Ed's Red Cleaning for Revolver Leading on Cylinder?

Does anyone use Ed's Red on their revolvers? I'm always fighting getting a little leading off the cylinder and I think there has to be a better way. Wondering if Ed's Red is the thing to use, or maybe... ? Open to suggestions for cleaners on blued revolvers to help with minor leading.

Kroil has always been good to me.

https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/patches-mops/lead-remover/lewis-lead-remover-prod21587.aspx

Best chamber cleaner there is. caliber specific. This was proven to me by an old time revolver guy. I thought my cylinder was clean.....HAH !

Multiracer wrote:

Best chamber cleaner there is. caliber specific. This was proven to me by an old time revolver guy. I thought my cylinder was clean.....HAH !

Thanks- I meant more of the vaporized lead depositing on the cylinder flutes (exterior of pistol, not in barrel or chamber) than inside the revolver- or maybe it is just hard carbon, but it is always a bear to get rid of.

IF ITS A STAINLESS STEEL GUN USE A LEAD WIPE AWAY CLOTH. BUT NOT ON BLUE GUN . IT WILL REMOVE THE BLUING. JP

Iosso GunBrite worked very good for me on blued cylinders.

Chris Miceli wrote:Kroil has always been good to me.

This is what I use.  Let it soak a while, maybe overnight.

So I shouldn't use my Arkansas tooth pick? Good question. I wondered what was the best way to get these removed.

Kroil and a light hand with a copper brush.

The last time I made any; Ed's Red was acetone, ATF, kerosene, and mineral spirits (paint thinner).  ATF and acetone are legendary internet components of penetrating oil.  So, Ed's Red should work well.  I stopped using Ed's Red when I found Kroil. 
 
I am constantly amazed by Kroils properties (both positive and negative).  Never again will I be worried about using epoxy, red Loctite, or retaining fluid when Kroil is available.  The only limitation to using Kroil is that it requires a bit of common sense and some patience.  Less is more when using Kroil.

I strip the cylinder of all parts and submerge it in Hoppes.  It will take a couple days but Hoppes will slowly and safely eat all the lead away.

+1 on Kroil.  It will permeate it's way into or under whatever it is and will make it easy to remove.  First learned about Kroil a long time ago from some Model T restorers.
- Dave

As Multiracer says - the Lewis Lead Remover is the proven way to clean revolver cylinders and barrels of leading. 

Kroil works well on the exterior of blued and stainless guns.

As far as penetrating oil, this is interesting:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/ot-penetrating-oil-196347/

Yes acetone and Dextron works very well on rusty stuff.. I still use Kroil on my barrel bores..

Hoppes #9 and a a stiff toothbrush has always worked for me on blued cylinders.

I've used 50% Hydrogen Peroxide and 50% white vinegar and put it in a mason jar. Then strip the cylinder and hang it from a wire submerged in the solution keeping it off the bottom of jar where the crud lays.
 DO NOT USE ON BLUED FINISHES only Stainless, and soak only for less than 5 minutes at a time, otherwise you''ll get some slight etching. Swab out the chambers, the solution turns the lead black.
 I don't use this method much anymore, I use Kroil and or brass wool now. Kroil is good stuff.
 Stan

Kroil works well. However, when you are getting bad lead deposits on the outside of the cylinder it is usually caused by misalignment with the bore and/or an un-square forcing cone. Lead shaving. I would solve the underlying problem.