Requesting opinions on the S&W 686

Greetings all, if you have time, would you mind giving me your opinion on the S&W 686 revolver?

I have the opportunity to buy a new with a 6" barrel for $720 out the door. Would you say that is a fair price? I have heard these are accurate revolvers and that is what I want. I want a good accurate revolver that I might be able to shoot in a distinguished revolver match with, practice shooting with, and in general just have an accurate revolver. Thank you in advance for any info you can provide. Or if you live in Pennsylvania, if you have a similar revolver for sale, please let me know.

For reference, l came in 10th in the 2021 cmp revolver matches with a 4" 586 full lug, gun with no internal safety lock. Can't say the same for what you're looking at...there have been changes.

New revolvers are expensive these days

Yeah I heard about the internal locks. Unfortunately this revolver I'm looking at has one. Looks like all the new S&W revolvers have them. They can be removed or disabled, but it shouldn't be there in the first place. If one is going to lock a revolver to keep the kids from firing it, might as well just put a cable lock through the cylinder instead.

By the way, what do you all think about using Unique powder for reloading for this revolver? It's probably not the preferred brand, but it was the only powder I could find around here. It's a more forgiving powder for loading though, right? Since it takes more grains than the others. It's therefore more precisely measured. But I hear people complain about it shooting dirty, or being a "flamethrower" (exaggeration?). But I don't really care since I always clean immediately after shooting.

Run, don't walk and buy it. $720 is a steal. I have a 686 with 6" barrel and I paid $815 for it a couple of months ago. I did a Wilson trigger kit on mine and the SA is now at 2# and the DA is at a very smooth 7#. 
I load using Bullseye powder and 148gr HBWC for competition. I also have a 586 with 6" barrel that I bought in 1985 for $350.00. It has 10's of 1000's of rounds through it and is still going strong.
Don't worry about the IL...won't affect you at all.

Thanks for that info sir. What bullet do you recommend I buy (I'm going to be reloading)? I heard we don't have to use the 158 gr bullets anymore, and some people are using 148 grain?

CO1Mtn wrote:Thanks for that info sir. What bullet do you recommend I buy (I'm going to be reloading)? I heard we don't have to use the 158 gr bullets anymore, and some people are using 148 grain?

Better check to make sure on the bullet design and weight. I do not for sure, but could be confusion between NRA Precision Pistol DISTINGUISHED REVOLVER and the NEW CMP Service Revolver?

I know very little about CMP Service Revolver, but I am pretty sure NRA Distinguished Revolver rules suggest that it must be lead, (not jacketed) and it must be RN or SWC. and it must be 158 gr. Personally, I think the rule does not specify that as written, but the interpretation has been as stated.

686 and 586 are good guns. I don't like the Baughman front sight and the red insert and white outline rear blade. You likely already know this, but a Model 14, especially if you can find one with full underlug will likely have a Patridge front sight and standard rear blade. IMO a better choice.

CO1Mtn wrote:Thanks for that info sir. What bullet do you recommend I buy (I'm going to be reloading)? I heard we don't have to use the 158 gr bullets anymore, and some people are using 148 grain?

I shoot bullseye and use 148gr HBWC. I use what I can get, Precision Delta, Hornady, Speer, whatever is available. I cannot tell a difference between the 3 in terms of accuracy. 158gr would be good for action shooting where you need a higher power factor.

My 686 and 586 both shot great with any and all factory 38 Special 158 lead round nose.  My reloads pretty much sucked in both of them and the 158 SWC being the worst.
Went distinguished revolver with a 686 and Magtec 158 lead round nose.

NRA DR matches 158 gr swc or rn projectile, CMP Service Revolver EIC is any safe ammo. Figure out which matches make most sense for you and shoot what fits the rules.

I have a 586 that works well for me, but you may possibly do better with a slightly different gun (14, 19; colt, ect.) The approach for revolver is different than that of a 1911, grip and trigger parameters are different.

What "dash number" is the 686 ?

This might be helpful:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/423068-how-can-i-tell-if-i-have-mim-parts-my-686-a.html

An expert on S&W repairs told me that some problems on my S&W Model 17-5 were because S&W at that time were not making guns at the same level of quality as in years past.  Had I realized that, I would not have bought this gun.  I don't know if any of this applies to a 686.
 
Which 686 are you considering:
Do you know the "dash number"?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smith_%26_Wesson_Model_686

It's a 686-6.

That means it's from 2001 and has an internal lock.

Maybe this is useful reading:
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/best-years-for-a-686.622562/

If I knew then, what I know now, I'd never have bought my Model 17-5.  I found a much earlier one, with all the "target" options, but the store messed up on the sale, and shipped the wrong gun to my FFL.  Too late to correct things, so it went back.  I'm still shooting the 17-5, and it works well despite the "problems" we've identified.

That's good knowledge to have, Mike. Thank you. I noticed Simpson Ltd. has some revolvers, so I am going to peruse their site and try to find an old one if I can. Meanwhile, the one for $720 is still available. I have some options.

Look at this beauty!

41-1

I have a fairly recent production model 67 (K-frame 38 special, 4" barrel). lots of mim parts and the internal lock. even with all that, it is very capable, producing 24-shot groups under 1.5" at 25 yards from a Ransom Rest with ammo it likes. 

So, don't think the mim parts or the IL mean it can't be accurate.

Good gun, I prefer K frames with a pinned barrel 

I have a m19 and love it got mine for 500

720 is very fair, make sure there is no rust under the grips and check the forcing cone for cracks. 

Despite the MIM Parts, I shot a 627 and I thought it was the best pointing revolver I ever shot.

New Smiths are good guns the old ones were just works of art