Cracked Marvel Slide

Doing my final pre-match inspection before a 2700 tomorrow and saw this. No idea how long it had been there, the whole setup is second hand. I DID notice the dinged slide stop notch when I bought it.

Basic question is: how many rounds can I get through it before I need to shelve it (aka will it make it through the rest of the season)?

Second question is: who can I send it to for a quick turn around repair/replacement? 

Cheers

Frerking/Marvel supposedly welds and cleans them up. Cerakote finish afterwards.
Jon

I recently went through this. Frerking/Marvel offered a new slide exchange (with $$$) but I had to send in the old slide. I think it was about $150, assuming they could use some of the steel components from the old slide. In my case, some of the components needed to be changed. One item was because it was an old slide with the narrow extractor. Sad part was the cracked slide was a 6" and they no longer, or didn't have those a few months ago.

You can try a small "stop drill" hole at the end of the crack. Could last a whole season or fail tomorrow. But, your crack is short and I would try drilling it and think good thoughts!

Had to have developed over the course of the season... these pictures were taken in May and seem to indicate some stress but no crack.

I would personally find a local Tig welder to weld it.
I'm not a fan of the new ownership of Marvel's business model. I don't promote the Marvel's anymore. I do love my old longslide though.
Jon

Adminbot1911

Robert Garrett at Northern Virginia Gun Works in Springfield can tig weld. Whether or not he will do it is another matter. It may be worth a stop in. You'll likely speak to Sandy. If you don't know them, be sure to tell them that you are a competitive shooter, and military.

They have build many custom guns for mw over the years. Sandy, going back to the 70's. Tell Sandy, I said hello. Give them a shout. 703-644-6504 ~ Martin

might think about the Micro welding process.. Pullman Arms does a lot of firearms repair using that process.   much smaller and more controlled than std. Tig

https://pullmanarms.com/gun_smithing_services/

You might inquire and find out if the slides are made from 7075 aluminum which I remember.
Yes, 7075 is good for slides, but is alloyed with zinc which makes it un-weldable.
7075 melts before the 4043 or 5356 tig rod melts.
If someone is welding it - they are welding gods.

Wes Lorenz wrote:You might inquire and find out if the slides are made from 7075 aluminum which I remember.
Yes, 7075 is good for slides, but is alloyed with zinc which makes it un-weldable.
7075 melts before the 4043 or 5356 tig rod melts.
If someone is welding it - they are welding gods.

Fantastic info, hadn't even thought of that, thank you.

Allgoodhits wrote:I recently went through this. Frerking/Marvel offered a new slide exchange (with $$$) but I had to send in the old slide. I think it was about $150, assuming they could use some of the steel components from the old slide. In my case, some of the components needed to be changed. One item was because it was an old slide with the narrow extractor. Sad part was the cracked slide was a 6" and they no longer, or didn't have those a few months ago.

Ditto for me, and at about the same time frame. Same old extractor.
In my case, Sheila (from the old Marvel crew) noticed a crack starting @ Perry in either 2016 or 2017, can't remember exactly. It was so small I hadn't noticed it, but it was in the same spot and side.  It lasted a little over a year, the crack extended about another 1/8'' and then extended towards the rear of the slide. 
Andrew, When mine was about 1/2" longer than yours, as pictured, I finally sent it to Ferking.
Al

hate to say it but the current Marvel web site says the aluminum slide conversions are 7075... not sure if that was the same on the old ones, but....

I do remember something seeing a new process for welding 7075, but it very new and was not in general use.   I would take Olde Pilot's advice and drill a small crack stop hole at the end of the crack.. an old method that works for stopping a crack( at least for a while).

Stop drill the darn thing. If the crack propagates later, send to Ferking for a new slide.

Olde Pilot wrote:Stop drill the darn thing. If the crack propagates later, send to Ferking for a new slide.

I think this is what I will end up doing, cheers

Backup on order in case anything like this happens again!

jglenn21 wrote:hate to say it but the current Marvel web site says the aluminum slide conversions are 7075... not sure if that was the same on the old ones, but....

I do remember something seeing a new process for welding 7075, but it very new and was not in general use.   I would take Olde Pilot's advice and drill a small crack stop hole at the end of the crack.. an old method that works for stopping a crack( at least for a while).

Don't you mean... an olde method?  :laugh:

Good info, all of it, thank you.

I had one crack from the breechface to the firing pin stop.

Outthere wrote:I had one crack from the breechface to the firing pin stop.

Aluminum slide, I'm guessing.  Do you happen to have a picture?  I'd love to see that.

adminbot1911 wrote:

Outthere wrote:I had one crack from the breechface to the firing pin stop.

Aluminum slide, I'm guessing.  Do you happen to have a picture?  I'd love to see that.

Yep, aluminum. Marvel replaced it. I'll dig for the pics.

That was about 12 years ago. So no promise for the pics.

No sweat either way.

Update: Frerking gave a quote of 135 parts plus 35 labor plus shipping for the replacement slide.

Labor for what?
Jon

Jon Eulette wrote:Labor for what?
Jon

Moving the components from the old slide to the new one, as I understand.

You could do that yourself. Take you around 10 minutes at the most. There is one roll pin and 1 Torx head socket screw and that's it.
Jon

Jon Eulette wrote:You could do that yourself. Take you around 10 minutes at the most. There is one roll pin and 1 Torx head socket screw and that's it.
Jon

 
But then who could I complain to when I have malfunctions? 


Seriously though, can I just have them mail me a slide? What fitting is required?

No fitting required. Drop in parts; breech block (1 screw) and extractor (1 roll pin).
Jon