Target Trigger & Hammer Install on K Frame

I've got a S&W Model 14 and Model 17 that both have service triggers and semi-target hammers.  I'd love to upgrade them to target triggers and hammers.  Both are dash 3 models.

I've read that fitting is almost always required to install these parts and that is not something I'm comfortable doing.  But is that something most gunsmiths can do or do I need to look for a gunsmith that has a particular credential (ie certified to work on S&Ws)?  Would sending them to the performance center even be worth considering?

This of course assumes I can acquire the correct parts.

I did plenty of trigger jobs on revolvers and only 2 instances where I had to fit the parts. One where the hammer was dimensionally thicker than the frame, so I had to grind it thinner on both sides to make it look proper.  That sucked.  Luckily it was a service hammer with no side protrusions, so ended up looking really nice. One where hammer DA sear nose was too short.  I did not want to buy another sear (like $10 off ebay) and so I filed down the shelf under the trigger sear that engages the DA ledge on the hammer.  That would be hard for novice. Else all others were direct drop-ins in terms of functionality.  I would say chances are low that you would even need to do anything. If you do, then it's really easy to see where the culprit is as all the parts are exposed.  Just follow the action.  I actually love working on revolvers for that exact reason.  You can make them super slick. 

I suggest you purchase parts and try to fit them.  It will be a good learning start. If unable then you can resell them back without losing much if any value. There is always demand for target triggers and hammers. 

Note that K, L and N frames all use same triggers.  Hammers differ due to frame sizes.  Buy a correct time period part.  Pre-K do not interchange with K, MIM do not interchange with non-MIM (I have not tried, but I read).  Model 17 hammer is absolutely different due to firing pin in the frame. 

You can try to buy fitted pair from the same pistol, but that does not guarantee that they will fit on your pistol.  Though as I said that does not happen often. 

When buying parts always check pictures for single action ledge on the hammer.  It has to be there with enough material, never polished and never rounded.  Has to be a perfect square ledge under magnificaiton. Otherwise there will be a hammer follow. 
When buying parts always check pictures for trigger sear edge.  Make sure not rounded off, which usually means it was incorrectly mucked with by previous owner.  That will create hammer follow. 

What is considered "normal"  - slight deficiencies in metal, looking like small chunks are missing.  DA sear on the hammer having some weird angles or being not square on the bottom.  
 
If fitting parts please remember: 
1) NEVER touch single action ledge on the hammer.  NEVER.
2) Parts are case hardened, so any part that is an engaging surface and has to stay sharp can only be filed/stoned on one side.  This way the other side is still hardened and supports the angle structure. 
3) Most of the angles have their purpose as the action is like a 15 step mechanism (I made up the number, but you understand).  I don't think that all of these parts were hand fitted to each revolver.  I think fitting was done when and as needed.  So not all all angles are necessary to stay precise as the factory intended.  That's where good revolver gunsmithing came in - how to improve the action for THIS specific revolver.  It is not as hard as you think to make great improvement on the trigger.  It is, however, VERY hard to improve to a very tight lockup and super perfect timing.

mutley wrote:I've got a S&W Model 14 and Model 17 that both have service triggers and semi-target hammers.  I'd love to upgrade them to target triggers and hammers.  Both are dash 3 models.

I've read that fitting is almost always required to install these parts and that is not something I'm comfortable doing.  But is that something most gunsmiths can do or do I need to look for a gunsmith that has a particular credential (ie certified to work on S&Ws)?  Would sending them to the performance center even be worth considering?

This of course assumes I can acquire the correct parts.

If the parts are in good condition, they usually don't need fitting. Having the right screwdriver is a huge plus and not prying on the side plate to get it off is a must. If you are a careful person, have a good guide to the internals of the revolvers and don't have "ham hands" you may be able to do it yourself without damaging the revolvers. If you want an experienced S&W revolver smith to do it and live near southern Indiana, I can steer you to a guy. He does stay very busy. I would send it to him rather than the S&W Custom Shop. Actually, I have done it and recently put a Wilson Combat spring kit in a S&W model 18-3. I have done a lot of minor work to the guts of my S&W revolvers over the years, including changing out hammers and triggers. If I can do it...

Thanks guys!  I was under the impression some level of filing, grinding, sanding, etc would be required but if there is a high probability that won't be necessary, I'll definitely give swapping the parts out 1:1 a try.  I think I can manage that.  I've played with the interworking of other pistols and managed to get them back together   

Tripscape, you addressed a lot of the questions I also had around how to inspect parts on the market so thank you for that!  That was my next big area of concern.

No problem. If you need anything shoot me a pm. I can also facetime guide you through things. 

I agree on screwdriver part and taking plate off. Never pry. Never put too much tension on screws. If unable to losen a screw with moderate force then a) wd40 or thin oil on top of it b) put screwdriver on top of the screw and tap it with the hammer. That losens it up.

I hate buggering up screwheads so I bought a Brownell's Magnatip driver set a few years ago and it was well worth the money.  And yep, I rap the handle with a nylon hammer to get the side plate to pop off.  I actually find getting the side plate back on to be more difficult than getting it off.  I always worry I'm going to misalign it and in the process of getting it square... mar up the finish.

Popping sideplate is super easy with wooden handle of the hammer. But that's not your issue.

So put the hammer safety back on half way through its hole. Then hook the top piece on and lower the plate. Squeeze theplate with your fingers till it is 1/3  - 1/2 way on there. Then take a wooden or soft plastic/rubber butt screwdriver and hit the plate on there with the butt. Not nylon, no harder matetials. That may disturb the deep blue finish. Wood is great for that purpose. Screw in middle screw not all the way, rear not all the way, front not all the way. Then middle all the way to tighten the plate, then others. Do not over torque as it does nothing to the plate stability. You can actually leave them just ever so tight and plate will be fine.

Brownells sells very good stuff. I bought a set of Grace, hollow-ground screwdrivers a long, long time ago. A couple of them are ground especially for S&W revolvers. It's great to have a screwdriver that fits exactly into the screw slot!