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Dillon 550 conversion question

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Magload
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Chris Miceli
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Post by kjanracing Thu Aug 10, 2017 7:44 pm

I'm currently loading .45ACP on my 550. I just bought a conversion kit for .38 spl. My question is: does the primer tube need to be empty before I switch it out? Does it hold the primers, or will they spill out when I remove the large primer tube to switch to the small one?  Thanks, Kurt
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Post by Chris Miceli Thu Aug 10, 2017 7:51 pm

They will spill in the primer tube and jam up the primer bar if you pull the tube straight out with all those primers in it. 

That's been my experience

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Post by gregbenner Thu Aug 10, 2017 9:46 pm

Chris Miceli wrote:They will spill in the primer tube and jam up the primer bar if you pull the tube straight out with all those primers in it. 

That's been my experience
 Mine too

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Post by Multiracer Fri Aug 11, 2017 2:51 am

Cycle the loader until empty. Then change caliber conversion.

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Post by Chris Miceli Fri Aug 11, 2017 3:18 am

kjanracing wrote:I'm currently loading .45ACP on my 550. I just bought a conversion kit for .38 spl. My question is: does the primer tube need to be empty before I switch it out? Does it hold the primers, or will they spill out when I remove the large primer tube to switch to the small one?  Thanks, Kurt
you have to unbolt the primer system to put the smaller primer bar in, could unbolt it it then turn it upside down and pull the primer tube out, never tried it.

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Post by CR10X Fri Aug 11, 2017 4:16 am

Its easier and quicker to just get another complete primer assembly, same for 650.  May not be cheaper at first, but for the time saved over the years you will not regret it. Keep eye on e-bay and estate yard sales for a used ones.

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Post by jglenn21 Fri Aug 11, 2017 6:42 am

Or just buy another 550 Cool

I  ended up with 3 of them by keeping an eye out on local forums.
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Post by Magload Fri Aug 11, 2017 9:13 am

I got tired of switching and loaded 45 small primer brass for a long time.  The indoor range collects brass and reloads it or sells the brass but they didn't load small primer 45 so I got it cheap.  Don
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Post by Tim:H11 Fri Aug 11, 2017 10:08 am

Not gonna help you much but I use a Lee three hole turret for 38 special since I'm only loading 38 for DR right now. I don't need a lot of it. Not like 45. 45 I load on a 550. I'm still new to the 550 so if it was me I would not want to risk spilling my valuable primers everywhere. I'd cycle the machine and pull those primers out one at a time. Wont take long. Or load 45 till no more primers. I only put 100 primers in it at a time and I run it till it's empty. I never have primers sitting in the machine unused.
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Post by expendable Fri Aug 11, 2017 10:18 am

CR10X wrote:Its easier and quicker to just get another complete primer assembly, same for 650.  May not be cheaper at first, but for the time saved over the years you will not regret it. Keep eye on e-bay and estate yard sales for a used ones.

I found that it is easier to just swap out the primer punch,cup and spring and leave the same bar installed.
loosen one allen key swap those out and change the tube size and done.

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Post by hp246 Wed Sep 06, 2017 11:55 am

If this needs a new thread, lot me know.  Considering using my 550B for .38 HBWC.  As I understand it, one of the downsides is belling the case mouth deep enough to seat the bullet.  For those using the 550, have you encountered any problems belling the case?  I have a RCBS 18306 3 die set, is this sufficient for the HBWC?  Thanks.

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Post by Chris Miceli Wed Sep 06, 2017 12:26 pm

hp246 wrote:If this needs a new thread, lot me know.  Considering using my 550B for .38 HBWC.  As I understand it, one of the downsides is belling the case mouth deep enough to seat the bullet.  For those using the 550, have you encountered any problems belling the case?  I have a RCBS 18306 3 die set, is this sufficient for the HBWC?  Thanks.
As far as i know the belling helps get the bullet in the case, the expansion down can be adjusted by using custom expanders

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Post by Rob Kovach Wed Sep 06, 2017 2:41 pm

The Dillon expander that I have does a good job--the bullets fall almost all the way to my seating depth.
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Post by jglenn21 Wed Sep 06, 2017 3:28 pm

I actually had a custom made powder funnel made for the HBWCs. it has a very long section for the bullet body
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Post by hp246 Wed Sep 06, 2017 3:30 pm

jglenn21 wrote:I actually had a custom made powder funnel made for the HBWCs. it has a very long section for the bullet body
You have me intrigued.  HOw much des something like that cost and where did you have it made?

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Post by jglenn21 Wed Sep 06, 2017 3:39 pm

mine was made by GScustom.. he is on Ebay and sells M style powder funnels for Dillons as well as other items

I simply messaged him asking about a custom funnel.

I don't recall exactly how much it was but somewhere around 60 I bet

http://www.ebay.com/itm/40-S-W-M-style-powder-funnel-powder-die-for-Dillon-RL550-XL-650-RL-1050-/322104704707?hash=item4afeefbec3:g:M4oAAOSwZJlXMrEF
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Post by Chris Miceli Wed Sep 06, 2017 4:50 pm

i paid 30? for one from that guy in colorodo that makes those spring testers

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Post by jglenn21 Wed Sep 06, 2017 4:55 pm

might have been that Chris.. been a while. he sells the normal M style for around 23 or so
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Post by kjanracing Wed Sep 06, 2017 6:05 pm

I've loaded a few hunerd rounds of .38spl HBWC using Zero bullets. The beller/ powder die works great. I do just enough bell that the bullet will sit and start in the case. I seat almost flush, leaving about two CHs of bullet for the roll crimp to grab onto. They work great in my 52-2 at that COL. If I seat flush and roll crimp over the end of the bullet, the bullet will fall into the cast without much help. Maybe a taper crimp would work better with flush seating, but the way I'm doing it is working just fine.
Kurt
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