High Standard Victor - misfeeding. HELP PLEASE

I have a High Standard Victor that has a feeding issue. The rounds come out of the clip and miss the barrel. They either get stuck on the top lip of the barrel or go straight up. Sometimes they don't feed all the way in. I just bought three new clips with no affect and had a smith replace all the springs with no affect. I love the fun and have had it for over twenty years but it just doesn't seem to want to work. Before I spend mucho bucks on a S&W Model 41 can anyone steer me in the right direction? I tried adjusting the threat and lip of the clips and now have three totally useless clips. Any assistance would be highly appreciated. Thank you

I have a M107 that has the best trigger of any of my .22's but....same issue. I have 1 magazine that works about 99%. Red base. All I can say is I sympathize.....

I bought the tool, I adjusted tweaked and bent. I tore my hair out. I sent them to Roddy Toyota and he adjusted them for a couple bucks each. They work great now. He did mention that if I found ammo that works I should stay with it. There is a lot of different shaped ammo out there and some of it will not work no matter how good he person is that adjusts the mags. Oh, and most of the new mags are junk and won't hold their shape long. I have 2 oldies and 2 new ones but just have the new ones in reserve.

Len

I had to do this with my 4 aftermarket HS mags to get them to work properly.  Lucky for me I still had the original mag to measure from.

http://www.histandard.info/Jim_Barta/HS-MAGSHIM.pdf

http://www.histandard.info/Jim_Barta/hsclip.pdf

Beside the above I had to solder on more material onto the base plate.  The newer mags were thinner at the base plate and the overall length of the mag was a bit short.  Because of this the mags sat down about 1/16 " to low when inserted in the gun.  Adding material to the base plate added length and got rid of the sloppy up and down movement of the aftermarket mags.  In the first link above , by doing this it got rid of the slop front to back when inserted from the shorter width of the aftermarket mags.  As a side note I glued the "22" shim  1/2" from the top and also added one near the bottom of the front of the mag about 1/2" from the base plate to stop it from rocking when inserted.


This helped tremendously with mine.  YMMV but it's worth a try and cost nothing but some time.  If it works it sure beats trying to find old HS mags.


Virgil

You know how to make a grown man cry, drop his working High Standard magazine!

You might just want to take it to a professional.  http://www.derrprecision.com/

Greg is in your state, don't know if he is near you but this might be the quickest means to an end. At least call and talk to him about your situation.

A few years ago I searched out, found, and paid dearly for a Mike Curtis High Standard. He used a custom blank and integrated a feed ramp into the barrel with a notch in the frame. I can use any magazine, even the green follower ones, but the pistol was pricey. It was actually much cheaper than most Model 41's, but more than the usual Victor. Fixing your magazines will certainly be cheaper than buying a Model 41.

I have two old genny HS mags that are spot on, and never falter... I have shoot many diferent types of SV ammo, and it likes it all... I have two others that always jam....  P

Is there a preferred clip supplier or do all HS clips require tweaking?

david sams sells a tuning tool if you don't want to send them off.

http://www.samscustomgunworksusa.com/partstoolsforsale.html

Red bottom original High Standard magazines are considered to be the best starting point. Gunsmiths with the magic touch can make other ones work though. But like someone above said, the red bottoms seems to hold the tune the longest.

BTW: you are using standard velocity ammunition, right?

Correct. Standard Velocity.

I have original magazines adjusted by LtC Miller who learned he said from Joe Benner.  I have since been able to adjust my own to perfection and also learned a lot from Lou Lombardi.  If your magazines are original , either red bottom or metal bottom, put a little squeeze on the round with the front lips.  Keep these lips parallel.  Make sure the rim releases from the rears .79-.81 from the barrel.  Check the rears against what Barta wrote.  And put a very slight bevel on the bottom edge of the chamber opening.  Very slight, just knock off any snag edge.  Make sure the underside of the rears have no burrs.  And hopefully last, make sure there is enough room low between the front and rear lips for the rim to tip as the nose of the round rises.  (I have seen this problem only one time in over 40 years)  Also consider a new Volq extractor and be willing to play with its spring strength.  Of course clean and smoothe mag operation is important as well.  The new mag offerings from Alan Aronstein work great in my slant grip.  I have some of his Mil grip too, but have not had time to work with them.  Originals are best either way. 

I only have 13 HS  Models 102-107 now.  About half are original collectable, 3 shooters, 2 Giles, and 2 Lombardi.

Jack,
Is Lombardi still in business? Seems like after he moved his shop, 10 or 12 years ago, I never heard about his work any more.
Great advice on the magazines, I've never that detailed in one document.

The right ammo plus you need to turn down the front corners of the rear lips. Once you get it right, shoot only the same ammo.

robert84010 wrote:Jack,
Is Lombardi still in business? Seems like after he moved his shop, 10 or 12 years ago, I never heard about his work any more.
Great advice on the magazines, I've never that detailed in one document.

Not that I know about.  I think he told me had zoning problems for business in a shop at his new home.  Somewhere I have pictures of his new house being built.  That was some years back of course. 

I ought to Ransom my 2 Lou guns and the 2 Giles.

Rob Kovach wrote:The right ammo plus you need to turn down the front corners of the rear lips. Once you get it right, shoot only the same ammo.

In my properly adjusted red bottom magazines, I can't recall a SV ammo that doesn't feed.  I think there is another thing about the feeding of HS even the older ones.  The pre CNC work that made them, and especially how HS quality went downhill, leaves a wide range for tolerance stack of the barrel to frame, frame to magazine, maybe even stud to plunger.  When the range of tolerance of any one thing comes near it's extreme, the other parts might not match up in some way.  It is rather rare to have some problem feeders that far out of wack until the very end in the SH era.  I have seen a couple SH guns that I could not make feed.  Then there was the 1980 Olympic that could not fire because the hammer clearance under the slide was not enough. 

On the Barta adjustment of the rear lips.  I disagree that the rear lip adjustment is the only thing to do.  In fact I believe the cartridge flank never touches the tip of the rears during a feed.  Consider that the slide is pushing forward on the rim at the top.  Therefore the nose of the round is actually levered down keeping the flank off the above lips while the nose of the bullet rides up the feed ramp.  Bending the rears down too much messes up the rim to slide action.  Someday I intend to file a taper into the rear lips as a trial to see if the rim will move up the slide face better.  If you question this, consider how shorts feed....

I took these measurement  from  my  High Standard Magazines,  107 Military grip gun.  

My best mags measure .220 at the front lips.  .183-.187 at the front of the rears.

Jack H wrote:My best mags measure .220 at the front lips.  .183-.187 at the front of the rears.

What model High Standard? Or doesn't it matter?

243winxb wrote:

Jack H wrote:My best mags measure .220 at the front lips.  .183-.187 at the front of the rears.

What model High Standard? Or doesn't it matter?

102-107