C&S Drop in trigger kit

I bought the kit here    trigger kit    it all went together with no problem, all except I cant figure out where the so called "sear spring" goes. I thought the sear sring was one of the fingers of the main spring. Its the coiled spring in the link. I'm putting it in an older Springfield Mil-Spec, (70s series).

I went to several disassmbly websites, and none address this one. I have dial-up internet, so I cant do Youtube or anything with large pics.
Thanks, Ken

You are correct the sear spring flat spring the left leg is the sear leg, the center is the disconnector, the right is the grip safety.  The coiled spring in the picture in your link is your mainspring.  It's the spring that goes into the mainspring housing and what pushes against the hammer strut.

Many drop in kits still need to be fitted properly and you could possibly end up with an unsafe gun.  Always do a proper function/safety check after replacing any parts on a 1911.

Thank you! I got it installed also. There were no instructions, but had two pages of safety checks in detail, which I did, all except for the two round dry firings. I'll do that as soon as the rain lets up.

The trigger measures a little light right now, maybe because I put some nickel anti-seize on the sear, that was recommended in another thread. Its about 3 1/2 pounds on my Lyman digital gauge, I wanted 4. The old stock trigger was 5 1/2.

With that hammer, 3.5lbs is what is legal anyway.  The difference in how easy/hard it is to shoot well is bigger than you think.

"official" weight sets are better to use for trigger weight.  Even if your lyman scale says 3.5 or 4 lbs, but it can't lift the official weight, it doesn't pass.

You can add weight to the trigger by bending the left finger of the leaf spring to add more tension to the trigger bow.

too move it up to 4lb, just bend the far left leg on the sear spring down a little.

Did you use any special "method" to put the nickel anti-freeze on the sear?

its really not needed and it wont last on there for long, oil is still the best, but to put it on, use a q-tip and put a little on all contact points.

Thank you, David. With the seeming lack of benefit from using the anti-seize I began to wonder if there was a specific method.... i.e. heat or whatever..

IMO, stuff like anti seize will only mask a problem and just for a short time. If the gun is right then a little oil is all it needs to work smoothly.

Just put a dab of anti-seize on the hammer hooks and on the tip of the sear.  It doesn't "fix" anything and keeps a little lubrication there.  Lasts way longer than oil and stays put.

David R is right.  The anti-seize is for guns that are "right".  Don't use anti-seize to fix a problem.

I use it so my hammer hooks and my sear don't wear.  It took me years to learn these triggers, and I want them to stay nice.