Supermatic Trophy trigger problem

I picked up a Supermatic Model 107 that is cosmetically pristine and appeared to be mechanically OK.  However, when I fired it at the range the trigger wouldn't fully reset and had to be pushed forward slightly to fire the next round.  I did field strip it and lubed it before trying again with both CCI SV and Aguila Super Extra SV .22 ammo.  The problem still exists.  Before I do a more detailed takedown I thought perhaps someone here might have some insight on the probable cause of the malfunction.  When fired, the action cycles normally and chambers the next round fully using both of the magazines that I have.

Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.  I do have a Wolff Service Pack with all of the springs.

Thanks,

Jim

Your problem brought back a memory for me from about 1974.  I had the same problem with my new Supermatic Trophy.  It turns out that there was a burr in the frame cutout that the trigger fits into.  A small file took care of the problem.  In the case of my gun the problem only showed up when the gun was fired left handed.  It was 100% reliable when fired right handed.

Bruce

I have another 22LR pistol that has soft reset when shot left handed sometimes does not reset.. Swapped triggers and problem started. Will check for burr.

I read some articles on other forums that mentioned that the sear bar, PN 10911, occasionally had rough spots on the backside or grit had worked its way underneath it.  I'll do another takedown and remove the side plate , and the sear bar this time.  I guess I should go ahead and remove the trigger if I don't find anything wrong with the sear bar or the sear bar spring.  The plating on the trigger is somewhat pitted, so I may go ahead and replace it with a blued trigger at some point.  I'll let you folks know how that turns out.

Gritty trigger after years of no use is common in these, also sometimes the obvious is overlooked and the trigger stop is set too long. shorten him up if necessary and then re-try. My Citation sat for 30 years in a family safe and did the same thing. put a few drops of oil in trigger area and worked it for several minutes now its a dream. Just sold a NOS gold trigger too or could have helped with that.

I did lube the trigger area with Kroil oil and worked the trigger a good bit with no luck.  When the trigger is pulled back it returns, but sluggishly.  I'm going to do a more detailed strip this week to see what's what and will remove the trigger in the process.  Sorry that I missed your NOS trigger but will polish mine up a bit while it's out.

Here's a link to a pretty good video of a complete detailed strip if anyone is interested. Unfortunately, the full-sized option isn't available.
JE

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=444354

Before you do anything to the gun try this first. Take the grips off the gun (watch out for the little spring under the grip). Spray the crap out of it with Birchwood Casey Gun Blaster cleaner. Make sure to hit all the internal parts. Let it dry, then spray it with a light aerosol lubricant. Wipe off the excess and reassemble the gun. Test it with a snap cap in place. Never dry fire it. If it doesn't work at least you have a clean gun. Over the years these guns develop gunk inside them. I've had to do this twice in the 45 years I've had mine. My old gunsmith taught me this.

The V spring on the trigger bar is what resets the trigger.  Take the left grip and side plate off and make sure the bar moves freely, and the spring is functional. 
The bar to frame surfaces might be a hangup, the safe on the bar in front of the disconnect bump, the bar pin in the trigger, the bar working with the slide disconnect function, and the bars hook to the sear. 
Have the slide off, and ease the hammer to fired position.  Then hold everything in place and watch the trigger system work the sear.  Lastly, maybe the side plate interferes, but I have never seen that.

Thanks for the info Jack and Nopro.  I've done a more detailed strip and removed there trigger.  We'll see how it works after a thorough cleanup and reassembly.  I think that the problem is/was apparent in the photo of the trigger below.  Oddly, despite the rust on the trigger and a little on the trigger pin, there was no rust on the frame in that area.  Sorry for the fuzzy pic.

Original HS triggers are can look like they are corroded.  But I think it really is a flaking of the material from how they are made.  There is a name for it I can't recall.

Exfoliation corrosion.  Metal and post-treatment specific.  However, steels tend to not exfoliate just rusting away.