Ziebarted some HBWC to minimize leading

I have been loading 38 Special Wadcutters for a S&W M52 and also to use for revolver practice. I load 38 Special Wadcutters on a Dillon Square Deal B with 38 Super sizing die and a custom powder drop for expanding for a Magnus 514 HBWC to keep the swaged bullet OD as big as possible. The wadcutter seater was narrowed in a lathe to fit in the case to compensate for long brass. I deprime using a Lee carbide 38 Super sizing die on another press before wet tumbling to clean the brass.

Since I was experiencing some leading ahead of the chamber or throat of all my 38 barrels I decided to tumble lube the bullets following the advice of several experienced members on this forum. First I made 100 rounds using Lee Liquid Alox and then another batch with White Label 45-45-10.

I think I put both products on a little thick on both runs as the coating gave the bullets a 0.360" OD on a bullet that measures stock at 0.358" with Magnus's lube. I was surprised that seating the bullets did not shear the lube off and the finished Starline brass cartridges had a 0.378" OD after crimping. Not messy to handle or load after drying.

Shooting these loads in two S&W revolvers that had reamed cylinder throats and Taylor throated forcing cones showed no lead build up anymore in the cylinder throats or in the barrels. At 25 yards Slow Fire shots I called good were good like when shooting a 22.

I was very happy with both lube products and I think I will add the LLA into the 45-45-10 as I use up the product. I will also update this thread with my S&W M52 results.

No plans yet to sell my Lewis Lead Remover kit.

Steve,  you'll find you have to add a touch of Mineral spirits as you go to as it evaporates.


everyone uses too much the first few times out.

LLA: If you can SEE it on the bullet, you've used about 10X more than needed. It forms a very strong barrier coat, but most people think more lube the better.
I put my LLA in hot water, place 200-500 of my cast bullets in a glass casserole pan and set them on their side, squirt a little "Z" of warm LLA over the bullets and shuffle/rotate the bullets around for 30-60 seconds. I stop and inspect and make sure every bullet has a shiny/glistening/wet look and that's that.
When dry, they just look like unlubed bullets, so they go in a labeled box. 
I do this also when my commercial bullets show any leading.
I haven't used any LLA in about 5 years, but when/if I do, I'll also be looking at 45/45/10.

jglenn21 wrote:Steve,  you'll find you have to add a touch of Mineral spirits as you go to as it evaporates.


everyone uses too much the first few times out.

Yea, what he said . And its a great inexpensive product. Less time scraping lead means more time reloading !

Been away for a while and just getting back into Bullseye shooting and need some more info on what you are coating your lead bullets with since I haven't heard of Ziebart or LLA. Any info would be appreciated.

Ziebart.. you need to be of a "certain age" to appreciate the joke.
LLA.... Led Liquid Alox bullet coating
45/45/10....a refinement on the LLA formula.

The 45-45-10 can be found at white label lubes

Almost nobody in Texas would know what Ziebart is.....but I did grad school in Cleveland, so......

Dr.Don wrote:Almost nobody in Texas would know what Ziebart is.....but I did grad school in Cleveland, so......

Household name around here. They actually did a really good job at first.

Earl Sheib,...

james r chapman wrote:Earl Sheib,...

I didn't paint them, I just rust-proofed them.

(Former Ypsi resident)

===

Thanks for the replies. I need to refine my technique on the application. I like the pistols and like the bullets, plus it is a fun cartridge when all the details are sorted out.

2.7 of WST, BTW. Why re-invent the wheel(gun)?

james r chapman wrote:Earl Sheib,...

I'll paint any car.....29.95 no ups no extras.

Yep, lol
And a fifth in the trunk.