Fitted new trigger. Now issues.

I fitted a. Nighthawk Custom (Long) solid trigger into a Springfield Milspec. The top had to be lowered to fit into the frame. Afterwards though, it has a lot of side to side play. Rattles. It moves or shifts when you place your trigger finger on it. 

Any suggestions as to a better solid aluminum trigger? Or a way to fix this?

I use Harrison Custom triggers, but that being said you can spread out the rear of the trigger shoe by staking it.  Hold trigger shoe in vise with the bow straight up.  Stake each of the 4 corners of the shoe from the rear to "widen" the back of the shoe to take up the slop from side to side.

I know it was required on mine. I think the trigger area of my frame was a little out of spec

the old method of tightening up a trigger was to use a chisel to indent the top and bottom sides  to swage the trigger outward... it works

if you want a new trigger try the Greider triggers.. very well made and inexpensive..


opps, KC beat me to it

Greider makes a good trigger, makes them for many other companies too. Since I have been tinkering with Aluminum Bronze I made one for my 1911. Since Aluminum Bronze is a good bearing material I got bows from Greider and made Aluminum Bronze ends. Contacted a company that makes all kinds of special solders and fluxes I got the flux required to join the Aluminum Bronze and Steel bow. Worked great but to insure it will never come loose or move I inserted a bronze pin thru the bronze trigger and the tip of the bow prior to soldering. When making the trigger I made is a few thousandths wider than a new Greider trigger so I had some material to remove so as to be able to fit it to my frame. When I inserted it I found it fit without fitting, probably could have been a thousandth or 2 wider.
 When I tried it it worked better than expected. The bearing feature of the Al. Bronze seemed to make the pull smoother. I applied side pressure to see side pressure drag was helped and found that side pressure didn't seem to change the trigger pull.
 Showing to my friends at the club, all said my trigger will not meet weight limit but the trigger weights proved the trigger was legal!!!
 I have a few requests to make them so rather than remove it from my gun I add a photo later.

Froneck wrote:Greider makes a good trigger, makes them for many other companies too. Since I have been tinkering with Aluminum Bronze I made one for my 1911. Since Aluminum Bronze is a good bearing material I got bows from Greider and made Aluminum Bronze ends. Contacted a company that makes all kinds of special solders and fluxes I got the flux required to join the Aluminum Bronze and Steel bow. Worked great but to insure it will never come loose or move I inserted a bronze pin thru the bronze trigger and the tip of the bow prior to soldering. When making the trigger I made is a few thousandths wider than a new Greider trigger so I had some material to remove so as to be able to fit it to my frame. When I inserted it I found it fit without fitting, probably could have been a thousandth or 2 wider.
 When I tried it it worked better than expected. The bearing feature of the Al. Bronze seemed to make the pull smoother. I applied side pressure to see side pressure drag was helped and found that side pressure didn't seem to change the trigger pull.
 Showing to my friends at the club, all said my trigger will not meet weight limit but the trigger weights proved the trigger was legal!!!
 I have a few requests to make them so rather than remove it from my gun I add a photo later.

really spendy but what about a ball bearing trigger?
http://www.ccactions.com/BBTrig.html

Nice looking triggers! But I don't think they work as expected. Not sure if it was the same trigger but a friend of mine got a trigger with the ball on top and bottom. According to him it didn't seem to change anything. He eventually sold it to someone that liked the looks. I see nothing in the photo that addresses side pressure. From what I have seen drag is usually due to side pressure and why I think the shoe I make helps. Being that the shoe surface is polished and when the finger is pulled back it don't come straight back and moves in an arc. The polished slippery surface allows the finger to slide, lowering any side pressure. To add to the problem Aluminum Oxide the outer coating on aluminum that prevents rusting. Most don't think aluminum does not rust but is does, Iron forms iron oxide, but don't form a hard barrier like aluminum oxide that forms as a protective coating on aluminum stopping continuing oxidation. Scratch aluminum and will see the shiny un-oxidized metal but in a short time it too will oxidize. However Aluminum Oxide is very abrasive, they make grinding wheels with it! One of the important things a new shooter must learn is to have proper grip so that the trigger finger does not push the trigger sideways or for some with too much finger on the trigger pull it sideways.

Tim have you tried inserting a mag? most times side play is from the side bars not fitting in the frame groove right. there is a fine line between wide enough for a mag to not be touched when pulling the trigger and too wide that it drags in the frrame. When its right you can hold the frame pointing down with a mag inserted and the trigger should bounce up and down with your finger with no drag.