note to self

It's been almost 20 years since I had to replace a Sear spring or Hammer spring in a 45. I went to do so the other night and spent a couple of hours in frustration because I forgot something key to the process. Removing the safety and grip safety makes it all come together. I must have tried it without removing them 10 times, each time having the trigger stick, the gun not cock, or both,  before I stopped, googled it and and then went AHHHH. 

But now my RO is no longer ILS, I have a much better trigger, with a 19lb mainspring, and a new SS mainspring housing. Its a much better chassis for the Marvel Conversion I recently come into. 


Mike

Assuming your RO is stock and not rebbarreled or modified - If it's a dedicated 22 lower then great. But if you plan to switch back and forth between the 45 and 22 upper then you might find groups with the 45 upper will widen at 50 yards off a rest with that lighter hammer spring. 

Jon told me once that he felt the RO's come out of battery too quickly and that this was one of the contributing factors to more recoil than I preferred. But with what that has to do with this is I think the longer the gun is in battery during the firing process the better your groups will look off a rest at 50 yards. So the heavier mainspring helps slow the slide down or keeps it from flinging back so quick. 

In an experiment with several hammer springs and the bench and my 50 yard load I found heavier springs gave me better results. 

So if you want a frame for both calibers the I think the 45 upper would need to be properly set up to function to its best potential with a lighter mainspring. 

This is all just my thoughts on what I've seen so far tinkering with 1911's. If I'm mistaken then jump in and please educate me. Always looking to learn on this stuff.

My brain is not working. I put in the 21lb spring, not the 19 along with a lighter sear spring.

For now this gun will be 22 only. I plan to add a roll trigger to work with until my 22 frame is ready in 6 months or so.