Beginner Question #2 & 3

The lubricant on a SWC gets onto the outside of the loaded cartridge.  Does that need to be cleaned off?

While loading I get a small amount of power on the index dial and around it.  The Dillon manual says do not use a vacuum cleaner to clean that up.  What is typically used?

1) If the lube is really thick, I will wipe it off. If it's just a trace near the mouth, I will leave it be.  

2) I use a toothbrush or small paintbrush to wipe off spilled powder.  The reason for Dillon not recommending a vacuum is because of static electricity.  A vacuum hose will have static which could cause the powder to ignite.

I use "canned air" to gently blow debris away from the shellplate

An old shaving soap brush is a great tool to have around the shop. Try a bit more case bell to see if that helps with the lube issue. Best bet is to move to HiTec coated bullets
. Love them

jglenn21 wrote:An old shaving soap brush is a great tool to have around the shop. Try a bit more case bell to see if that helps with the lube issue.  Best bet is to move to HiTec coated bullets
. Love them

I use a pastry brush.  The Zero bullet lubes seem to be ok.  Some of the cheaper cast bullets are covered with wax, so watch for the wax gumming up both your seater die and your crimp die.  

I second the recommendation of the powder coated bullets.  I also suggest depriming your brass and then wet washing it in a separate process if you want to keep your press cleaner.

Any coated bullet will be better than fussing with the lead/wax lube situation.
Absolutely no leading in the barrel. There will be some carbon build up so they do need to be cleaned out after every 200 rounds or so.
Many coated bullets will have the wax ring groove in them. That's just the mold they have and they will load and shoot fine. It bothered me a little, so I found "DG Bullets" without the lube grooves and have been shooting them for several years now.

Texasref wrote: "DG Bullets" without the lube grooves and have been shooting them for several years now.

Thanks for the lead! Do you need to expand the cases more to seat them at all vs bare lead?

Often just a smidge

You should compare the non groove bullets verses the equivalent grooved bullet for accuracy...

If you are getting lube on the case, use more case mouth flare and ensure the bullet is square to the case.
Use a cosmetic brush, use your fingers/hand, use your breathe, use a rag or paper towel.
Personally, I found that NOT vacuuming up powder was as justified as NOT using a cell phone near a gas pump. Both come from someone making up an issue and the companies having to protect themselves by going along with the insanity. Only problem with a vacuum is if the bag/filter has a hole and the powder gets blown by the motor giving off sparks...
Note: I love coated bullets, but they aren't quite as accurate as commercial swaged lead bullet (at 12-13 BHN) or my own cast bullets (at 10-13 BHN).
So, I can say that non-grooved coated bullets I have tested are not quite as accurate as the non-lube groove wax lubricated commercial bullets or my own grooved and conventional lubricated cast bullets.
YMMV

I’d suggest checking out some of Mason Talbots and other Master/High Master competition targets posted online using Brazo’s Hi Tek Coated bullets. Then decide for yourself if coated bullets are accurate enough for your needs