Help me with SA Range Officer springs

Picked up a SA RO. Turning it into a wad gun. I have removed the ILS and replaced the plunger, pin and spring with a 20# and the trigger pull feels better but still very creepy but . Having a weaver slide mount installed and topping it off with a 30mm Ultra Dot(original). Some questions. 

1)The RO uses a titanium firing pin. Should I replace it with a different pin/spring combo? If so what would be rccommended?

2) how light of a main spring can I go with above FP/spring recomended?

3) what weight recoil spring for slide mounted ultra dot? When shooting 200gr LSWC target load(3.6-3.8gr Bullseye or equivalent)?

Any suggestions in where to start would be appreciated.

With that load I would start with an 11lb recoil spring. You might have to bump the load a little if it fails to feed. The thirty is a little heavy for the light loads. The firing pin works great as is. I probably wouldn't go below 18lb on the main spring. Remember the trigger pull will decrease when you decrease the main spring.

Len

Here are my opinions for your questions:
1. the stock firing pin and spring are fine unless you are having some sort of problem.
2. I use the ISMI 19lb springs. Wolf 18lb springs are as light as I would go. 17lb springs deliver some weak hits.
3. 11lb might be soft enough for the slide mount, 18-19# mainspring and that ammo combo.  I use a 10lb in the summer and 9lb in the winter.

If you want to improve the trigger, but you don't have a gunsmith near you to do the stone work, try a Cylinder and Slide drop in kit for a crisp trigger, or KC Crawford's roll kit.

You said your trigger was "creepy"--if you are feeling creep, you might be able to stone that out and it will become a roll for that travel distance.

Thanks guys, you have given me some great starting points. I did notice the trigger pull drop after the main spring reduction and an increase in creep(probably because of the reduced pull I could actually feel the sear creeping along). Next I was going to clean up the trigger surfaces, just slight polish not remove material. Then shoot the heck out of it with Nelson .22 conversion while my slide mount is being installed, smiths here are backed up this time of year here in Colorado(and probably everywhere else too). I was going to throw in a full length guid rod just so I don't have to remove the bushing when swapping out the slides. Any cons to doing that?

Get somebody to show you how to take the slide off without removing the bushing.  Its hard to describe in words but easy to do.  Essentially you retract the slide to the point where the slide stop aligns with the little notch, push the slide stop through and remove it while controlling the slide and compressed spring.  Then ease the slide off while controlling the spring.  Reassemble in reverse.  This will be easier when you get your 9-11 lb spring in place also.  I only remove the bushing on full cleaning jobs, which is not often.

I like the GI guide rod also.  I disassemble the way Dr. Don says.

You'll never get the best trigger job using the stock hammer and sear, but it can be made to feel a whole lot better than it comes from the factory. My Marvel base is a Springfield Armory Loaded and has had a trigger job using the OEM parts. My Springfield Armory Trophy Match has a Cylinder and Slide kit, which includes a new sear, hammer, disconnector, three leaf spring, etc. The hardened parts from C&S are top notch. The difference in the two triggers is very noticeable (the C&S being superior). I found that the C&S slide kit I bought was not a drop-in, but required some fitting. I would have a pistolsmith install the C&S kit, unless you are very familiar with how all the parts fit and how to do it. This is the kit I installed and the trigger weight is between 3.5 and 4 lbs.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1030382006/cylinder-and-slide-tactical-2-match-trigger-pull-5-piece-set-1911-government-commander-4-lb?cm_vc=OBv11030382006

I have never actually removed a slide with the bushing on fearing that the spring would buckle. I'll try it, if it stays together in the Nelson case while not in use that would be great! Thanks(I'll feel pretty stupid if I have been taking the bushing off first for years)

Well, I can't get it to stay together after I remove the slide. I can get it off all in one piece in my hand but as soon as I let go it all slips apart. 
With a FLGR it all stays together and reassembles just fine. I am thinking about having it hollowed out because it obviously is much heavier then the standard GI. I have also found an aluminum one but don't know how long it might last. Any thoughts?
http://www.briley.com/GovernmentAluminumGuideRodwithCap.aspx

Joe,
When you put it back together with the GI spring guide, all you have to do is hold the rear guide rod against the barrel until you get the slide started and the guide rod in the dust cover.  Once you get it that far, the dust cover keeps everything from sproinging apart.  I just keep my fingers covering the spring that's still exposed until everything is packed away.