Dillon powder funnel sticking

When i reload my 45 on my 550b  new brass or super clean brass tends to stick on the powder funnel below the bell. It can get a little violent on the press to get it unstuck. I end up having to scotch brite the funnel to get the brass streaks off of it.  That  will last for a bit then starts sticking sooner or later.   Anyone having this issue?

I tumble my brass in cob and a little cleaner that leaves them clean and slick.

You can try dipping a few in graphite

Hornady One Shot case lube?
I give a very slight mist on a large pile

Christopher Miceli wrote:When i reload my 45 on my 550b  new brass or super clean brass tends to stick on the powder funnel below the bell. It can get a little violent on the press to get it unstuck. I end up having to scotch brite the funnel to get the brass streaks off of it.  That  will last for a bit then starts sticking sooner or later.   Anyone having this issue?

Spray on case lube will help the problem. It also helps the sizing operation when using new brass.

when you clean your brass try adding a cap full of Liquid Nu Finish car wax... it helps polish the brass and leaves a bit of polish on the cases...

will do, i was thinking i might try and a bit off the funnel below the bell where its sticking.  But i will give these ideas a try first.

IF YOU CONTACT STARLINE. THEY WILL RESHAPE YOUR POWDER DROP/FLAIR TO REDUCE / ELIMINATE THE PROBLEM. THEY DO THE 9MM ALSO. IT'S IN THEIR FAQS. JP

Starline polished my flare. It helped but did not solve the problem completely. Like Steve Samelak and BE Mike I mist the clean cases with Hornady Case Lube. It works.

A spritz of Dillon case lube before loading. I let that dry for some period between an hour and a couple of days and then reload. This is particularly important with NEW brass and handy with Wet tumbled brass as well.

I've had the same problem ever since I got the 550. I think I'm going to give one of these a try:  http://www.cedhk.com/shop/products/Mr.BulletFeeder-by-DAA-Powder-Funnel-for-Pistol.html
It's supposed to be contoured like the Lyman M die.

I use the "don't force it use a bigger hammer" technique. New brass almost always sticks when I expand the case and drop powder in. I use a Lee classic turret press but the problem is the same. I solved (for a value of solve) the problem by moving a small wood box in front of the press. If I have a stuck case I am able to put my foot on the box and use my leg to help raise the arm smoothly. The smooth application of brute force. I suppose I should try one of the above mentioned methods of lubrication but this has always worked for me. YMMV

Len

Len, it's old school "leverage"

something you re-discover in your "advanced" years

Leverage is my solution of last resort. But, since I have been lubing the cases I haven't really needed it.

Ordered a tapered power funnel , and have the dillon funnel off to starline.  I'm just lazy and don't want to lube cases

Sorry Christopher to be the bearer of bad news. I bought the DAA funnel. It was better but I still ended up lubing the brass.

i went with one made by this seller for 45acp  

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Pistol-Powder-Funnel-for-Dillon-450-550-650-For-Tall-Cases-/321979329873?hash=item4af776ad51:g:0W8AAOSwa-dWm-Ae

hopefully it works...if not i will be lubing cases it seems

It's not like doing rifle cases.
A quick mist over a couple hundred cases is all it takes.

A little goes a looooong way

jmdavis wrote:A spritz of Dillon case lube before loading. I let that dry for some period between an hour and a couple of days and then reload. This is particularly important with NEW brass and handy with Wet tumbled brass as well.

Does it completely dry with no flakes sticking to the sides? I ended up sending my powder through expander to starline for the mod and it helped, but on unfired brass I still got galling and plating of the die still. I have this problem with the lyman M die with new brass too. I used hornady one shot on some .357 brass and it never dried....got lots of powder sticking to the sides.

The problem goes away if you tumble your new or obsessively cleaned cases in corn cob or walnut media.  The small amount of media dust, or in the case of fired brass burnt powder residue is enough to stop the galling at the size die and at the expander.  And it's free.

Dave C.

Otiso wrote:

jmdavis wrote:A spritz of Dillon case lube before loading. I let that dry for some period between an hour and a couple of days and then reload. This is particularly important with NEW brass and handy with Wet tumbled brass as well.

Does it completely dry with no flakes sticking to the sides? I ended up sending my powder through expander to starline for the mod and it helped, but on unfired brass I still got galling and plating of the die still. I have this problem with the lyman M die with new brass too. I used hornady one shot on some .357 brass and it never dried....got lots of powder sticking to the sides.

JMO if the one-shot didn't dry, you used too much
I layout enough cases to cover a Frisbee & give it just a quick shot & don't do it again for abt 500 cases.

I do a quick spray on the cases on their side and then shake them up for a minute and let it dry. You don't really get lube inside the case, with the exception of a little on the lip and that area doesn't get powder. 

If you spray inside the cases (i.e. cases turned up rather than on their side, you could suffer from powder sticking. It doesn't take much lube.

In almost 30 years of running my 1050, I haven't  had that problem... But, if I did, and it persisted even after polishing to a mirror finish, I would set the funnel up and increase the angel a degree or two at a time until it alleviated the problem.. My funnels are measuring at 15 degrees on the side..

This is after i took a scotchbrite pad to it. You can kinda see the lines where it is catching.

Oh.. I see how that can create a problem..This is  an old 1050 part