Revolver for DR?

First topic message reminder :

Hi!

So.....I've gotten recruited to shoot for a summer police revolver league.....

That said, I would also eventually like to shoot Distinguished Revolver, and have heard tell that many folks like the S&W Model 14. Not knowing much about revolver models, it seems like there are several types of Model 14. 

Can anyone recommend a specific one? New or used? If used, how can one tell if it's in good condition? Price range?


Thanks!

Val

valbern67 wrote:

tovaert wrote:I'd like to find a 14-6. Very rarely come up for sale, and then pretty pricey.

Me too, so since this is my thread, I get first dibs. 

Yes ma'am you do!

valbern67 wrote:

tovaert wrote:I'd like to find a 14-6. Very rarely come up for sale, and then pretty pricey.

Me too, so since this is my thread, I get first dibs. 

They are pricey but very nice.  This excellent example was purchased about 6 years ago, I think for under $500 shipped.  I might take $1600 for it...

LenV wrote:

Bren wrote:So any thoughts on whether a .38 shooting .38 spl. is likely to be more accurate than a .357 shooting .38 spl., due to the space between the bullet and rifling on a .357?

Think of it this way. You will never be able to shoot a bullet in a revolver that touches the rifling's. There is a forcing cone and cylinder gap to consider. Since even the longest bullet you can load in a .357 and still turn the cylinder is 3/8" (aprox) from the rifling's the extra 1/8" from a 38 Special case is lost in the equation. Surprisingly enough the most accurate lead bullet in my 27-2 is 148gr WC (my model 52 load) They are not legal for DR but prove the shorter case is not a problem.

Len

That makes sense.

I am just getting interested in trying DR and was looking at a nice 14-4 on GunBroker. It has a Bo-Mar full length target rib on top, would that be legal for the competition?

No.  It has to be “as it left the factory” with few and limited exceptions.

OK, that's what I was thinking, but wanted to be sure.

Thank you!

What is "pre-lock"?  What is a pinned barrel or pinned firing pin? Does this matter for our shooting purposes?

Thanks!

Val

Pre-lock refers to the absence of the (annoying) lock Smith&Wesson installed on their revolvers to comply with the nonsense from the “ninnies”

A pinned barrel refers to a cross pin S&W used on their revolvers up to the 1990s or so.  It really was redundant but, like most things, people bemoaned the change “they ain’t making them like they used to...”

A pinned firing pin is a firing pin that is in the frame as opposed to one that is on the hammer.  This change was very likely due to cost or a difference in manufacturing process.

Wobbley wrote:Pre-lock refers to the absence of the (annoying) lock Smith&Wesson installed on their revolvers to comply with the nonsense from the “ninnies”

A pinned barrel refers to a cross pin S&W used on their revolvers up to the 1990s or so.  It really was redundant but, like most things, people bemoaned the change “they ain’t making them like they used to...”

A pinned firing pin is a firing pin that is in the frame as opposed to one that is on the hammer.  This change was very likely due to cost or a difference in manufacturing process.

So, does any of this matter in terms of actually choosing a revolver for our target competition purposes?

Not a whit.

Total newbie question and I know I can pull up a rule book and look but are their any restrictions to the Revolver class?  It sounds like no wadcutters from previous posts. 

I have a 6" 686 I ran PPC with years ago that was tuned by Tom Kilhoffer in the safe. It would clean a 48 round course with a ton of X's back in the day lol. ( with 2.2 WST and 148 HBWC)

I am thinking that I take the heavy chunk of PPC steel weight off of the lug I may have a usable pistol for Revolver matches.  It is way too heavy for one handed shooting with that slab on there.

Dcforman wrote:Colt Officers Model Match. Faster twist. Sweet triggers.

+1

If you can get Sandy Garret to do the trigger it’s a very nice revolver.  Mine holds the x-ring with wal-mart Federal surprisingly.

Generally converting a true PPC gun back to original may be difficult if not impossible.
Barrel replacement, hammer, trigger easy.
Many times the frame is cut for an Aristocrat rib removing any chance of installing factory sights.

VNK971 wrote:The - numbers for the Model 14 are small engineering changes most shooters don't care about. The change from 14-2 to 14-3 was moving the little screw at the front of the rear sight leaf forward about 1/16". The 14-2 was made from 1961 to 1967 and the 14-3 from 1967 to 1977. The big change was the 14-5 with the full lug barrel. The K38 Masterpiece was numbered the 14 in 1957. This whole thing is mainly of interest to collectors. I have a 1954 K38, a 14 no dash, a 14-2, and 3 14-3s. You should be able to find a nice 14-3 or 14-4 for about $600.

Do you know the difference between 14-3 & 14-4 and 14-5 & 14-6? You mention the 14-3 and 14-5 but not the other two.

And is there an appreciable difference in weight between full and half lugs?

Thanks!

Thanks Jim that is very helpful and has answered many of my questions thanks.
                                                                                                                     Skid

Yes, thanks Jim!

Ok my 2 cents. I had a 14.2 bought it NOS cheap and sold it for 2x what I paid. I liked it but I did not love it too light for me. I would buy a 14.5 faster than you can say X. 

If money is no object MR 73 Target. 

If you are on a budget Model 19-2 every day, I love mine and it will put 10 wadcutters in the X ring at 25 yards. Under $800 you can find nice ones. The only thing is you have to check the cones because 125 gn .357 High velocity magnums crack the cones. They are really 38's that can shoot .357 for hunting or self defense. 

If you are on a budget Ruger Gp100 6 inch barrel is a very good gun too. It will need a little trigger work but they are fast and accurate and built like a brick house. 

I only shot one Python I liked and I was also very disappointed by the new 715 Dan Wessons. 

I do not know if they are DR legal but 627 6 inch is about the nicest pointing revolver I ever shot. S&W purists will say MIM guns are not good but the 627s I shot have nice triggers and smooth clock works.

The most accurate revolvers I have ever shot are the Colt OMM 38 and the old Colt 357 Models. 

Not DR but one S&W I shoot is exceptionally accurate.  That is my 1955 Model from 1955. 
I have an old S&W 38/44 Outdoorsman I think from 1956 to try out some day.  They don't make them like they used to.

I might try my S&W model 27, 5” just to be different.

valbern67 wrote:What is "pre-lock"?  What is a pinned barrel or pinned firing pin? Does this matter for our shooting purposes?

Thanks!

Val

Pin Barrel is better.

Model 27 6.5" barrel because they just feel right. N frames when a little weight is better.


25, 27, 29 and 57 only the 27 is legal for DR. The rest are legal for Reeves and Precision Pistol