Need a smith fitted kart

thinking of having a kart put in my stock RO, I love the trigger and everything else but feel a kart fitted by a AWESOME smith may be in order.  Not sur what the going rate on that is and I have limited budget.  Checked online for a barrel but can’t seem to find one n stock.  Could be my bench technique but seem to get some vertical stringing at 50 yards.  Went from 11lb to 12 lb spring and seemed to help a little.  Gun functioned fine with 12 lb spring.  9000sc on th slide and 4.0 be and 190 gr swc.  Maybe 13 lb spring?  Maybe bushing only.  I’d really love to not be out my pistol for too too long

A smith fit barrel will run about $600 give or take. I see you're not classified yet. What are your 45 scores? What is your current barrel shooting off sandbags? If you're not breaking 700 and your current barrel is shooting 4-5" off bags I feel like your money could be spent better at this point.

If monies tight go to egw and follow directions on measurements and order a bushing. Will help some for a few bucks till your ready to rebarrel

zanemoseley wrote:A smith fit barrel will run about $600 give or take. I see you're not classified yet. What are your 45 scores? What is your current barrel shooting off sandbags? If you're not breaking 700 and your current barrel is shooting 4-5" off bags I feel like your money could be spent better at this point.

Really!  I’ll get a better test this weekend but it’s easily under 4-5” at 50 yards.  Scores, I have no scores yet.  I do pretty well but hate to say it have not tracked my scores.  Just been practicing right now.  Not sure this helps but at practice today with the be guys, I shot all Xs and 10s at 25

Chris's idea is a very good one. I almost did it myself for a RO I had but I didn't keep the gun long enough. If you go to rebarrel the gun do it over the off shooting season if you're worried about being without it for a while.

Tim:H11 wrote:Chris's idea is a very good one. I almost did it myself for a RO I had but I didn't keep the gun long enough. If you go to rebarrel the gun do it over the off shooting season if you're worried about being without it for a while.

Very sound advice!

Chris Miceli wrote:If monies tight go to egw and follow directions on measurements and order a bushing. Will help some for a few bucks till your ready to rebarrel

Just went and looked...I have no idea what one to begin with.so many options

lablover wrote:

Chris Miceli wrote:If monies tight go to egw and follow directions on measurements and order a bushing. Will help some for a few bucks till your ready to rebarrel

Just went and looked...I have no idea what one to begin with.so many options

I could be wrong but I think you want to look for the angled bore bushing. It comes in different dimensions and I think there is one where you can order it machined to your specific measurements...??? Maybe not. Not sure. I know that if you measure your inside slide diameter, that is your bushings outside diameter measurement. The barrels outside diameter is your bushings inside diameter measurement. So look for a bushing listed with a closely matching inside (bushing inside) diameter and go a little over sized on the bushings outside diameter so you can fit it snuggly to the slide. Should be good to go with that.

Another solution is to get a Kart X-act Fit barrel/bushing kit and the associated tool package for around $250 from Brownells and install one yourself. I installed one in a SA Mil Spec and it turned out great. Took me about 1-1/2 to 2 hours.

I did mine in about 2 hours and it shoots great. It's much faster than waiting for a smith do it and much cheaper. The instructions are easy to follow.

Take Chris's advice. There are instructions on the EGW site for measurements for their angle bored bushing. I've done this to a couple different RO's and it really turned them around. I also use EGW's .200 slide stop pin to tighten up lock up.

Jim

JKR's advice on the slide stop is good advice for any RO. Everyone I've dealt with had a pin size of .195. Very small. Most std pins run .198-199. I always start with a std pin and only move to the 200 when needed.  Save it for wear.

The bushing and slide stop should get you going in the right direction

Wow, I’m really going to have to check that out.  Would love to save the money for sure.  So, not that hard to install?

Also plan on another range season fr the bench work.  Every time I’ve tried I have been rushed sooooo, who knows

JKR wrote:Take Chris's advice. There are instructions on the EGW site for measurements for their angle bored bushing. I've done this to a couple different RO's and it really turned them around. I also use EGW's .200 slide stop pin to tighten up lock up.

Jim

So it’s an angled bushing I need?

lablover wrote:

JKR wrote:Take Chris's advice. There are instructions on the EGW site for measurements for their angle bored bushing. I've done this to a couple different RO's and it really turned them around. I also use EGW's .200 slide stop pin to tighten up lock up.

Jim

So it’s an angled bushing I need?

Yes 
http://www.egwguns.com/bushing-faq

Another range session off the bench today.  With some advice from a highly respected to me high master.  I,have to say she held the 10 ring all day long and saw some round groups.  I’m pretty happy right now.  I will still however check out that egw bushing and slide stop pin..sure can’t hurt anything.

On a side note, tried some 160’s at 50 yards and have to say I’m pretty Impressed..easily held th 10 ring

The cheapest way you can go is have the barrel welded up and refit. Most factory barrels are just as good as a “match barrel when fit correctly. If you do buy a new barrel though carbon steel is the way to go. Clark and Kart are the only 2 I know of that use carbon steel barrels. They are harder to machine, but better product for the customer. You will however need to tighten the slide to frame fit on MOST bullseye guns or the new barrel work will be wasting your money. Hope this helps!