14-5 trigger too light - won't adjust

I've been shooting this for 2 years and it's the 1st time I've checked the trigger weight.
I adjusted the mainspring from light to tight and no matter where it is adjusted in single action the hammer drops at 2 1/4 lb (NRA weights not electric).  I dropped in another mainspring I had and got the same results and I even did the primer trick to increase spring pressure and still got 2 1/4 lbs.

I'm about to open it up what are the stock weights for the rebound spring, how many coils? 

I am ordering both stock & reduced power spring kits which will also give me 11lb-15lb rebound springs.  I'm hoping this will fix it and no one messed with the hammer/sear angles.
- Dave

THE FACTORY REBOUND SLIDE SPRING IS 18LBS. NUMBER OF COILS ARE UNKNOWN.
ALSO CHECK THE MAINSPRING SCREW. CHECK IT TO SEE IF IT'S BEEN SHORTENED.
JP

What weight are you trying to attain? isn't 2 1/4-2 1/2 pretty standard for a well done single action on a smith? 

Take JIMPGOV's advice. replace the rebound spring. I don't believe the mainspring contributes significantly to the S.A trigger pull...

james r chapman wrote:What weight are you trying to attain? isn't 2 1/4-2 1/2 pretty standard for a well done single action on a smith? 

Take JIMPGOV's advice. replace the rebound spring. I don't believe the mainspring contributes significantly to the S.A trigger pull...

It needs pick up 2 1/2 pounds to be legal for NRA matches.

These guys are all on the right track with the rebound spring.

If you are getting good DA pull and the gun is reliably setting of primers, leave the lightened mainspring in and just work with a slightly heavier rebound spring.

Set it up for 2.75 lb SA pull initially and the new rebound spring will settle in close to 2.5 lb being installed for a while and shot a bit.

Dave you still need 2 1/2 lbs in single action to pass the NRA requirements. A 1/4lb off could be where you are measuring on the trigger like maybe too close to the end of trigger or not holding gun vertical.
 I bet you are on the right track with the sear and hammer, with the sear having more negative geometry than neutral or positive, you would'nt think anyone would touch the hammer notch, but anything could be possible. Try the pushoff test and see if it passes.

chopper wrote:Dave you still need 2 1/2 lbs in single action to pass the NRA requirements. A 1/4lb off could be where you are measuring on the trigger like maybe too close to the end of trigger or not holding gun vertical.
 I bet you are on the right track with the sear and hammer, with the sear having more negative geometry than neutral or positive, you would'nt think anyone would touch the hammer notch, but anything could be possible. Try the pushoff test and see if it passes.

Gun is being held perfectly vertical, I use a cabinet on my bench top as a guide, it makes certain I am holding the gun vertical front to back and side to side.  It also allows me to very softly raise the gun.  Much softer than would be done at a match.  Weight is being placed as per NRA instructions.

Totally forgot about the push off test.  I cocked the hammer back and barely put any force on it and it dropped .  Then I checked it by trying to lift the NRA weight on the back of the hammer and it couldn't lift 3lbs.  I believe it should be 8-10lbs.  Looks like someone messed with the angles, or it is just wore out.  Opening it up tonight.
- Dave
ps this was my 1911 th post

Opened it up, it looks like the trigger was stoned - poorly.  The rebound spring was definitely cut/shortened, I can see a dremel cut off wheel mark on a remaining coil. 

I'm not going to mess around now trying to repair them, even if they can be, but I will save them.  I found a NIB original .500" target hammer and a .500" target trigger to replace exactly what I had.  I'm also going to install new original main & rebound springs.  Once I get everything assembled/fit I'll check for any rubbing and smooth/polish things out if needed.  Then test and if needed start tuning, I always like to start from stock before I begin tuning, in the long run it always seems to save time. 
- Dave

Sounds like your trigger was tuned by an "expert" I think your replacing the parts with NIB parts and going from there is the best approach.  Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

this book will keep you straight on the S&W revolvers

https://www.amazon.com/Revolver-Shop-Manual-Covers-Actions/dp/B000MRFUWY