. Decap and remove the crimp if there is one.  Find some Remington 148gr HBWC and load some up

Roflmao  
Remingtons  

Just find any .38 wadcutters!

If you are flaring the case mouth with your RCBS die yo the point that you can put 10% of a wad cutter into it, you are likely very excessive in the diameter.
That flare (inside diameter) has to be enough so that the bullet is guided into place and not shaving the bullet during the procedure.
A too large flare extends down the case further and may not be removed by crimping.
As others have suggested be sure that you are crimping enough to hold the bullet in and remove the flare.
-ron

DA/SA wrote:No, it just removes the slight flare at the case mount. But you can also use a Lee Factory Crimp Die, and that will re-size the case as well as crimp it. The trouble there is that there is a broad tolerance band on them when manufactured, so you may get one that sizes it too small, and accuracy will suffer.

The Tech advisors at Sierra advised use of the Lee factory crimp w/ the following;  if it didn't yield the correct dimension exchange it. (Apparently customer servicre is quite good.) There were instances of more than 1 or 2 exchanges until the desired result was achieved. 

Ron Habegger

That's how I got the size I wanted that resulted in no bullet swaging.

Brass matters, sometimes the bulge is at case midspan because of internal case taper. I suggest Remington or Winchester brass as a starting point

Somewhere on my list of 3x my expected lifetime of projects is a sizing (draw) die to make 38 WC brass from whatever you can find. That WILL stretch the case, so there's trimming involved ...

Revolvers have very minimal chambers.
In my model 52's, the best roll crimp die in the Redding Profile Crimp die for accuracy.
I load the bullet flush or just below flush with the case mouth and roll crimp so only brass touches feeding ramp.
Mark the cases that won't chamber all around and the full length of the case. Drop a marked case in chamber, rotate it back and forth, remove look for scratched marking where interference is.
At very edge of case mouth: need a bit more roll crimp.
At depth of bullet seating: you need a larger expander or a seating stem that only contacts the bullet shoulder. If mark is only partially around case, you are seating bullets crooked. Get a good seating stem as described and expand with Lyman M die. Expander should leave case ID 0.001-0.002 inches smaller than actual bullet diameter.
Down near base of cartridge: not sizing far enough down. I use a Lee FCD, with carbide ring removed, as my sizing die.
If you can't figure it out, post pictures of marked and scratched cases.

This is a thread that I started when I was learning to load for a model 52. Might help some.

https://www.bullseyeforum.net/t19125-reloading-148-hbwc