What piece of gear, or process, has made biggest difference in your reloading?

Wanted to find out if there is one piece of gear that has made all the difference?  Or is it a particular way of doing something that helped with the quality of your reloading?  Maybe there wasn't anything at all ... but I'm just curious.

I am too cluttered and crowded with all my shoot stuff, so enough space to organize a good efficient work area is most important to me. 

I need to spring clean like Len.

In my opinion one of the most important pieces of gear is a powder check die, especially to shooters new to reloading. This is the main reason I recommend 5 stage reloaders for those new to reloading. They have saved me from several squibs on my Hornady LNL's usually from a powder measure issue, never had it catch a double.

The biggest Time saver when loading in progressives is having a big number of primer tubes.  10 is ok 20 or more is even better.  Load them up while watching TV.  If you’re not loading HBWC, also get a tube style bullet feeder.  Get extra tubes.  Again enough to hold 1000 bullets.  Run a powder check.  A case feeder really speeds it up too.

To make accurate ammo: Dial or electronic caliper, electric powder scale, carbide "Match" dies with micrometer seater, Lee carbide factory crimp die, a stepped powder funnel "PTU"*, case gauge, loading log book.

To speed things up: case feeder, bullet feeder, 10-20 primer tubes & a primer tube filler (Dillon RF100) 
- Dave
assuming you are using quality components.

* this allows you to get by with minimal flair on the case to seat the bullet properly.

SIGcurious wrote:Wanted to find out if there is one piece of gear that has made all the difference?  Or is it a particular way of doing something that helped with the quality of your reloading?  Maybe there wasn't anything at all ... but I'm just curious.

I've got an RCBS Pro 2000 press, and as was suggested in another forum, the single thing that made the biggest difference in my life was the "auto index kit".  Things that I was concerned about before are no longer relevant.  There is no longer an issue of remembering where things were, if I get interrupted. 

I completely agree about the LockOut die - I bought two of them, one in my die holder for 45 and another for 38 Special.  I'm still just as concerned that the proper powder goes into each case, but it's nice to have a "fail-safe" device.  

The two biggest concerns I had about reloading were primer tubes and getting the correct amount of powder.  The Pro 2000 eliminates the first concern completely (no tubes) and with Bullseye powder, it keeps the range of loads within 0.1 grains.  I'd like to get way ahead in my reloading, but it seems like each time I'm going to the range, I load up enough for the next session.

To me the biggest difference was upgrade from an old Lee Pro1000 press. After years of struggling with it and trying to make it work reliably I decided to bite the bullet (yes, one of those ruined by Lee misaligned shell plate ) and got me a brand spanking new Dillon XL650 with all the extras (case feeder, extra toolhead, powder measures, conversion kits, etc). It works like a well oiled machine (that it is), and my ammo is very consistent and shoots better than I do
I couldn't justify spending $360 on a primer tube filter though, but I got one of those cheap Frankford Arsenal Vibra Prime, that looks like a plastic training pistol. It's not perfect, but with some tuning and tweaking it works. An added benefit is that you can practice your trigger control fundamentals while filling primer tubes ))

Greetings,

For me, it is testing my ammo.

When I get good (small) consistent groups, I begin to have confidence in my reloading technique.

Cheers,

Dave

I can write multi-page essay about my close to dozen years of reloading struggles, and provide you with list of the "things" longer that restaurant's menu.  However to make it short and sweet, the most important piece of gear for your reloading is your own head!  Anyone and everyone can pull lever of single stage or progressive press.  However unless you can evaluate results through testing ( +1 to Dave / fc60), and understand what adjustments are necessary (+1,2,3.. to dronning, wobbley, javaduke and others) to achieve results you are after, there is no a single piece of gear that you can consider a most important or panacea for all your reloading issues.  Sorry I could not be a better help.
AP

One of the things we used to preach, was to get a single stage press first and learn the basics, before you move to a progressive press.  I've seen posts on other forums where someone is having multiple problems because their first purchase was a Dillon, RCBS, you-name-it, progressive press.

That's how I started years ago and I think it made a difference.  When moving to a progressive, I was lucky enough to score a couple Star Machine Works presses.  They may be "old school" since they have been around since before WW II, but they are made of steel and brass and not questionable metal and plastic.  They produce consistent reloads once set up correctly and properly maintained.

cdrt wrote:One of the things we used to preach, was to get a single stage press first and learn the basics, before you move to a progressive press.........

I completely, totally, agree with what you wrote, but "my world" seems to have changed around me.   In the 1970's I bought a RCBS Big Max from a friend, who taught me how to use it.  It meant spending hours and hours reloading, but I thought that was just part of the game.  That's how it was done.

A few years ago, I bought a progressive RCBS, set it up slowly as I figured out what it did, and for the first couple of months, I just used it as a single stage press, sort of - I just loaded one round at a time, and tried to get a feel for what was happening at each station. It took forever before I started doing two rounds at a time, and only when everything seemed to be going smoothly, did I try five at a time.  Old habits die slowly - I bought new carbide dies for the press, but still did (and do now) the lubricating of all my cases on my old RCBS lube pad, using their case lube.  I figured (and still do) it couldn't hurt.  My biggest scare was a double-load or a squib, so I bought both the lock-out die and the auto-index kit for my press.  For the most part, things were going smoothly, but for some issues that were eventually solved by RCBS sending me some replacement parts.


