Revolver brass

Does anyone use the +P brass that is a bit thicker internally for reloading revolver ammunition in 38 special and 45 ACP ?

I do not. I use winchester brass for both 38 Special and 45 ACP.

Starline 38s same.

45acp different.  Starline

45 ACP+P, 45 Automatic+P
0.892 - 0.897 O.A.L.
The 45 Auto+P is a strengthened version of the 45 Auto with the same external dimensions. A thicker web and heavier sidewall at base strengthens the case in potentially unsupported areas. This case has approximately 2 grains less internal water capacity than the standard 45 Auto.

I use standard in target loads.

The 45 Auto+P is a strengthened version of the 45 Auto with the same external dimensions. A thicker web and heavier sidewall at base strengthens the case in potentially unsupported areas. This case has approximately 2 grains less internal water capacity than the standard 45 Auto.

This is exactly why I am asking this question....

If you’re loading a 158 Lead bullet, you can load them in +P for practice ammo. Hard Cast or jacketed it won’t matter. But I segregate by headstamp including “+P” designator.

I have used the +P brass in my 38 special wc loads, don't notice a difference with my skill level.  They do seem slightly thicker and are usually nickel plated and don't seem to last as long.  Not very scientific but when your wobble area is as big as mine it does not matter.  Also for the 38 special I am shooting a revolver so function is not an issue.

For .38 Special in my S&W Model 14 I use WW, R-P or Federal wadcutter brass because I seat my hollow base wadcutters deep.   For .45 ACP in my S&W 25-2 I use R-P brass which is thin, because I am seating .455" bullets due to the large throats typically found in these revolvers.

Don

The Starline 38 Special brass stamped with +P is simply for keeping track of loads. The cases are identical to the normal 38 Special cases.