Red, Blue or no Loctite

I have a Rock River Wadcutter with the all steel Bullseye Rib. I find that it is too heavy for me with a red dot so I am replacing it with their all aluminum scope rail. Was told to use heat to loosen the rib screws because red Loctite was used. Before applying heat I tried to back them out with a regular 7/64" hex wrench and they all came out without too much effort.

So the question is, should I use red or blue Loctite or just torque the screws down with 20 inch pds on the new rib and be done with it?

Please advise.

Will

In my engineering days, we seldom installed threaded fasteners with any form of thread sealant like”Loctite”.  In a gun screw, the thread engagement is a lot less than what we were working with.  So use either and be sparing with applied torque.  20 inch pounds is about the limit for #6 screws.

In my experience no blue Loctite equals loose rail at some point. I temporarily mount rails on pistols I build and they do come loose sometimes when using nothing. 
Jon

I use blue loctite and torque to spec. I also yearly retorque all of my sight screws.

Blue LocTite has always worked well for me for all scope mountings and grip screws. Screws only loosen during matches!

I'm not sure that re-torqueing is a good idea.
Once the correct amount of torque is applied to a screw with the thread locker applied the 
only way to re-torque would be to over torque and break the seal the thread locker creates.
This is just my thoughts.

G

Gary, you are correct.  The only way to retorque a fastener is to loosen the fastener fully then retorque it from scratch.  Then you get into limits of the number of times you can torque a fastener.  Like most things “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”.

Thank you all for your input. Based on your suggestions, I guess blue Loctite and torquing to spec should do it.

Be careful though, torque specs are almost always for dry fasteners. Loctite, antiseize or oil can easily lead to overtorquing. Stay on the light side when loctiting.

If I'm worried about a mount coming loose, like a slide mount on a 1911 for sure, I'll use a high strength Loctite under the base, and a weak version on the screws. The screws can be removed easily, and the base will come off without much trouble either. Be forewarned however, the Loctite will leave a coat of goop on the slide that can be a problem to remove if you have intent to put it back to pristine condition.