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Roll Trigger?

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Post by Tim:H11 12/25/2015, 8:53 am

a fair amount of shooters have recomened getting the roll trigger from KC. I'm not familiar with a roll trigger. Can anyone describe the feel of it? How much travel does it have before breaking? I'm considering ordering the tear drop kit from KC and being done with this trigger madness. My springer is set up to about 4 pounds and it's clean and crisp with a snitch of travel. I'm used to my S&W M41 clean, crisp and no travel trigger. Love it. My Ruger MKIII has a little bit of a roll to it - or it feels like what I might describe a roll trigger as. It's kind of nice. It feels a little lighter than the gauge says it is. Can anyone fill me in on a roll trigger? 

P.S. MERRY CHRISTMAS!  santa
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Post by Rob Kovach 12/25/2015, 8:59 am

There are about 20 threads on this topic already. You should read those as well.
Crisp is applying the pressure on the trigger, feeling no movement until the glass rod breaks and the gun fires.

Roll is where you feel the trigger moving a certain distance until the hammer falls.

Creep is like a roll except it's gritty or scratchy or the same amount of pressure gets the movement going at different unpredictable rates.
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Post by Tim:H11 12/25/2015, 9:20 am

So a roll is consistent then.
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Post by dronning 12/25/2015, 9:59 am

Tim:H11 wrote: It feels a little lighter than the gauge says it is.

+ 1 on what Rob said.

Also your comment about feeling lighter is right on.  To me the triggers that KC did on the guns he built feel like they are under 2lbs but they both test the correct weight.  I am actually considering adding some weight to each trigger.  The 3 kits of KC's I've installed myself are great too.

- Dave
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Post by Tim:H11 12/25/2015, 10:06 am

Battle axe vs tear drop? Liking the way the dear drop looks but with the lighter battle axe does it help in lock/firing time?
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Post by dronning 12/25/2015, 10:34 am

Tim:H11 wrote:Battle axe vs tear drop? Liking the way the dear drop looks but with the lighter battle axe does it help in lock/firing time?

When I bought mine there was only the battle AXE and CMP.  I have one CMP and the others are all battle AXE.  I really like the looks of the teardrop, but the Battle AXE is unique.

It's a personal choice. I don't think the lock time difference would be that big a deal.

- Dave
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Post by Tim:H11 12/25/2015, 10:38 am

The KC trigger kits I'm assuming don't need any work done to the sear or hammer hooks correct? Just possibly spring benindg/tuning?

Dronning when you installed yours what was needed to have a finished product?


Last edited by Tim:H11 on 12/25/2015, 10:40 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Additional question)
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Post by Chris Miceli 12/25/2015, 12:22 pm

Kc sends a little instruction paper on somethings to test after install.  It just drops right in and bend your sear spring to the LB you want.
He also recommends some lube.  TW25B 
 

I went with the tear drop cause it looks good

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Post by dronning 12/25/2015, 7:36 pm

No sear or hammer work required.

I would never say there is such a thing as a "drop in kit" even if I was lucky enough to have one.  Any  "kit" must be fit to the gun.  You may have to clearance issues either your grip or thumb safety.  Those are the 2 things that usually are impacted, I was lucky on mine.  The mods are very simple if needed.

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