Then a relative bought one of the small inexpensive Dillon presses.  In his mind, he was going to immediately start churning out ammo at a pretty high rate, and he certainly didn't like my idea of telling him to look inside each and every shell before he added a bullet.  It didn't help any that the primer feed didn't work properly, and my suggestion of a hand primer tool may have made him safer, but he wasn't too pleased.  I eventually stopped helping him, as I saw any number of accidents just waiting to happen.  I hate to say this, but I "blame" all of the issues on the simple little catalog he got in the mail every so often, showing. him how simple and easy reloading was, and making him think he was going to start churning out loaded ammo almost immediately.  

Assuming it's even possible, I would like him to have received an instruction sheet on how to properly load ONE round of ammunition.  Put ONE primer in the tube.  Load ONE empty shell case into the press.  Weigh the case both before and after the powder was loaded.  Understand what is happening at every station.  Repeat this over and over, until one is able to do it in their sleep.


In my silly imagination, all the instruction books for progressive presses should have as they first page "learn the basics before you start using your new reloading machine as a progressive press".  The box should also include a full page on SAFETY CONCERNS that a new reloader should be aware of, labeled READ THIS FIRST, starting with don't even use the new device until you are wearing a good pair of safety glasses.    .....etc.....

Sorry if this is off-topic.....

"Sorry if this is off-topic"
Not really.  It just points to what I said earlier.  Reloading really requires learning the basics first and yes, it really, really helps if you have some knowledgeable person help get you started, before tackling a progressive press.

If single stage press - here is how I have sped up the process significantly.  Speeding up the volume production lets me spend more time concentrating on the setup parameters.
1) better spent primer catcher
2) case kicker
3) Gladiator track and bins on bench front edge
4) home made dams for the Gladiator bins
5) Hornady QR bushings
6) using empty OEM plastic ammo trays for power dispensing (works fater than universal loading trays)
7) bench primer

For the quality question;
1) quality dies
2) differentiating expander  dies for .451 and .452 projectiles
3) sorting any rounds that "feel different" in the press into a practice container
4) testing first round in barrel
5) keeping detailed build sheet with each batch as it moves through my batch process

Sorry I couldn't keep it down to one.

I think for me it was when I became familiar enough to sense immediately when there was an issue, such as a missed or crooked primer or crooked bullet.  Perhaps not every time, but no longer will I load a bunch with no primer because the loading tube jammed.

1ST.  DILLION RL1050
2ND. POWDER DROP FROM MR BULLET FEEDER
3RD. SHOCKBOTTLE 100RD CASE GAGE

JIMPGOV wrote:
5RD. SHOCKBOTTLE 100RD CASE GAGE

Dang those are pretty neat, never seen them before.

zanemoseley wrote:

JIMPGOV wrote:
5RD. SHOCKBOTTLE 100RD CASE GAGE

Dang those are pretty neat, never seen them before.

Quality piece but I still cant load directly from the case gauge to the ammo box !

YES YOU CAN. IF YOU HAVE THE CORRECT BRAND. YES THEY WILL BE UPSIDE DOWN BUT I JUST PUT THEM INTO ANOTHER EMPTY BOX THAN. I FORGET WHAT BRAND IT IS. IT SAYS WHAT BRAND ALIGN UP CORRECTLY ON THE WEB SITE. JP

I'll be honest I have a case gauge for my 45 but never use it any more. My ammo is consistent enough that I never have feeding/chambering issues, and this is with a custom fit Kart barrel.

zanemoseley wrote:

JIMPGOV wrote:
5RD. SHOCKBOTTLE 100RD CASE GAGE

Dang those are pretty neat, never seen them before.

I've had mine for a year or so.  I like how it catches heavy smears of lube on the case without having to visually inspect 100% of rounds.

I took the top off an mtm case.  I put the Shockbottle on top of the lower half and drop the rounds in.   If everything is ok I move the divided section on top of the primer end and tip over. then I put any brand of case over the full half case and tip it over.   Bob's yer uncle! 

If you don't mind cleaning up a couple holes, order the Blemish version and save a few dollars.

After reloading for 40+ years the Dillon 1050 was the biggest single improvement I ever made.

So humor me. What's so special about a 1050. I realize it's well built but for $2k it should do my dishes too. Seems like extreme overkill, most of us probably don't shoot much more than 5,000 rounds of reloads a year, even heavy shooters probably don't exceed 10,000. A decent progressive like a Hornady LNL AP or Dillon 650 should easily do 500 rounds an hour, so 10-20 hours of reloading to keep you in ammo all year.

The proper expander plug, or a minimal sizing die...

What's so special about a 1050....

Fast, easy, reliable, accurate...  I have three 550s, three SDBs, and RCBS Rockchucker on my loading bench too.  They are all nice and load good stuff.  The 1050 requires less hands on from the loader.  Deals with crimped primer pockets.  Can't be half stroked...

THE MOST CONSISTENT PRIMING. IT PRIMES ON THE DOWN STROKE. PRESS IS SET UP SO WHEN THE HANDLE REACHES THE BOTTOM OF THE ARCH OF MOVEMENT IT STOPS ON THE TABLE EDGE. CONSISTENCY IS THE KEY TO ACCURACY . WE ALL CAN AGREE ON THAT. THE 1050 ALSO ALLOWS YOU TO ADJUST PRIMER SEATING DEPTH WITH AN ALLEN SCREW. HIGH PRIMERS ARE VIRTUALLY ELIMINATED. WITH THE ADDITIONAL STATIONS IT ALLOWS YOU TO HAVE A POWDER CHECK, INDEPENDENT SEATING DIE AND INDEPENDENT CRIMPING DIE. IF YOU MAKE GOOD AMMO ON ANOTHER PRESS FINE. THE RL1050 HAS THE BEST OF ALL THINGS AND LACKS NOTHING. JP