EGW oversized Firing Pin Stop Plate

Anyone have experience, I just fitted one and I think its a good idea. 

So far I do not know if its me , but there was a marked accuracy improvement and no frame slap. 

I bought 2 and on this one I broke the bottom edge of the plate and stoned a slight radius. If that necessary? 

So far , I think there is marked improvement in accuracy and recoil flip. However, I am getting a little fail to feed , round goes in about 7/8 of the way but does not chamber using a #11 spring and 4.0 VN 210 and 185 LSWC. 

It could be a dirty chamber or I need to go 1 100th higher on powder.

Did you get the square bottomed one, or the standard radius cut one?

Blazin wrote:Did you get the square bottomed one, or the standard radius cut one?

Square one and rounded the lower edge that interfaces with the hammer. So I am wondering as got 2 if rounding that edge is necessary.

You can use the radius size to tune how the slide and hammer interact.
No radius will delay the movement to the rear & offer more resistance.
As you relieve the edge with a radius it changes how much work the slide has to do to start cocking the hammer.

Everything effects everything, and everything needs to be in balance.

The amount of energy that is expended by the slide to cock the hammer during firing is affected by many things:
 - Mainspring weight - Std is 23#.  Most of us use 18-20# on wad guns
 - slide weight - what kind of setup do you have? A slide-mounted dot, frame-mounted dot, RMR, etc?
 - That firing pin stop normally gets radiused so that it acts higher-up on the hammer as it is rotating downward, thus increasing the moment (lever length) which is compressing the mainspring.

Absent of any other changes in ammo or recoil spring, the energy being used by the slide to cock the hammer has to increase to push the hammer hard enough to compress the mainspring when that radius isn't as generous.  Is the slide locking back on last round?  If so, is the slide stop fully seated in the groove in the slide?  If not, your slide is being slowed to the point the recoil spring doesn't have enough energy to fully overcome the forces required to strip and fully chamber the new round.

Since you replaced the firing pin stop, it may have affected the way the extractor is fit, so your failure to feed may be caused by a slight change in the extractor tension. A few things to check - first, remove the barrel, clean your chamber and do the plunk test. Do the rounds drop into the chamber freely? Do they fall out under their own weight when you flip the barrel over?
Second, check the extractor tension and its position, well, you know the drill  PM me if you need more details

javaduke wrote:Since you replaced the firing pin stop, it may have affected the way the extractor is fit, so your failure to feed may be caused by a slight change in the extractor tension. A few things to check - first, remove the barrel, clean your chamber and do the plunk test. Do the rounds drop into the chamber freely? Do they fall out under their own weight when you flip the barrel over?
Second, check the extractor tension and its position, well, you know the drill  PM me if you need more details

Thanks I think I am good on the tension , gun is ejecting perfect I think the shape of the stop is just slowing up the slide a little bit. Only doing it infrequently 1 in 20 at most.

That's one too much. Pull it and add a radius similar to stock stops..

jglenn21 wrote:That's one too much.  Pull it and add a radius similar to stock stops..

Will do , pretty amazing less flip then my 22lrs and 38 SPL.

Well, maybe you don't have to change the radius. There are 3 things at play here. Upon ignition slide is trying to move back, but is being retarded by mainspring via hammer that is trying to always push hammer to vertical position, and recoil spring that is always trying to bring slide back to locked position. You added contour of the stop to the equation, so something needs to be subtracted from the equation. Sounds like recoil spring may be the best piece of the puzzle, since it will allow you for still less felt recoil. Tinker to get the recoil spring weigh down to where operation is good and most importantly next round strips and fully chambers. 

Tripscape wrote:Well, maybe you don't have to change the radius. There are 3 things at play here. Upon ignition slide is trying to move back, but is being retarded by mainspring via hammer that is trying to always push hammer to vertical position, and recoil spring that is always trying to bring slide back to locked position. You added contour of the stop to the equation, so something needs to be subtracted from the equation. Sounds like recoil spring may be the best piece of the puzzle, since it will allow you for still less felt recoil. Tinker to get the recoil spring weigh down to where operation is good and most importantly next round strips and fully chambers. 

Truth be told , 4.0 VN 310 with this set up feels like 3.5 gn. I took a few more passes with the Medium Stone and then polished it up, maybe that is all it needs. I would rather go up in powder, clip a main spring coil, or get a #18 main spring.  I would rather run a #11 than a #10. 

I think I am running a #20 in this one. 

I will bring a #10 tomorrow and test. 

This thing is like magic if I can make it run 100%