Getting rid of 1911 trigger take up

Ive noticed that the take up distance of 1911 triggers vary quite a bit, I know you can get triggers with little bend out pieces that move the trigger back giving less slack but its also moving the trigger back and that's not what im looking for. Some sears and disconectors will vary take up, just wondering if anybody knows which brands of parts will provide the least take up. Old school gunsmiths would add metal to the back of the trigger bow to achieve this but it seems to be a lost art.

Although one of my gunsmiths frowned at it recently when looking over a problem, about twenty years ago I added a thin layer of JB Weld to the back of my trigger.  Other than receiving the frown, I haven't noticed any detriment since I applied it.

I've not done this, but it should be straightforward to solder steel shim stock to end of the trigger bow.  There is no stress involved, so a low temperature silver solder would be sufficient.  The two main points would be to get a very smooth polish on it after soldering, and to not try to take out all of the take-up.  There has to be some slack in a 1911 trigger to allow the disconnector to function correctly.  I have many times soldered a small piece of shim stock to the "front" of the trigger bow and then filed it to get the amount of slack required with minimum take-up.  But this slightly changes the trigger length.  I'm surprised you can feel that much difference in trigger length.

I use a fine cutoff wheel and cut a slot into the front of the trigger bow. I bend the newly created tab forward until I get around 0.020" take up/slack (measured with pistol assembled). Takes less than 10 minutes.
Jon

I place a spot of tig on the front.. I can then place the trigger in the surface grinder and control the amount of take off in "tenths"  to achieve the clearance I want.. I personally never worried about take up when I was shooting.. I liked a fair amount, as I could play the trigger.. Now the lady shooter wants absolute minimum.. I am amazed her gun runs with so little clearance..I set the center leaf of the sear spring purposely heavy.. First, it's good insurance, and second, I like a strong reset..  

For me take up is like free weight. If the take up adds #1 to #1.25 to a #3 trigger I figure I am really shooting a 3.5 trigger with no problems making weight. I do not know if that makes any sense but that is how I think about it. 

Thus removing the creep is what makes the 1911 target trigger. 

I once had a #4 trigger I adjusted and it had almost no take up. George Carrel did some work on my pistol and said not enough take up makes the 1911 more likely to go full auto. 

I don't know if that is true?

Since I build a variety of brands, take up is never the same. I recently did a .22 conversion frame that had 0.020" initially with no modification (2# pull). I just did a JEM frame that had 0.040" (3.5# pull) before I modified the trigger bow. In my opinion initial take up is slack until it stops. It's not part of the felt pull, so roll or crisp trigger is independent of take up. Yes if you put lots of center sear leaf spring pressure on it, it will feel different. I consider excessive take up wasted motion, but that's just me )
Will shorter or longer take up it make you shoot better? Doubtful, you just get used to it and have a personal preference.
Jon

Ed Hall wrote:Although one of my gunsmiths frowned at it recently when looking over a problem, about twenty years ago I added a thin layer of JB Weld to the back of my trigger.  Other than receiving the frown, I haven't noticed any detriment since I applied it.

:-)

Chip

thanks for the replies I will try a few things and see how they do.

all my old Clarks had the shim silver soldered on the back of the bow then ground for clearance.

I've always done what Jerry does and just put the weld spot on the front and grind it.