Ruger Mark III Trigger

I really like the type of trigger that is on a Ruger Mark III. Would the trigger style on the mark III be considered a roll type trigger. I am looking to simulate that style of trigger on my 1911 and was hoping a roll type trigger would do the trick.

Ruger triggers are CREEPY yucky gritty roll triggers :p)
A good roll trigger will be smooth and consistent. I have done over 50 Ruger trigger jobs and feel confident about my description. A good 1911 roll can be short, medium and long. That would be my description or how fast trigger breaks when you start squeezing. I personally prefer a short roll. They break faster and let you know finger is still squeezing the trigger when you get chicken finger.
Jon

I've put a Volquartsen sear in mine (I recommend it). It's lighter and smoother, but still creepy. Can a good gunsmith make it crisp, or will it always be creepy?

Rugers are sloppy loose by design. A true glass rod crisp trigger is in my opinion not possible in a Ruger. I call it soft crisp. I believe the Clark steel trigger is a necessity. Aluminum triggers always feel spongy to me in a Ruger, therefore I don't like the Volquartzen trigger. Also don't care for how over travel screw hole feels on that trigger. Clark does make oversized hammer and sear pins but I haven't tried them. In my opinion the Ruger with a good trigger job will feel consistent for 90% of the time and a little different the other 10% of the time( but not bad). When I started shooting BE I used a Ruger. I had about 20 hours of messing with the trigger before I was really happy with it. I was beginning my gunsmithing career at the time. The trigger was phenomenal. I was regularly shooting high 880's with the pistol. I was shooting that pistol the 1st time I broke 2600.Ii love Rugers. Having said all that, I don't like the Volquartzen drop in parts. A good pistolsmith is worth every dollar when setting up a Ruger. I do trigger jobs on a lot of Rugers and many of them have the Volquartzen parts in them. I don't believe in drop in triggers/hammer/sear because they don't compensate for misaligned hammer and sear pin holes. KC Crawford ' s drop in is the exception. So in my opinion get BE smith to do your Ruger trigger job.
Jon

I agree with Jon... I sure did a pile of Rugers in the early days.. I still have a few lowers I acquired to convert #I's over to lock back # II's..I am not a fan at all for # III's..
The trigger, which uses the transfer bar pull design, which is similar to 41, and  other good target pistol designs, can be made nearly as good , but requires some work.. Replacing the pins with over sized that are closely fit to both the frame and the parts...Lining the barrels or machined from LW blanks will produce groups that match any other gun.....
I'll  give Ruger one thing..They sure put that barrel and receiver together to stay. Takes some special gear to get most of them apart..  I weld a heavy lug on pencil barrels to get them off..