Green loctite

So I have been battling an ejector problem. Custom gun, used, finally all issues squared away, but ejector was popping up (though it was on extremely tight). Tested and found there was no pin in place. Drilled a hole in ejector with Dawson reverse bit (awesome tool with good precision) + roll pin. Ejector popped up again. Close inspection revealed there was already a hole lower in the front leg, so shock was pushing up ejector and roll pin was giving way into second hole.  Now to mention - there is a minimal contact area on front leg, not like 1/4-1/3 of the leg you usually see on the pics. Solution = new ejector + green loctite + solid pin.  OpticsPlanet - crap service, did not ship for 3 weeks, new order in with Midway and shipped in 1 hour! Now to buy loctite. Easy...NO.  Turns out there are tons of configurations for green loctite. 290, 680, 609 just to name a few. Which one to get? I need strong hold but still serviceable in case of breakage. 

620 works well and you'll play hell getting it loose afterwards.

That's the thing. I need balance of hold vs ability to remove later if damaged.

you just have to apply a lot of heat..

Sounds like 680 is a better fit? Same as 620 maximum strength and NOT as resistant to heat. 620is rated 400F. I assume that if I go 680 then down the road I can just medium heat it to break down. Yeay or nay?

yep  but honestly can't remember the last time I had to replace an ejector..

I get it, but just trying to ensure that IF anything the frame is not bricked. Small parts need to remain small )))

I use a solid pin, not a roll pin, and forget the Loctite.  Never had a problem.

The extractor legs need to fit snugly in the frame holes.

If you look closely at the OP's picture of his ejector you'll see that apparently the retaining pin hole is off a bit and does not allow the pin to have much contact with the ejector foot.. locktite will work fine.. springfield uses it these days although I dont think they use a sleeve type locktite.

I don’t know how custom of a pistol you have, but you could always just get a new ejector and redrill it.  It depends on what you need, but they can be inexpensive.  If it is one that is a true gunsmithed fit to the frame and slide, it may be worth having the divots filled.

$10.50  Although I can’t quite tell from the crappy pic if it has been cut for the pin already.
https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/PI4507. OK, it is cheap, but is actually cheaper than a bottle of the fancy Loctite! 

Although this along the lines what I would probably get for a semi-custom fit and adjust as needed.

https://www.egwguns.com/extra-long-ejector-45-acp-blue

I had a glued ejector come unglued and decided I wasn’t gonna have it happen again, ever.

most/if not all types are removable with heat. Green is/or was a wicking type used on threaded parts. Loctite cures in the absence of air. Most any type can be removed with the heat applied with a hair dryer. Red would be my choice, but then again it's not my gun

I already have Ed Brown in the mail on its way. Yes, the pin contact is small, so roll pin may be moved a bit to let the ejector out, but a solid pin shoud do the trick. Loctite is icing on the cake for assurance. Best remedy would be to enlarge cross pin hole from usual 1/16 to the 2011 spec of 3/32. This would enlarge the contact area and capture front leg for sure.  However, I do not know anyone with skills to do it in NJ, so will try easier solution first.

After the amount of time I spent removing simple rail screws due to someone's happy abundance of red loctite I refuse to use it.

I know that Loctite 680 will retain replacement 9MM barrel cones.  A heat gun will break it loose.

Something tells me we need a sticky on loctite as it applies to threaded and press fit applications.

I have a bottle of 680 but have not used it yet. I have been using Black Max on ejectors and plunger tubes with no failures.

Green is OK for terminal screws on electric circuits. Not for this job. Blue can be “broken loose” with hand tools.  Personally, I would go with RED.  Heat guns are OK. However the best way is a soldering gun.  The old Wellers work well.  I used that on scope Mounts.  Worked great on aluminum with steel screws.  OPPS, a SS Mount will take a whole lot more heat.  Had to use a pencill torch. I preheated the screws with a 150 watt gun.  Then heated the Mount. I think the RED will do the trick.

680 green and 620 look like specific for press fit applications. 
Again, I have very bad experience with red that had to be torched a lot and stripped screw anyway. Weller did absolutely nothing to losen it. 
I assume losenng ejector with red would be even worse. I will make a bold statement here that I personally believe in - there is no reason, ever, to use red loctite on 1911.

You can spend a day researching all the locktite products. Just check the loctite or Henkel websites for usage charts.

I do use red locktite on a 1911. The plunger tube feet even though i stake them.  Lots of folks never use purple locktite when they should..put blue on a small set screw and you'll regret it......Vibra-tite makes some good products also. Their VC3 product is a multi use thread product..

A good thread on the types of locktite

https://www.1911forum.com/threads/loctite.478623/

Green 620 is really strong stuff.  I use it to hold barrel liners in place.  Never had one shoot loose.

I've gotten the front leg out of a SA that sheared off. Took me a while, started off with a soldering iron (big old electric, wattage unknown) that didn't work. Finally got one of those crackhead torches and warmed it with the frame in a vice as sort of a heat sink. Got a little smoke then rapped it on a soft bench block and it popped out.
Fit an oversize ejector best I could and have yet to drill and pin or glue it, so far it's worked well. Just remember it may fall out with the slide off.