Kroil and proper use

I am expecting to get a can of Kroil today. I have done a search for Kroil and I do not see a specific technique of its use. I have read about plugging the barrel and filling it with Kroil and letting it sit overnight. That is where the advice pretty much stops.

Best method in my mind is to drain the Kroil, then use a new brush then follow up with dry patches.

Will the drained Kroil be darkened by the lead? Should I expect the patches to have visible lead particles?

When using Kroil as a barrel cleaner, no it won't discolor significantly. What it's doing is creeping under the lead, helping release it when brushing. You might see particles, but the best inspection would be via borescope. I picked up a nice pistol-length USB one for short money, they're getting quite cheap.

Plugging the barrel against Kroil can be a challenge, it gets past the slightest gap. My best result has been with a fresh rubber stopper, inserted at the chamber end.

-> https://teslong.com/products/teslong-pistol-borescope-10inch-new-release

-TT- wrote:Plugging the barrel against Kroil can be a challenge, it gets past the slightest gap. My best result has been with a fresh rubber stopper, inserted at the chamber end.

I have got the plugs, but one would think that plugging the barrel end would allow for the Kroil to get to the entire chambers full length.

Plugging the chamber end might prevent the Kroil getting to the the very entrance edge of the chamber.

Will consider doing both techniques on different pistol barrels and see what happens.

Thanks

The Kroil immediately got past the rifling when I plugged at the muzzle. Try it with a small amount and see.

-TT- wrote:The Kroil immediately got past the rifling when I plugged at the muzzle. Try it with a small amount and see.

Hmmm ...I did not think about the rifling causing a leak. Nice tip Thanks!

You DO NOT need to plug the barrel when using Kroil.  Just saturate a patch to dripping and push it through ONCE.  Let it sit for an hour, then brush.

That's pretty much true, but I plugged the end so I could put in a good squirt, then put a finger over the muzzle to swash it back and forth. Then stood it on end to soak and repeat. I tried the single-pass method with less success, and settled on using the plug-and-soak. In my .22 barrel, most of the leading was just past the chamber where the forcing cone taper showed some roughness that really hung on to the lead.

-TT- wrote:That's pretty much true, but I plugged the end so I could put in a good squirt, then put a finger over the muzzle to swash it back and forth. Then stood it on end to soak and repeat. I tried the single-pass method with less success, and settled on using the plug-and-soak. In my .22 barrel, most of the leading was just past the chamber where the forcing cone taper showed some roughness that really hung on to the lead.

So I do not need to fill the barrel with Kroil and let it soak overnight. My reason to go to the Kroil method is because of issues with FTEx, due to maybe excessive leading at the chamber. Perhaps the whole barrel might benefit with the plug, fill, and soak method.

You can soak it all you want, won't hurt a thing. What caliber is this? Leading in the chamber itself isn't typically much of an issue, but every little bit hurts. You'd need a scope to survey the whole length, in any case Kroil will loosen everything.

-TT- wrote:You can soak it all you want, won't hurt a thing. What caliber is this? Leading in the chamber itself isn't typically much of an issue, but every little bit hurts. You'd need a scope to survey the whole length, in any case Kroil will loosen everything.

Both barrels getting Kroil treatments are .22LR. Both are for M41s. One is OEM and the other is a Clark. Both have mixed results in the plunk test. Same ammos in Buckmark 100% pass the plunk test, thus the going to the Kroil.

Just took delivery of a test brick of Eley Club also tested with same results, Mixed and 100% pass.

Kroil will remove bluing if you let it sit too long (like days, weeks).

put a finger cot over the muzzle end.

Thin Man wrote:Kroil will remove bluing if you let it sit too long (like days, weeks).

Am only planning at most overnight. Thanks for the warning and posting it for all

I had almost no luck with using Kroil to remove lead from a 1911 barrel even soaking for a day or two. Had to step up to a stronger lead and bore cleaner. After I cut out the swaged bullets and went back to cast my problems went away.

zanemoseley wrote:I had almost no luck with using Kroil to remove lead from a 1911 barrel even soaking for a day or two. Had to step up to a stronger lead and bore cleaner. After I cut out the swaged bullets and went back to cast my problems went away.

Zane,

What did you end up using until going to cast bullets?

I was trying the Magnus HPSWC swaged bullet, apparently it didn't get along with my barrel, I have to push them fairly fast due to a tight custom pistol and a heavy 9000SC. My buddy really likes them but doesn't shoot them as fast.

zanemoseley wrote:I was trying the Magnus HPSWC swaged bullet, apparently it didn't get along with my barrel, I have to push them fairly fast due to a tight custom pistol and a heavy 9000SC. My buddy really likes them but doesn't shoot them as fast.

Zane

Oh I meant as a lead remover. Sorry I was not more specific.

I use a butter tub and just put the lid back on when done.
Also soak suppressor baffles in the same tub

bmize1 wrote:I use a butter tub and just put the lid back on when done.
Also soak suppressor baffles in the same tub

I do not think I would want to have a tub of Kroil just hanging around when not in use. I have the rubber plugs now, just waiting for the Kroil to arrive. If I had a bunch of items to soak, I would consider it. It is a good idea though.

xman - if you want a suggestion for regular .22 barrel maintenance, mine is Boretech Rimfire Blend. It's not strictly a lead remover, but it does a very good job on rimfire ammo deposits when used as directed. You dribble it down the barrel, let it soak a while, then brush it a few strokes, it will foam slightly. Cleans the barrel beautifully. I use it every couple thousand rounds, personally. Have not had to go to any extremes since.

I mix Kroll 50/50 with Hoppes as a bore cleaner for all my pistols. Works perfectly

-TT-

I will make note of the product for routine maintenance.  Thanks

jglenn21 wrote:I mix Kroll 50/50 with Hoppes as a bore cleaner for all my pistols. Works perfectly

I do have 2 quart bottle of Hoppes in my cabinet. Might give that a go after I do the full strength Kroil. Could use that as the routine maintenance mix.

Thanks

Sea Foam is a bit stronger cleaner then Kroil.  I had good results cleaning heavily leaded HS muzzle break with it (in combination with ultrasonic cleaning and brushing). Must be used with caution though.

AP

Kroil can poison you, be careful with it. 

Lead out cloth works well, it's like a thin leather.

I firebrush.

I am guessing that the reason your swaged bullets leaded was that the resized shell was too small. The expander plug wasn't big enough or full bullet length, or +p type brass.

A lot of brass is too thick at the bullet base location and that either crushes the base in or if it's hardcast, you get a case bulge that won't chamber.

Good luck