Appropriate loads for a particular weight recoil spring.

First topic message reminder :

Guys,

I am having a Kart Xact NM barrel installed on my Series 70 Gold Cup.   What I would like to pick your brains for is this.   I want mild loads such as are used in Bullseye competition, although I won't be using it for such.   I will be using a 200gr H&G 68 clone at an OAL of 1.250" and have the following powders: Bullseye, 700X, Solo 1000, AA#2, and W231.   I have the following weight springs: 16#, 14#, 12#, and 10#.   Can someone please give me charge weights that are suitable for a particular weight recoil spring?   Thanks in advance for your reply.

Don

Bu USSR wrote:Sorry Dave, but I was being more truthful than Jon.   I specifically stated that my gun would not be used for Bullseye competition.   Regarding the "huge difference".  You can make that case for a gun purpose built from the ground up to be a Bullseye gun, but to try to make the case that only a Bullseye smith can properly install a barrel that the manufacturer states can be installed by the casual shooter in 1 hour is just plain snobbery.   And I have zero tolerence for snobs.

Don

Why would you come to a bullseye forum and ask us bullseye people about accurate pistols if yo're not using it for bullseye work?

If your doing 25yard work or less no need to do any work to your stock gun. 

As someone famous said before...only accurate guns are interesting.

My 5" iron sight  load is 4.2n310 zero 185jhp and a 14lb spring or 3.8BE 200lswc

The EGW FP stop first of all tightens up the fit of the extractor to prevent canting which can give you fits on feeding as well as extracting.

secondly it allows you to profile the bottom to whatever radius you like.. this controls where the part hits the hammer face and if left fairly square can help with "felt" recoil as it delays slide moment a bit. Not something you'd use on a wad gun. as you want a smoother transition.. total opposite of the Cammer style hammer.

I do use the small radius on EIC pistols or a daily carry gun.

jglenn21 wrote:The EGW FP stop first of all tightens up the fit of the extractor to prevent canting which can give you fits on feeding as well as extracting.

secondly it allows you to profile the bottom to whatever radius you like.. this controls where the part hits the hammer face and if left fairly square can help with "felt" recoil as it delays slide moment a bit. Not something you'd use on a wad gun. as you want a smoother transition.. total opposite of the Cammer style hammer.

I do use the small radius on EIC pistols or a daily carry gun.

The firing pin stop radius plus mainspring weight and lock up all work together to slow down the initial slide movement.  WAD gun should have a large radius stop with a 19-23lb mainspring.  I run 17-19 mainsprings & 8-14 recoil springs depending on the gun & load, all but one are large radius firing pin stops.
- Dave

Chris Miceli wrote:

Bu USSR wrote:Sorry Dave, but I was being more truthful than Jon.   I specifically stated that my gun would not be used for Bullseye competition.   Regarding the "huge difference".  You can make that case for a gun purpose built from the ground up to be a Bullseye gun, but to try to make the case that only a Bullseye smith can properly install a barrel that the manufacturer states can be installed by the casual shooter in 1 hour is just plain snobbery.   And I have zero tolerence for snobs.

Don

Why would you come to a bullseye forum and ask us bullseye people about accurate pistols if yo're not using it for bullseye work?

If your doing 25yard work or less no need to do any work to your stock gun. 

As someone famous said before...only accurate guns are interesting.

My 5" iron sight  load is 4.2n310 zero 185jhp and a 14lb spring

Ah, the nerve of me coming on your site, wanting to find the best spring weight to match light target loads, and not wanting to be a Bullseye shooter.   So, if I am doing 25 yard work or less, I don't need an "interesting" gun?   Thanks for the load/spring info.

Don

Here is what I would do...put the 12# spring in and try out several loads when you get it back. Start at 4.0 BE and work your way down.  3.8 etc...  Try the same loads with 700X. If you do not like the results.  Put in the 10# spring and start over.  See how low you can go with it locking up and ejecting properly.

now one will be able to tell you exactly what to load with out trying it out.

Toz35m wrote:Here is what I would do...put the 12# spring in and try out several loads when you get it back. Start at 4.0 BE and work your way down.  3.8 etc...  Try the same loads with 700X. If you do not like the results.  Put in the 10# spring and start over.  See how low you can go with it locking up and ejecting properly.

now one will be able to tell you exactly what to load with out trying it out.

Sounds like a plan.   Thanks much Toz35m.

Don