For 9mm Luger, can one substitute the sizing die for a taper crimp die?

I've been reading a number of articles that delve into the need to crimp a 9mm Luger cartridge. As best as i can conclude, generally there is no need for a true crimp but rather one merely has to remove/restore the configuration and dimension of the expanded portion that facilitated projectile seating.

If that's the case, couldn't a sizing die be employed to execute this function as well (without the need for a taper die)?

Do we employ a separate taper die in an effort to minimize over-working the brass?

appreciate your thoughts.

That is prolly true for a straight wall round like .45 acp but 9mm is a tapered case...so maybe not.

Depending on what die set you have, the seating die may crimp the case at the time you are seating the bullet.  I know most older sets were like that.  I think the main reason for separating the steps is to give you more control over each operation.  You can set your seating die to seat the bullet and back its crimp off to zero and then in the next operation you can adjust your crimp to whatever you like.  If you make any changes to bullet or crimp you only have to mess with one of the die's settings.  If you are using one bullet pretty exclusively and the same crimp all the time for that bullet then one die/operation might suit you fine and your seating die might already be capable of this. 
  Using a sizing die won't give you any adjustment for the crimp and I think it might be too tight because the case is being sized to minimum each time.  Plus you would be doing this in a second operation so why not use an actual crimp die. 

John

thank you both for taking the time to answer....i guess i'm just trying to gain insight, to learn more of what function each die does or must do to effect quality, reproducible, safe and accurate loads.

i'm currently using a 4 die set from LEE on a single stage Forster C0-Ax press.

Handgun reloading is very new to me though i've competed and reloaded long range rifle for many years. The quality of reloads i'm now accomplishing are favorable though i know i have a lot to learn.

you also need to be cautious about your source for brass.
brass that's been thru some guns like Glock can be an issue 
brass that;s been thru a blow back pcc can be more of an issue

range brass may not be a savings

STEVE SAMELAK wrote:you also need to be cautious about your source for brass.
brass that's been thru some guns like Glock can be an issue 
brass that;s been thru a blow back pcc can be more of an issue

range brass may not be a savings

Steve

What issues have you found with blowbak ppc?

Brand-New

  I took a look at what the Lee 4 die set says it has and it comes with a Taper Crimp Die as you know.  According to the links on their site, the seating die is the same for either the 3 die or the 4 die set and the 3 die set description says the seating die will seat and crimp in the same operation. That was a lot of words to basically say you can in fact seat and crimp in the same operation with the die set you have now. 
  The appeal to combine them for you is that you are using a single stage press so eliminating an operation saves you a lot of time.  Many of us load on a progressive press so having an extra operation isn't really noticeable because all operations are being done with one pull of the handle.
  The reason you may want to keep the operations separate are what I laid out in my first post so you can make changes without disrupting the other operation's setting. If you are happy with the crimp you get from the combined die, then that point is moot. 

  I'll give you one point on loading for handgun and that is that it's not near as precise as long range rifle would need to be so combining these operations probably wouldn't be too big of a problem. 

Good Luck.
John

You might also consider the substitution of the Lee factory crimp die. This is supposed to full length re-size the brass back to standard and, finally, add a crimp to the case mouth. Probably only suitable for jacketed bullets (my guess, I am no expert), but that die definitely smoothes the brass out nicely.

But, given that you are using a single station press, using that standard Lee seat/crimp die and thereby eliminate the final die makes sense to me. Try it, test it, then decide.

thank you....really appreciate the information

NYKenn wrote:

STEVE SAMELAK wrote:you also need to be cautious about your source for brass.
brass that's been thru some guns like Glock can be an issue 
brass that;s been thru a blow back pcc can be more of an issue

range brass may not be a savings

Steve

What issues have you found with blowbak ppc?

It has been my experience that blow back style guns really stress the brass.
I can see my pcc b brass easily send it right tgo the recycle pile.

As previously mentioned, 9mm is a tapered case, not straight wall. Depending on chamber 9mm was fired from you may need to have a slightly more complicated sizing step, roll size or undersize die, otherwise you may end up with insufficient neck tension on the bullet which can allow bullet set back which is not a good thing at all. 9mm is kind of a pain to load when compared to 45acp and 38spl.

I use a Hornady seater die with the Hornady micrometer in place of the factory adjustment screw. Makes OAL length adjustments fast and easy when seating lead projectiles. Also works well with JHPs. Don't apply a big flare, then as RoyDean says, use the Lee Factory Crimp die on the upper 0.10" or so of the case and just re-size it. My uppermost case OD (aka "crimp") is ~.377". OAL depends on your barrel. For (coated) lead 147 gr I'm at about 1.130" OAL. These are accurate and reliable-feeding subsonic rounds.