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Marvel Conversion Glitch

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Marvel Conversion Glitch Empty Marvel Conversion Glitch

Post by Rodger Barthlow Thu Dec 08, 2022 11:30 pm

My Marvel conversion I have on a DCM 1911 frame developed a glitch were the trigger feels like a two stage trigger. I think it is the disconnect but I'm not 100% sure. I pulled it down and can't find anything but replaced the trigger, sear spring and the problem seemed to go away till I put it on my 38 Super frame and the sear wouldn't release the hammer when the trigger was pulled with a empty chamber indicator dry fire plug in it. Take the chamber plug out and it would fire.
Back on the military frame and I would get a click and then a shoulder that I could squeeze thru, and it would fire. 
This is a first for me and the unit has worked flawlessly since it was new till now.
Rodger Barthlow
Rodger Barthlow

Posts : 392
Join date : 2013-08-10

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Post by Jon Eulette Thu Dec 08, 2022 11:49 pm

I would take just the marvel slide and put it on the DCM lower. Put rear of slide flush with the rear of lower. Note: some conversion slides are not flush when assembled on some lowers. So place rear of slide where it normally lines up.
Hammer cocked and disconnector in up position. Slowly move slide to the rear and see if you can feel it hitting the disconnector notch in the slide. If slide moves then makes contact good! If you have to move the slide forward a little and then rearward to feel contact that’s bad. What’s happening is the disconnector is making contact with slide while in battery. It pushes tip of disconnector to the rear and messes up the trigger pull. That’s where I would start.
Jon
Jon Eulette
Jon Eulette

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Join date : 2013-04-15
Location : Southern Kalifornia

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Post by Rodger Barthlow Thu Dec 08, 2022 11:53 pm

Your summation makes sense and I'll give it a try tomorrow.
Thanks for the response, Jon.
Rodger Barthlow
Rodger Barthlow

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Post by Rodger Barthlow Fri Dec 09, 2022 3:27 pm

After Disassembled I first inspected the disconnect and compared it to a new one. Lots of wear on the old one so I replaced it. I also found the sear leg of the trigger/sear spring was not making proper contact with the sear so it was also replaced. While I had it down that far I pulled the trigger and cleaned the trigger track in the frame. The trigger felt a little sloppy so it was replaced also. The hammer strut was a Ti metal and there was some play in it feeling a little short and a new strut replaced it.
While I had the hammer and sear out I dressed up the sear.
Disclaimer
This frame had been assembled with spare parts taken from other guns when parts were replaced so all the parts had been used except the disconnect which was original.

Removed the slide from the barrel and slid it on the frame feeling for anything unusual, everything felt good and normal no binding. Slide slid over the disconnect and could feel it go into the slot, cocked the hammer and repeated sliding the slide back and forward with same results.
Put the barrel and slide back together and mounted the assembly on the frame. Adjusted the new trigger for clearance and felt for drag on the sear.
Holding the trigger to the rear I worked the slide cocking the hammer and then releasing the trigger to feel the disconnect reset everything felt good and normal. put the dry fire plug and worked the slide to cock the hammer and dry fired to feel for anything unusual, no binding or drag was felt and repeated 10 more times with the same results. The only thing left is to get it to the range for some live fire testing.
This was originally put together about 10 years ago on a budget and held up fairly well till now so I guess it was time for new parts.
Rodger Barthlow
Rodger Barthlow

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Post by Rodger Barthlow Fri Dec 09, 2022 8:22 pm

Thanks Jon for pointing me in the right direction.
Rodger Barthlow
Rodger Barthlow

Posts : 392
Join date : 2013-08-10

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