Guide rod question

Have a 22 conversion now so looking for a good 2 piece guide rod for my 45 upper.  Makes it easier to swap out with conversion.  Any suggestions on what’s good or not good?  Thinking brownells or any suggestions where to order.

Thanks

EGW two piece in S/S from Brownells. That's all you need.

EGW one piece works as well. 

I’ve read the one piece are a pain in the fanny to get in or out.  Dose t seem that way from the pics Chris

Wilson Combat also makes a 1 piece that is super easy to swap out. It is all in how they make the spring retainer. By making it recessed they can make the guide rod 1/8" aprox shorter and everything fits. I changed all my 1911 to them.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/683445/wilson-combat-1-piece-full-length-recoil-spring-guide-rod-with-recoil-spring-plug-1911-government-stainless-steel

Thanks Len.

BTW:
Jon Eulette recommends a 2 piece FLGR for guns with a tight barrel-bushing fit to drop the barrel out of battery to make removal easier and relieve tension on the barrel-bushing fit to avoid any damage to either barrel or bushing. Otherwise per LOG MAN on other forums on a 1 piece FLGR you have to either buy a FLGR with a "capture" hole in it or drill a "capture" hole in the FLGR to unlock the barrel from battery. I believe that Jon installed a 2 piece EGW FLGR in my SA TGO1. Just passing this along.

Thanks Gary I think the one piece Wilson should be fine for my pretty stock RO.  But good info

Len,
Can you turn the bushing by taking the barrel out of battery with the Wilson FLGR?
Thanks,
Jeff

JNW1 wrote:Len,
Can you turn the bushing by taking the barrel out of battery with the Wilson FLGR?
Thanks,
Jeff

Yes. One of the main reasons I like them.

Mine is on the way...woohoooo

I just got my Wilson FLGR.  It’s the exact same length as the one in my Dan Wesson PM9 and I can not take it out with the slide on or off without turning my bushing with the barrel in battery.  Am I doing something wrong?
Thanks,
Jeff

I recently got a WC FLGR.  Having shot the standard GI previously I must say it is a mild pain, but probably a necessity if a dedicated lower isn't in the cards with the conversion. I noticed the one I got needed to be polished with 600 grit and buffing wheel (rod and the ID of the bushing) - otherwise it seemed to create a rubbing sound and create some added resistance. As received, not really smooth with a sort of frosted finish.  After polish and extra lube it seems much better.  As others have stated the WC unit does seem definitely doable but way less cooperative than standard short GI as Browning intended.  As soon as I get my dedicated lower worked out the FLGR is going to the land of lost toys.

Yea mine makes that same sound..spring on the guide rod I’m sure.

If you lube/light grease/oil the portion of the frame where the guide rod end sits in it will generally smooth out cycling a tad. I know that most or all of youframs do not Shok Buff your B/E guns but lubing the frame tunnel where the buff sits in also smooth out a tad. Yes, I know, it doesn't sound logical but I notice a difference. Also if the OD of the RS  shows any signs of rubbing against the ID of the frame RS tunnel from bunching up when cycling this also will make noise. It seems to me that I have a couple of guns that do this.

The lube definitely helps but was able to make the sound disappear by making the rod and inside of bushing (where it rubs) mirror smooth.  If you run/rub that rod up and down out of the bushing when taken apart w/o spring it seems to duplicate that sound - or might be the spring running in there to like you say.   It probably isn't a problem but felt the smoother it would run the better so glad I did. I got some Shok Buffs but haven't tried them yet.

WillH:
Could the back end of the guide rod not be sitting down in the channel like it should? It does sound like something is not lining up properly. If you were to Dykem or blackout the OD of the guide rod and the ID of the spring retainer and cycle by hand would that show some rub spots/marks on the guide rod OD? Just a thought.

What is the best way to ream out the recoil spring tunnel in the slide? Some slides will not allow the recoil spring plug to be removed out to the rear to facilitate a FLGR.

8eightring wrote:What is the best way to ream out the recoil spring tunnel in the slide? Some slides will not allow the recoil spring plug to be removed out to the rear to facilitate a FLGR.

You are exactly right, some slides do not allow for removal from the back. That is why I and others recommend a two piece. The one piece will not work as well in some slides and there is no need to modify the slide to use a FLGR.

Gary Wells wrote:WillH:
Could the back end of the guide rod not be sitting down in the channel like it should? It does sound like something is not lining up properly. If you were to Dykem or blackout the OD of the guide rod and the ID of the spring retainer and cycle by hand would that show some rub spots/marks on the guide rod OD? Just a thought.

To follow up I think all is lined up like it needs to be but thanks for the thought. Mine is running real smooth now.  Another trick I've found is to wrap a rubber band around the upper when it's all together - then I'll put it on the lower as far as it will go then remove band to get it all the way. That seems to help things go easier for me when swapping out the uppers.  Still can't wait for the dedicated lower tho

1/2 end mil. Probability ever custom built gun I’ve seen has the modification done